Has anyone done these yet? I'm wondering if I can just use Prestone PS and Brake Fluild on the wife's 2004 MDX. Any recommendations what PS or Brake Fluid to use?

 

Honda usually recommends using their brand of PS fluid. Due to past experience, I'd use Honda brand PS.

But as far as brake fluid goes, any brand can be used, IMHO.

 

I checked the manual but the fluid capacity of both fluids aren't in there. I can purchase both fluids in 12 oz bottles. If I had to guess, I would say I'll need 2 bottles of the brake fluid and one for the power steering fluid.

Can anyone confirm?

 

I would use OEM fluids

 

I'll be using OEM PS fluid but will pick up some Prestone or Valvoline brake fluid. Now I just need to know how much to pick up!

 

Come on, lets think about this. I have owned many cars in my 52 years and have a fleet of delivery trucks. Not once have I ever changed power steering fluid or brake fluid on one of them unless there was a malfunction of a part that required the fluid to be replaced.

I have only had this pushed on me at Acura Dealers because its a profit center for them. Next they will tell you that you need to change the air in your tires.

 

It wasn't pushed on me by the dealer. It states in the manual to change it every three years. Truth be told, I just changed the oil for the first time in my life and I enjoyed it so now I'm looking forward to do these two services.

 

It's actually a Honda recommendation to change brake fluid every 3 years/36K miles.

My 96 TL - 249K miles has not had brake fluid changed since in at least 150K miles, stops just fine.

My 02 RL - 130K miles had brake fluid changed every 3 years and the pedal feels totally different.

You can feel the difference in response of the pedal but it doesn't make you stop any faster....

I don't know if I will continue to change the brake fluid...I haven't decided yet. It's pretty cheap so I might, but it's not as crucial to do so as oil changes, coolant drain/fill's, etc. IMO.

 

I would definitely change the brake fluid, but as far as I know, the power steering fluid does not have to be changed. It isn't listed in the manual, and I was actually told by a tech. the same thing. Don't quote me though.

 

search the forums or google. for any 6cyl 4 disk brake Honda application, it's done the same or very similar.

 

Use the honda stuff, it's a few cents more than the other stuff but you'll have piece of mind. Get 2 bottles of it for a COMPLETE flush. The best way to do it is drain out the old fluid with a turkey baster or disconnect the bottom hose and drain it out properly. Then reattach the hose and refill with new fluid. Turn on the car and move the steering lock to lock a few times (I suggest putting cardboard under the front wheels, just drive up on some pieces) to help lessen the strain on the tires and suspension).

After you do this, repeat the drain and refill with the left-over fluid. This way, you get a good amount of the old stuff out.

It's good to replace this fluid once it turns dark as it helps lubricate the power steering parts. It's better to replace 5 dollars in fluid than a 1K rack and pinion.


As far as brakes go, use DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. Go with a reputable brand such as Amsoil or the honda stuff. You can take a look at the 3G TL brake bleeding and flushing procedure as to my knowledge, the brake parts are very similar.

 

Don't most trucks use airbrakes? Thus no need for brake fluid! And as far as power-steering fluid maybe the trucks used heavy duty oils that "didn't need any changing".

In any case, the fluids in the MDX's power steering system help lubricate parts of the power steering system, and over time they break down to the point where it can't lubricate and cause failure. I rather spend 5 dollars on new PS fluid than spend 1K on a new rack and pinion.

As far as brake fluid goes, its VERY important to change! Honda recommends waiting 3 years for the first change, and then once a year thereafter, esp if you live in a very moist climate.
The reason for this is water gets into the brake fluid (by it's nature its hydroscopic) and this in turn can cause poor braking and rust the internal STEEL lines and components of the braking system that can eventually lead to failure such as a stuck caliper.

 

What a great argument! Your personal experience with a collection of trucks is "proof" that maintenance can be ignored? Considering the sophisticated braking hardware in modern vehicles and the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid it would seem changing the fluid is nothing more than good maintenance rather than "the man" sticking it to us again. It's this sort of conspiracy-minded thinking that makes it so hard for me to purchase used equipment. Just follow the service manual and stop over thinking it.

 

By the way, the brake fluid change will require a scan tool to cycle the ABS module, so I'd leave this service to a shop considering the OP just performed his first oil change last week. There are many high quality independent shops that can service the system at a reasonable cost.

 

Car's a 2006 MDX, 48K miles. I'm old (76) and way past my time for DIY work; just came from my local Acura dealer; tells me I need a brake-fluid flush for $148, coolant flush also $148; $90 for differential service; plus $100 for alignment. Prices all seem far too high to me. We bought car new from same place, and got 5 years free maintenance, now it's on our tab. I get it about PS & brake fluids needing replacement, not so sure about differential. Re alignment, car drives perfectly, and tread wear is fine and very even. Will welcome any suggestions re above.

Dealer also says that Texas is, by definition, "extreme" maintenance area. Yup, it's hot in summer, but how about the other 9 months?

Thanks,

 

You dont need the ABS scan tool, just bleed FL, FR, RR, RL or whatever the user manual specifies.

 

Without a scan tool you're not flushing the entire system. Accumulator, pressure modulator, plumbing, etc all contain fluid and without cycling the ABS module you leaving the old fluid in the system. Next time ABS is activated all that old fluid is back in the system. May not be a big percentage of the systems total fluid capacity, but it's more than an incidental amount. It's probably fine to leave the ABS fluid, but my OCD won't let me do that.