another question for you guys!! is there anyway i can add a sub to a 98 CL. i have the amp and the sub from my old civic. is there anyway to get the power and remote connections from the trunk or do i need to actually get the remote connection from the stock stereo and the power from the battery. all i need is a little bit more bass to make the sound fuller. i know i can tap into the rear speakers to get the sound then use something like a cross over to separate the bass. i've been reading some topics over at the "car talk" forum and the later model Cls seem to have amps for all speakers. is this the same for the 98 CL? any advice is welcome....even criticisms! thanks!!!

 

I know that if you have the Bose system then you have amps at all the speakers and thats about all i know hopefully someone else can add

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'97 CL with custom scratches thanks to my mom's "wonderful" cats

 

I had Myer-Emco build me a custom box for my 99 CL 2 years ago. I had 1 12" JL sub and a PPI amp to power it. I've since redone my system, but they tapped into the rear speakers.

A few days after the installation I had to have a switch installed to turn off the sub, cause if the the radio was off, and the sub was still on, a loud humming noise from sub emnated in the car.

Hope this helps.

phatCL
99' 2.3 CL
http://www.geocities.com/gramenis

 

I have 2 6 1/2" Bazooka subs in my trunk. I didn't hook them up, but I'm pretty sure that the guy who installed them ran them to the head unit. What I actually have is a switch that I use to turn them on / off. I believe that switch is then hooked up to the headunit. One of the tubes has a built in amp, which then powers the other one.....



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1998 Iced Blue CL 3.0 ** Some mods, but who cares, I want a Type-S!!

Moderator - 1st Gen Forum

Email: juniorbean@acura-cl.com

 

You need to get power from somewhere, and for an amp, you definitely want to go from the battery. That way you know you have the correct fuse on your line, and you are not pulling extra amps through a line for something else. I have seen the power cable run through the door frame on many cars, if you do this, make sure the cable isnt being krimped when the door opens and closes, this could be very bad if it eats through and shorts out.

As for the remote connection (this is what turns the amp on with the radio), you can connect into the back of the radio, if it has a connection (alot of stock radios dont), or you can connect into the fuse box at the radio fuse. The latter can be a little tricky, but will work, and it saves you from taking out your radio. I had my old integra hooked up this way with no problems.

And the sub on/off switch is a definite bonus, because anytime your sub has power and the radio isnt on, you will feel like your head is going to explode, because of the loud hum that phatCL was descibing. You should wiring this switch inline with the remote connection (again, the thing that tells the amp to turn on).

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Drive it like you stole it!

 

If you are going for a good quality sound you will want to get a new head unit that has sub outputs built in, then just run that signal to the sub and the power from the battery. A friend of mine has his sub signal run off of the rear speaker signal and it just doesnt sound as good as it does when it is run straight from the source.

 

You'll need an RCA adapter in order to hook it up to your stock headunit...I do not recommend this...I say buy a new headunit and get an amp for the inside speakers and change the inside speakers with components if you have the money...cuz i started the same way as you did...when I played it at high volumes...the subs would clip and the inside speakers volume and power couldnt keep up with the subs....so it took out the mids and highs...and thats what it will do drain it out...so I later changed my headunit speakers and got an amp...and now it sounds clean and loud...thats just my opinion...do it right once and get it over with ...

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99 Black 2.3 Acura CL 5-speed
Clarion DRX957Rz,
Crossfire 404s & 1000D,
Diamond Audio M561 w/hex
tweeters, Crystal CXe693, 2 12" Diamond M5 subs in custom sealed box
Matrix intake, R*SR exhaust,
AIM-Chiggacl68

 

i have a 97 acura cl 30 and i just hooked up my 2 boston acoustic compeditors and a 300 watt alpine amp to my head unit. in order to do what i did you need to buy a low to high out put converter and you need to tapp in to the rear speakers because the bose have a amp and it easyer to do it this way i hook it to the rear right speaker and it works find i did this for now till i upgrae to a t.v. it was easy if you cant do it yourself just for the line converter hook up tweeter ask $25.00 to install it. my system bumps better than my friend and he has alipine radio. its easy to do and works really well my amo is turned up a little less than 1/2 and people turn there heads you need to put a pinch thow to the front of the car for the remote wire on this car its yellow (Mostly ALL CARS ARE DIFFRENT) this wire in the front is the wire that give you 12 volts when you turn the key on to run you will need a lite probb if any question email me at Hondaclub69@hotmail.com

 

im pretty sure the install in my 2nd gen CL similar to yours. but this is for with a bose amp, not sure if your CL has a bose amp but i think it doesnt matter.

tap the inputs from the rear speakers.
get the power from the battery, you need to run the power wire through the car to the trunk.
ground the amp by connecting the ground wire to unpainted metal on the car body.
the lead turn on was wired professionally for me. they hooked it so that the amp would turn on when i was at II on the ignition. but i also had them add a switch incase i wanted to listen to the radio without the subs on.

hope this helps.

 

This is from '01, I'm pretty sure the install's done =)

 

 

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