Does any one know how to chage the Bose's amp out of the trunk. What to do with the wire harness. Should it plug right in to a new amp?

Your input would be greatly appreciated...
Peace

 

I doubt that it would plug into the new amp... What I did is simply cut off the wires that I needed off of the connector and added some plugs to it and connected it to my new amp...

 

How did you know what wires you would need?
What kind of plugs did you use?
Did you use the Bose head unit with it?
Is there anyway I can just add another amp in addition to the Bose amp?
Or can I add a Sub to the amp?
Thanx

 

Here's the wiring diagram: http://public.fotki.com/dustbuster4/stereoampwiring/

 

Thanx but do I have to change my Bose head unit?

 

Do you guys know if I would need a 2 channel Amp or a 4 Channel?

 

It all depends on what exactly you want to do...

If you want to add extra bass, you can get yourself a 1 or 2 CH AMP and connect 1 or 2 SUBs to it and tap into the LINE LEVEL output of your rear speakers.

If you want much better sound then get rid of your head unit, your BOSE amp, and speakers and get new equipment.

 

I completly forgot about that amp back there in the trunk...I wonder if it is still even there...After I did all the work and replaced everything I'm not sure if that got removed...

Does anyone know the specs on that amp??

 

here is what you need to do:

uninstall the amp in the trunk
run a power wire from the battery (at least 8 gauge, 4 is best)
use dustbusters diagram here and locate the remote wire and the speaker wires.

Now here is were the options come in.....

1. get a 4 channel amp with high level inputs and just use the leads from the stock deck to feed the amp. A sub can be added quite easily this way as well.

2. (recommened) Buy a new headunit and run two sets of RCA wires into the trunk to the amp. also an additional rca wire should be run for a sub in the future.Since most newer decks have a seperate output for a subwoofer, you can control the volume of the sub from inside the cabin of the car, not to mention x-overs and other things too. The sub will require an additional amp.

3. Buy a new headunit and run it on the stock amp.

btw, you can use a 2ch amp tp run all four speakers as well. You just wont have a fade adjustment. Not a big problem though when you have clean sound. And..if you get a aftermarket amp, plan on replacing your stock speakers relatively soon. I have seen worse stock speakers come in vehicles, but these wont last long if overpowered. Hope all this helps. pm me if you need more info.

 

dont want to get to tech. with it but if you run 4 speakers (plus 2 more for the tweets in our dash) on a 2 channel amp you drop the ohms even more which is basically saying you'll blow them faster and make them sound shittier then they already are...

Get a 4 channel for your mids and highs (your front and rear speakers)...Then either a 1 or 2 channel amp for subs if you have...

btw, hey LC...Glad to see I'm not the only one with broken gas needles...They make them shitty huh...

 

Only if you have a cheap cheesedick bestbuy amp. any real good amp can handle a load like that. I ran my ads 2ch on all 4 spkrs and i installed an xtant 2ch in my buddies car for all four spkrs. I would like to see someone try that with a sony! HA. But honestly, a 4 channel is the best if you have the money.

yeah my guages piss me off man. cheap crap!

 

The amp can hold dropping the ohms no problem...but the speakers is where it comes into play...You can play them at 8,4,2, or 1 ohms depending on how you wire them and if you get dual or single connection speakers...but that's getting to tech than we need to go...no need for all that...

Also, the price isn't that big of a difference for a 4 channel compared to a 2 channel is it?? I don't see that big of a difference...

Oh and Sony, YUCK...but just my opinion...lol

 

SONY = S omeday O nly N ot Y et

 

Sony makes some great products in the electronic world but anything car stereo wise is a shameful attempt in Sony's part...Great design's no doubt, everyone loves them but you only pay for the looks, not quality when it comes down to them...

But yea, I hope someday soon they will live up to their names...but until then we live with Alpine, JL Audio, Pioneer, Pheonix Gold, and MB Quarts...

And Rocksfords amps are great, until they combined with Fosgate...Now they are just above average...sorry if I missed any, my bad...

 

Eclipse, PPI, A/D/S/, Soundstream(old), Zapco, Clarion, Focal. Nakamitchi

 

I was only naming top of the line but those are good basics too...Zapco makes some good SQ amps but not power...Clarion's best product are their touch screens...As for the others, around basic in my opinion...

 

Well, you can get a 2 channel amp to drive your rear speakers, and use your HU to drive your front speakers... of course, not the BOSE HU, an aftermarket HU.

Or you can do like me, and get a 4CH amp to drive your front and rear speakers, and get a seperate amp for your SUBs.

 

dude all those brands i mentioned are waaaaaayyyy better then alpine/pioneer/fosgate/etc. Allthough i do very think highly of alpine. Eclipse and Soundstream is definately not basic stuff.

 

if you want good sound. and keep the bose head unit, i suggest checking out Audio Control, id did a system in a Tl he was set on keeping his stock HU, so we did a Audio Control EQS and two audio control 2xs's, with Focal components and alpine v12 amps, sounded very amazing

 

you are better off changing the stock HU. Great speakers with mediocre HU = mediocre sound.
Great HU with decent speakers = good sound. Alpine/Pioneer/Eclipse/Clarion are all quality HU, stay away from sony xplod. Speakers JL Audio/alpine/eclipse/BA. Stay away from Bestbuy shit like Rockford fosgate. amps again JL/Alpine/BA just to name a few.

I myself run a Alpine 9855HU / JL Xr650 csi up front / JL Vr690 cxi in back / and a JL e4300 4 chan amp. on ebay cost me just under 900 for everything then installation

 

Its the easy way thats for sure, fact is some like keeping the OEM look,me myself im into tasteful after market decks. but whom ever in the GTA want to argue ill show you my stock 94 rx7's deck, with all audio control products. at a car show last year i picked 10 people, to sit in the drives seat, oblivious of the source, i would first play one 30 second clip from a song ranging in many octaves. then i would plug in the OEM deck (all hidden in trunk for my demo) and play the same bit, and asked honestly did you tell a difference, 7 said no. 3 said hell yea man, so i tested it back and forth 5 times, and proved they were shit talkers, cause there was no consistency in there choice. i proved that no matter how many features you add, in the end a good clean source is the best way.

now a days people like features, and sales pitches. bluetooth, 24bit, 999999999999 band of equalization, and so on, now think how each year more features get added, they dont want to make the sticker double the price, so what do they do, degrade the quality to add features. alpine even does it, compare your 9855 to a 9835, and you will see what i mean.

and 90% of the companies dont even make there own things, look at alpines prestige F1 status components, price a tweeter from alpine, probably 500each, now go price a scanspeak 120$....funy thing is both are scanspeaks, alpines tag is worth 380 per tweeter

*just a note i am B.S.E Honors Student(audio engineering), Working On B.S.M.E I am also a contributing Audio Engineering Society Member

sound is my thing..

 

have any of you realized that this thread is about 4 years old????

 

[SARCASM]

WOW - good thing we have you around, sounds like i can finally get my alpine 9835 hooked up correctly.

[/sacrasm]

 

maybe. did you know asides from the 9855"R" the crossover on subsonic and rear is way off. truely far from full range, so the only real way a audiophile would appreciate that deck is using a single full ranged output using external crossovers. 95% of people dont know this. for those of us lucky yo be instructed by the engineer kevin lucier (the one who engineers most alpines decks, even the creator is quick to admit its faults) now unless you have a radical tunned cars, RTA,Pink Noises, Quasi-Parametric, and so on, you probably dont appreciate any of this, i was just making my point, THERE is better

 

Guess i wasn't laying the sarcasm on thick enough.....

 

At least someone searches on here instead of starting new threads for the same old shit