97 CL3.0 Intake
97 CL3.0 Intake
Hey guys, new to the forum, I'm glad a site exists JUST for the CL! Anyway I'm starting to do some work on my car and want to start out with a cold air intake. I drive a 97 3.0CL. I was considering either the AEM or the Ractive. I know that AEM is a better quality but the Ractive is about half the price. Any thoughts....?
Thanks!
Thanks!
i would say..the AEM v2... its pricey though..mine 240 shipped...Ebay
but...if you want to save money...go for the cheaper one....
here is some suff on intakes...provided by AEM !click!
but...if you want to save money...go for the cheaper one....
here is some suff on intakes...provided by AEM !click!
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 92,785
Likes: 4,694
From: ShitsBurgh
AEM V2 Is the best, if you have the 200-300 to shell out. Most people on here lean toward them, but I live in an area with crappy roads and big puddles, so I got a short ram intake, adds 5 HP, but isn't as nice as the V2. Ractives are nice too, but if you want CAI you can't go wrong with the V2.
just want to say...about the V2...you dont have to worry about puddles either
cause its shorter than a cai but a little longer that sri...sorta like a hybrid
go V2
you wont be dissappointed
. . . 
V2 > CAI
cause its shorter than a cai but a little longer that sri...sorta like a hybrid
go V2
V2 > CAI
fawk that dyno proven crap. u dont need to prove to me a 300$ intake can produce 5hp. hell my 18$ off ebay prolly gave me the same results. save ur money get an ebay one and buy some headers and ull spend around the same price as they did with just the intake, but ull have atleast 20 more hp than they would. just my 2c
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by wilp99
fawk that dyno proven crap. u dont need to prove to me a 300$ intake can produce 5hp. hell my 18$ off ebay prolly gave me the same results. save ur money get an ebay one and buy some headers and ull spend around the same price as they did with just the intake, but ull have atleast 20 more hp than they would. just my 2c
Is your intake dyno proven? Does anyone have a short ram intake without any
other mods that has dynoed their car? I think you get what you pay for.
I know with an SRI you get your HP from low-mid range rpm's, on the other hand
the V2 gives you the HP through out the whole rpm range. I would like to see
two 3.0's race. 1 with an SRI and the other with a V2 ( cars can't have any other
mods ).
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 92,785
Likes: 4,694
From: ShitsBurgh
Originally Posted by DivineCL
Is your intake dyno proven? Does anyone have a short ram intake without any
other mods that has dynoed their car? I think you get what you pay for.
I know with an SRI you get your HP from low-mid range rpm's, on the other hand
the V2 gives you the HP through out the whole rpm range. I would like to see
two 3.0's race. 1 with an SRI and the other with a V2 ( cars can't have any other
mods ).
other mods that has dynoed their car? I think you get what you pay for.
I know with an SRI you get your HP from low-mid range rpm's, on the other hand
the V2 gives you the HP through out the whole rpm range. I would like to see
two 3.0's race. 1 with an SRI and the other with a V2 ( cars can't have any other
mods ).

My SRI is "estimated 5 HP gain" I got it because i didn't want a CAI. Once I save up, I will be getting the V2. But I don't know about dyno's for a SRI, however I know that it adds some HP, don't know if it's 5 horses or not.
Originally Posted by DivineCL
Is your intake dyno proven? Does anyone have a short ram intake without any
other mods that has dynoed their car? I think you get what you pay for.
I know with an SRI you get your HP from low-mid range rpm's, on the other hand
the V2 gives you the HP through out the whole rpm range. I would like to see
two 3.0's race. 1 with an SRI and the other with a V2 ( cars can't have any other
mods ).
other mods that has dynoed their car? I think you get what you pay for.
I know with an SRI you get your HP from low-mid range rpm's, on the other hand
the V2 gives you the HP through out the whole rpm range. I would like to see
two 3.0's race. 1 with an SRI and the other with a V2 ( cars can't have any other
mods ).

how bout two 3.0's race to the bank and see who still has 280$ more than the other one. ok put it like this... would u buy a 5 hp shot of nitrous for 300$. hell no. id do it for 18$.
better yet someone needs to dyno on 1 car the difference between the generick and the aem. and see what the difference actually is. the difference is prolly so minimal, it isnt funny. actually it would be funny if the generick one had better gains..
and for that u get what u pay for bs. usually u do get what u pay for. but ive had mine for almost 2 years. no problems yet. even if i did have it for exactly 2 years and it fell apart, id buy another 18$ one and be good for another 2 years. and still be 260$ richer than i would have been if i bought the aem. bottom line a pipe is a pipe. i dont care enough (300$ enough) for 1 hp gain over the entire powerband.
Originally Posted by wilp99
how bout two 3.0's race to the bank and see who still has 280$ more than the other one. ok put it like this... would u buy a 5 hp shot of nitrous for 300$. hell no. id do it for 18$.
better yet someone needs to dyno on 1 car the difference between the generick and the aem. and see what the difference actually is. the difference is prolly so minimal, it isnt funny. actually it would be funny if the generick one had better gains..
and for that u get what u pay for bs. usually u do get what u pay for. but ive had mine for almost 2 years. no problems yet. even if i did have it for exactly 2 years and it fell apart, id buy another 18$ one and be good for another 2 years. and still be 260$ richer than i would have been if i bought the aem. bottom line a pipe is a pipe. i dont care enough (300$ enough) for 1 hp gain over the entire powerband.
better yet someone needs to dyno on 1 car the difference between the generick and the aem. and see what the difference actually is. the difference is prolly so minimal, it isnt funny. actually it would be funny if the generick one had better gains..
and for that u get what u pay for bs. usually u do get what u pay for. but ive had mine for almost 2 years. no problems yet. even if i did have it for exactly 2 years and it fell apart, id buy another 18$ one and be good for another 2 years. and still be 260$ richer than i would have been if i bought the aem. bottom line a pipe is a pipe. i dont care enough (300$ enough) for 1 hp gain over the entire powerband.
That explanation was so good that you changed my mind.
Again, to each their own...but don't get mad when someone with a 3.0CL and a
V2 beats you.

I'm guessing you have a SRI?
Question: When you go WOT, what do you hear more your SRI or exhaust?
imo, buy whatever suits your budget.
fuck the v2 hype.
the only way you'll see noticable power, is by adding I/H/E at the same time, than comparing it by adding an intake onto a stock motor.
fuck the v2 hype.
the only way you'll see noticable power, is by adding I/H/E at the same time, than comparing it by adding an intake onto a stock motor.
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 92,785
Likes: 4,694
From: ShitsBurgh
Originally Posted by lnsyone
imo, buy whatever suits your budget.
fuck the v2 hype.
the only way you'll see noticable power, is by adding I/H/E at the same time, than comparing it by adding an intake onto a stock motor.
fuck the v2 hype.
the only way you'll see noticable power, is by adding I/H/E at the same time, than comparing it by adding an intake onto a stock motor.
EXCELLENT point
Intakes are a bunch of bullshit. Grantes they do add some more air flow and colder air. However thats not the intake thats the fitler and location you put it in. And the actual facts is that these are not intakes at all these are intake breathers. Buy the cheap one and get a k&n filter unless you realy want to be ripped off. Hope this helps
Originally Posted by LilNeel12
is the aem v2 considered a cai or is it's own thing?
also is the v2 safe in 3.0's without a bypass valve?
thanks
also is the v2 safe in 3.0's without a bypass valve?
thanks
if ur gonna get a cold air get the bypass balve. ive had friends who had engines go down even with the bypass valve. so actually get the short ram. its not worth the trouble. they only make a big (however big u can be with a 2 hp gain) difference on the start.
Originally Posted by wilp99
if ur gonna get a cold air get the bypass balve. ive had friends who had engines go down even with the bypass valve. so actually get the short ram. its not worth the trouble. they only make a big (however big u can be with a 2 hp gain) difference on the start.
2 HP IS a difference my friend.
Those two horepower can propel you to a victory in a race. Besides,
if you want to get the MAXIMUM hp from bolt-ons alone you might as well
go with it.
i was actually thinkin of gettin a cold air, simply cause here in florida when it rains it fluds. atleast 1-2 feet of water. and i dont drive prescious simply cause i cant make it thru anyways. therefore i wouldnt be in the perdicament.. however it does rain on the drop of a dime.
Originally Posted by wilp99
i was actually thinkin of gettin a cold air, simply cause here in florida when it rains it fluds. atleast 1-2 feet of water. and i dont drive prescious simply cause i cant make it thru anyways. therefore i wouldnt be in the perdicament.. however it does rain on the drop of a dime.
I'm caught in this predicament
I think I'll also be going with a SRI because of the summer floods
in Florida. If I didn't have to worry about flooding then I would
definately go with the V2 ( I have the bread for it ).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rp_guy
Member Cars for Sale
9
Jul 16, 2017 07:33 AM
rcs86
Car Parts for Sale
3
Aug 2, 2016 06:52 PM






