hey guys srry if this was talked about before i did some searching but could find what i needed.

ok so i was in the process of changing my front pads and i cant seem to get the 2 bolts that hold the caliper onto the rotor off. i used a wrench, and an impact drill and i still cant get the bolts off.

any sugestions?

 

i didnt do the fronts, but i did the rears.
i used a wrench and a rubber mallet and got both bolts off.

 

im hopeing maybe some liquid wrench will help but im sure not by much

 

When the dealer changed the pads, they used air tools to put the calipers back on. Luckily I have an air gun, but what a pain in the ass. Just thought I'd mention it.

 

use a pipe or bar for more leverage

 

oh yeah, did i forget to mention i used a 12" length wrench.

 

pipe is good idea i tried using an air drill but it couldnt even buge it

 

Try using the deepest socket you can fit it in there.

 

Get a strong 12-18 inch long breaker bar with an impact socket (so it doesn't break) and slip a sturdy 3 foot long pipe over the end of the breaker bar. This set up will provide you with enough leverage and torque to loosen the bolts. Good luck

 

Fixed


FYI, impact wrenches don't always get the job done. For example, I had to use a 15 inch breaker bar with a 3 foot long pipe to loosen the crank pulley bolt on my CL.....whereas my (expensive as f*ck) Matco Impact Wrench with 850 ft-lbs. of torque couldn't get it loose.

 

Yeah I just use my lug nut wrench that comes stock with the car and a 1-2' pipe on it to break loose the crank pulley. As for the Impact guns/wrenches, it seems that you need a really big air tank to get the power thats advertised from them.

 

I just replaced my front pads and had the rotors resurfaced. Take the rotor screws out is a different story, but i used a regular closed ended wrench and a rubber mallet also. Pre soak with liquid wrench or something.

 

thanks for the tips guys im in class now but when i get out later i'll try these ideas

 

so do you have a plan for the rotors since 97's are hub over rotor?

 

if your talking to me, i have a 98, so i dont have that problem.

 

talking to op.

 

im just gonna leave the rotors for now there in pretty good shape plus im broke lol. early next year i'll need to change them tho

 

Since we're on topic...how the fuck to I take the rotors (both front and rear) off? I didnt see any bolts or anything...do I need to take off the gold colored cap over the center of the rotor?? If so, I couldnt even budge that shit and didnt want to mess with anythign until i was certain.

 

what year do you have?
the rears are easy........kinda.
the rears you take off the caliper then 2 screws that are hard as fack to take off, i stripped the shit out of one of the screws, then you had to pound the rotor out of place with a rubber mallet so you dont shatter the rotor.

 

I have a '99...>Yea I figured it was those screws and tried loosening them up...that didnt work at all, they were tough as shit to get away.

 

as far as those two rusted little phillip head screws, use this:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=impact+driver

soak with liquid wrench and then go to town on it with that and you'll be set. Just did this this weekend.

 

yep, i caved and bought an impact driver from autozone for $10.

 

Yep, it works, and when you put the screws back in, thats if you do, just put some anti-seize on them before hand so they don't get stuck and they're easier to remove next time around.

 

I've heard that the screws are only needed at the factory to hold the rotor in place while they put the caliper in place, the lug nuts hold the rotor on afterwards. Stuck ones can just be drilled out.

 

Heads up on impact guns fellas, the ft-lb rating is usually for threading ON a fastner, not back off.

Use a torch to heat the bolts if needed as well. That helps too.

Found that out the hard way too.

Evan

 

Tip: do not use screws when reinstalling rotors....no point. Your lugs/rust will hold them on.

 

Breaking a crankshaft -harmonic balancer bolt is a challenge for even the most powerful air-impacts. They will occasionally work, but you can't depend on them. I've seen 3/4" 1200 ft-lb impacts fail. I suspect it is hard to realize the full capacity of these air impacts w/ an air compressor and small ID (1/4-3/8") hose.

Only reliable solution I've seen is good high quality, 1/2" breaker bar, cheater pipe to realize at least 4-ft of leverage and some hard pulling. This suggests a break out torque approaching 1000 ft-lbs. A good restraint tool is also essential. A 3/4" breaker bar doesn't help as a 3/4" socket is too large to penetrate the restraint tool, so a 1/2" socket w/ reducer is required. I sheared off two 3/4" x 1/2" reducing adapters trying to use a 3/4" breaker bar I bought.

Last weekend I replaced one of the rotors on my daughter's 2.2CL. I had fits w/ removing the hub from the knuckle and stumbled onto a better way (I think) to do this job. Trying to separate the hub from the knuckle, I pulled the hub from the bearing w/ 1/2 the inner race staying w/ the inner hub part. I thought I had buggered the bearing and would need a new hub/bearing assy. However, I had this happen on a Subaru and simply re-installed the hub/race into the bearing and this worked fine (so far). Also after some google searching I found that others use a similar procedure. Here's how to remove the trapped rotor.

1) Remove the CV axle retaining nut and remove the 4 external bolts which retain the rotor to the inner hub.
2) Securely attach AZ loaner tool to the wheel studs.
AZ Hub Puller Tool
3) Securely attach AZ slide hammer to the hub puller tool.
AZ Slide Hammer
4) W/ both hands slam the slide hammer against the stop to remove the outer hub/race assy from the bearing.
5) Remove and replace rotor
6) Replace outer hub/inner race assy by driving it into the bearing w/ a hammer and big socket.
7) Re-install 4-hub/rotor retaining bolts and CV axle retaining nut.

Advantage of above is no ball joints have to be separated, CV joint does not have to be removed, the rear knuckle/hub retaining bolts don't have to be removed, and inner hub part stays in the knuckle. See Try-in Tools video sequence which does the same thing using their custom tool. Try-in Tools Honda Rotor Removal Tool. Particularly notice steps 6-7 where the bearing balls are exposed after the inner race has been removed w/ the outer hub part. Note, the inner race is split in two pieces and you only remove the outer half of the inner race.

This procedure is easier, but I can't say for certain whether removing the inner bearing race and re-installing causes any permanent bearing damage or reduces life expectancy.

good luck

 

this does make sense..........plus the caliper should hold it in place too......

 

pads done!

thanks guys / ya'll are teh shit

 

I have rotors and pads for the guys with the 97 2.2. I crashed my car before i got them on. let me know https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/fs-few-cl-parts-374352/