battery dies after installing subs
#1
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battery dies after installing subs
i put in my two subs this weekend and they fucking bang!!!! they are kicker L5 10" powred by a rockford p8002, so each sub is geting about 400 watts RMS but i noticed taht after i have them on loud for like half an hour driving when i park and try to turn the car on it doenst want to start cause the battery is dead??? wtf i think its my altenator, i also just got a capacitor for the subs i wil install tomorw but what could be causing this?
#2
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Here is what I'd check:
Have the alternator tested for output (it may be charging, but not to full capacity)
Have the battery tested (a bad cell can severly limit its starting capabilities)
Check the battery connections (loose connections can cause the battery not to charge)
Good Luck!
Have the alternator tested for output (it may be charging, but not to full capacity)
Have the battery tested (a bad cell can severly limit its starting capabilities)
Check the battery connections (loose connections can cause the battery not to charge)
Good Luck!
#4
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Originally Posted by circuitcah
Here is what I'd check:
Have the alternator tested for output (it may be charging, but not to full capacity)
Have the battery tested (a bad cell can severly limit its starting capabilities)
Check the battery connections (loose connections can cause the battery not to charge)
Good Luck!
Have the alternator tested for output (it may be charging, but not to full capacity)
Have the battery tested (a bad cell can severly limit its starting capabilities)
Check the battery connections (loose connections can cause the battery not to charge)
Good Luck!
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right on bro, ur dead on!
ive done damage to both the alternator and battery from my system as well...
i had to get a new battery.. and my alternator went out on me too, at one point..
#7
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Originally Posted by sumdumguy
be sure to install that capacitor tho. that might help the next alternator(if you have to get one)
1.5 farad atleast, right?
1.5 farad atleast, right?
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#9
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no.
thats not correct, its purpose is to hold charge near the amp to prevent voltage drops for the sake of sound quality, it is to indure you have the power for those peaks. if you dont have enough power, dont use a cap, buy a higher amperage alternator
thats not correct, its purpose is to hold charge near the amp to prevent voltage drops for the sake of sound quality, it is to indure you have the power for those peaks. if you dont have enough power, dont use a cap, buy a higher amperage alternator
#10
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i;ve decided to buy a 135amp alternator and a optima yellow cap battery. this combo should do the trick!!! and just when i though i had the system all set up one more thing to do to the car. thanks for the advice guys
#12
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it turns off when i take off the key, also the remote is wire via the blue remote wire thru the harness, not off the 12v red wire so i know i'm good there
#13
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Originally Posted by red99cl2.3
i;ve decided to buy a 135amp alternator and a optima yellow cap battery. this combo should do the trick!!! and just when i though i had the system all set up one more thing to do to the car. thanks for the advice guys
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that should do the trick, i had to get a 180amp to fix my problem but then again the abs light would come on when the revs got too low and the bass hit
#14
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lol i finally got rid of my shitty MTX subs and bought a couple L7s... they hit so damn hard it isnt funny. I have a 1 farad cap and the revs drop and the lights dim... I am thinking its time for the bigger alternator.
#15
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i know man i had a couple of infinities before and nothing big it would hit and no diming i got two 10 L5s and shit they just mess everything up
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