KP Technologies Window roll up module install 3G Garage #I-097
04-22-2008, 10:27 AM
#324
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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following fast4dr is the following correct?
kp green to acura white/red
kp blue to acura yellow/black
kp yellow to acura white/green
kp red to acura green/white
kp black to acura black
kp green to acura white/red
kp blue to acura yellow/black
kp yellow to acura white/green
kp red to acura green/white
kp black to acura black
04-22-2008, 12:14 PM
#326
Racer
For the timing you have to leave about 1 full second in between pulses. You have to be able to audibly hear the doors lock twice.
There are several white/red wires in the door, are you sure you got the right one?
There are several white/red wires in the door, are you sure you got the right one?
04-22-2008, 02:15 PM
#327
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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I followed the instructions posted in the picure in the later pages also using the instructions posted by the OP... I am going to check 1 of my connections which I might have screwed up on
I tried the clips... FAIL... no point...
and I did read the part about waiting 1 full second wait... but ok so the windows are down... doors unlocked... I hit
once... I say 1 mississippi then tap again... do I hold or just let go....
after the 2nd press it beeps.... then nothing happens...
I tried the clips... FAIL... no point...
and I did read the part about waiting 1 full second wait... but ok so the windows are down... doors unlocked... I hit
once... I say 1 mississippi then tap again... do I hold or just let go....after the 2nd
press it beeps.... then nothing happens...
04-22-2008, 04:45 PM
#329
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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ok after I redo the connections I will check it out... kinda sucks tho cuz I had everythig wrapped in electric tape already... made it so stealthy so it isn't even visible... OH WELL
thanks for offering this product...
thanks for offering this product...
04-22-2008, 08:17 PM
#330
Originally Posted by stillhere153
following fast4dr is the following correct?
kp green to acura white/red
kp blue to acura yellow/black
kp yellow to acura white/green
kp red to acura green/white
kp black to acura black
kp green to acura white/red
kp blue to acura yellow/black
kp yellow to acura white/green
kp red to acura green/white
kp black to acura black
Al...
Check the white/red wire.
There are 2 white red wires in the same loom, right next to each other.. I wired the wrong one first...
My KP is almost 2 years old, never had an issue with it.
06-03-2008, 04:29 PM
#333
Just finished installing this. It worked the very first time I wired it up. The wiring was a piece of cake, I found all the needed wires instantly. I used the splice taps as many have but ran into a few snags with them as they don't bite properly. I had to take the door off a few times because of loose connections. I redid everything twice so it ended up taking me 2 hrs. instead of one. I know, I know solder right? I'm too lazy and I know it can corrode. I don't plan on keeping this car more than 10 yrs really. Just as long as it works till then.
But the end result is freeakin cool. Love it! I showed a few people and they were wowed. ALL credit goes to the contributors of this thread. It's very generous of you guys to lend such knowledge to make this a much more painless of a process. Proves once again why I love this board! You guys are awesome.
But the end result is freeakin cool. Love it! I showed a few people and they were wowed. ALL credit goes to the contributors of this thread. It's very generous of you guys to lend such knowledge to make this a much more painless of a process. Proves once again why I love this board! You guys are awesome.
06-03-2008, 10:44 PM
#334
Racer
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yeah i got mine installed about a week ago. Thanx to this thread it made it a breeze. I ran into the problem where the wire taps didn't bite the smaller gauge wire as well. Stillhere153...make sure if you are using wire taps that the metal blades cut through the outer insulation on the wires you are tapping.
07-26-2008, 04:52 PM
#338
Suzuka Master
Argh... been playing with this issue way too long. No matter what timing I use, I cannot get it to work. It worked once.. then not again. I read that the KP module should beep or something? Any way to reset it?
This is frustrating and have the feeling I've thrown money away.
This is frustrating and have the feeling I've thrown money away.
07-26-2008, 05:26 PM
#339
Stew -
I dont have one of these but im thinking that if you got it to work once but not again it is probably your connections. I dont believe the module beeps, but it is the security of the car beeping.
If you are using T-taps, perhaps you should try soldering the connections - this is almost always the better route to go. If you have soldered then just double check all of your connections.
Good luck
I dont have one of these but im thinking that if you got it to work once but not again it is probably your connections. I dont believe the module beeps, but it is the security of the car beeping.
If you are using T-taps, perhaps you should try soldering the connections - this is almost always the better route to go. If you have soldered then just double check all of your connections.
Good luck
07-26-2008, 07:16 PM
#340
Safety Car
The car beeps, not the Kp module. It took me a while to get the rhythm. practice with your key in the lock.
Originally Posted by A SiQ TL
I had timing issues at first too. This is what helped me out.
With your thumb on your remotes LOCK button, think like you have the key in the drivers door lock and are rolling the windows up that way. I will actually turn my hand twice(the one holding the remote) just like I would be doing if I had my key in the lock. With each turn, hit the LOCK button.
Of course it helps if you have actually rolled up the windows with the key a few times to know the rhythm.
With your thumb on your remotes LOCK button, think like you have the key in the drivers door lock and are rolling the windows up that way. I will actually turn my hand twice(the one holding the remote) just like I would be doing if I had my key in the lock. With each turn, hit the LOCK button.
Of course it helps if you have actually rolled up the windows with the key a few times to know the rhythm.
07-26-2008, 08:49 PM
#341
Suzuka Master
I re-did all my connections.. still no go. I don't even get the security beep now. I was very careful to connect to the same wires the OP showed. Like I said, it worked once. I am going to pull it back out tomorrow and shit-can the whole thing. It was a good idea at the time... but my patience is gone on this deal.
I wish I knew a way to test the thing to see if it functions or now... grrrr
I wish I knew a way to test the thing to see if it functions or now... grrrr
07-27-2008, 05:42 AM
#342
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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yea it is very much a pain in the ass, i tried 5 times before I just canned the whole thing and let rodneynyc look at it... it took him 15min to take off all the electrical tape I had on there, and 2 mins to fix it... he experimented and did an even hotter mod, if I am sitting in the car and hit lock twice on the door all the windows roll up 
07-27-2008, 06:13 AM
#343
Suzuka Master
I was wondering if you got yours working. I saw that you were fit to be tied back when you installed it.
I wish I had a way of knowing if I have a defective model or if it is still an error in my wiring.
Argh.. to take that door panel off again... something I did yesterday has made the security beep go away.. is that normal?
I wish I had a way of knowing if I have a defective model or if it is still an error in my wiring.
Argh.. to take that door panel off again... something I did yesterday has made the security beep go away.. is that normal?
07-27-2008, 09:09 AM
#344
Suzuka Master
Soo, now I have the door panel off, verifying that I have continuity from each side of my connection points on the wires to the module and that all checked out fine. So.. I start checking voltages..
KP red = 12VDC constant
KP Yellow = Hot with key on IGN
KP Black = continuity to ground is good.
Now I checked KP-Green and KP-Blue to ground and found Blue is straight to ground. I have that connected to the Yellow/black just inside plastic barrier sheet. I am wondering if that wire should be to ground with key off but it is switched soemwhere in the circuit when the door lock signal is issued... weeee. so much fun. I guess I should take the cover off the KP module to check for damage.
I checked the insides of th emodule.. no visable damage. I tested the KP Blue for door lock pulse, it was there.
I disconnected the module but left the wiring in place. The security beep functions as well as can now roll up the windows with the key in the door lock.
Maybe the wiring has changed for the '08s.. dunno
KP red = 12VDC constant
KP Yellow = Hot with key on IGN
KP Black = continuity to ground is good.
Now I checked KP-Green and KP-Blue to ground and found Blue is straight to ground. I have that connected to the Yellow/black just inside plastic barrier sheet. I am wondering if that wire should be to ground with key off but it is switched soemwhere in the circuit when the door lock signal is issued... weeee. so much fun. I guess I should take the cover off the KP module to check for damage.
I checked the insides of th emodule.. no visable damage. I tested the KP Blue for door lock pulse, it was there.
I disconnected the module but left the wiring in place. The security beep functions as well as can now roll up the windows with the key in the door lock.
Maybe the wiring has changed for the '08s.. dunno
09-05-2008, 09:41 PM
#348
Looking for new mods
OK. So here is the problem I having. I got it to work once. One time the windows will only go up about 1 inch at a time. All my window controls stay lit, plus my memory button as well? What can be wrong?
09-06-2008, 01:37 PM
#351
Looking for new mods
^^^ End up removing it for now. The thing drained my battery over night. I was not getting the Welcome screen on the MID and the memory buttons will stay on. Still today it ill only go up 1 inch then stop. So I will wait for Help on this one.
02-15-2009, 03:20 PM
#353
10th Gear
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I'm installing the KP Technologies window roll up module in my 07 TL.
The problem i'm having right now is its giving me a "check TPMS system" and the remote will not do anything at all and also the gauge cluster is contiuously lit... becausee it thinks the door is open even when it is closed (i still have the door panel off)
this started after i crimpted the KP yellow wires to the small green/white stripe wire on the white connector.
any help is appreciated
The problem i'm having right now is its giving me a "check TPMS system" and the remote will not do anything at all and also the gauge cluster is contiuously lit... becausee it thinks the door is open even when it is closed (i still have the door panel off)
this started after i crimpted the KP yellow wires to the small green/white stripe wire on the white connector.
any help is appreciated
02-15-2009, 09:19 PM
#354
10th Gear
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ok its working fine now.....except now my guage cluster does not work or even light up, my window controls in the car don't work, my windshield wipers don't work, my blinkers don't work and my obd reader is showing code u0155 which is a problem communication with the guage cluster
not sure what happened. i followed the steps in this thread and the roll up module works perfectly.
not sure what happened. i followed the steps in this thread and the roll up module works perfectly.
02-22-2009, 11:05 AM
#355
Road Racer / Solo Addict
Thanks for taking your time to make this for us.. very helpful..
02-27-2009, 09:09 PM
#357
Racer
A few pointers -
Don't go by the pictures, USE a meter to meter to check ALL connections. Hondas have mutliple wires of the same colors inside the doors and the only way to be sure is to verify with a meter.
If the module goes up and stops after an inch, the yellow wire is connected to the wrong wire.
You can check the functionality of the module by placing the red wire on a volt meter to the red wire on the module and then placing the black lead on the green wire from the KP tech module (disconnect it from the car). With all other wires conntected you shouldn't read any voltage. Next, hit the lock button twice (with the door pin closed so the car thinks the door is closed, the windows won't go up if the door is open). After you hit the "LOCK" button twice the meter should go to 12vdc, drop back to 0, then go and stay at 12vdc for ~x seconds.
The KPtech blue wire will read ground until you lock the door, then it will read 12vdc. This connection is hooked directly to the door lock actuator - the actuator rests at ground.
If you lose functionality of your guages something went drastically wrong somewhere. I've never heard of anyone else doing this, but I would guess you shorted out the "RAP" wire inside the door and blew a fuse. If your power window stops working you shorted out the hot 12vdc wire in the door and blew the power window fuse (that I have seen happen before).
Solder all connections. There is too much moisture and vibration inside the door for Ttaps or crimp connectors to be reliable. The factory wiring is also all over the chart in size, while all the KPtech wires are 20awg. This makes it almost impossible to connect some of the smaller OEM wires to the bigger KPtech wires. This is the #1 cause for intermittent issues.
Wait one full second between pulses. For safety, the modules timeing is pretty tight - push it too fast and nothing will happen, push it too slow and nothing. Get it just right and it will work every time. The "window" of opportunity is right around 1 second - starting 1/2 second after the first door lock and ending 1.5 seconds after the first door lock.
If you install a module and it doesn't work at all the first thing to check is to make sure all the wires are connected correctly. This is the #1 reason why modules don't work when first installed. This is also the #1 cause of warranty returns of the HM20 - modules that are damaged by connecting the (-) output directly to 12vdc.
Don't go by the pictures, USE a meter to meter to check ALL connections. Hondas have mutliple wires of the same colors inside the doors and the only way to be sure is to verify with a meter.
If the module goes up and stops after an inch, the yellow wire is connected to the wrong wire.
You can check the functionality of the module by placing the red wire on a volt meter to the red wire on the module and then placing the black lead on the green wire from the KP tech module (disconnect it from the car). With all other wires conntected you shouldn't read any voltage. Next, hit the lock button twice (with the door pin closed so the car thinks the door is closed, the windows won't go up if the door is open). After you hit the "LOCK" button twice the meter should go to 12vdc, drop back to 0, then go and stay at 12vdc for ~x seconds.
The KPtech blue wire will read ground until you lock the door, then it will read 12vdc. This connection is hooked directly to the door lock actuator - the actuator rests at ground.
If you lose functionality of your guages something went drastically wrong somewhere. I've never heard of anyone else doing this, but I would guess you shorted out the "RAP" wire inside the door and blew a fuse. If your power window stops working you shorted out the hot 12vdc wire in the door and blew the power window fuse (that I have seen happen before).
Solder all connections. There is too much moisture and vibration inside the door for Ttaps or crimp connectors to be reliable. The factory wiring is also all over the chart in size, while all the KPtech wires are 20awg. This makes it almost impossible to connect some of the smaller OEM wires to the bigger KPtech wires. This is the #1 cause for intermittent issues.
Wait one full second between pulses. For safety, the modules timeing is pretty tight - push it too fast and nothing will happen, push it too slow and nothing. Get it just right and it will work every time. The "window" of opportunity is right around 1 second - starting 1/2 second after the first door lock and ending 1.5 seconds after the first door lock.
If you install a module and it doesn't work at all the first thing to check is to make sure all the wires are connected correctly. This is the #1 reason why modules don't work when first installed. This is also the #1 cause of warranty returns of the HM20 - modules that are damaged by connecting the (-) output directly to 12vdc.
03-14-2009, 04:06 PM
#359
A few pointers -
Don't go by the pictures, USE a meter to meter to check ALL connections. Hondas have mutliple wires of the same colors inside the doors and the only way to be sure is to verify with a meter.
If the module goes up and stops after an inch, the yellow wire is connected to the wrong wire.
You can check the functionality of the module by placing the red wire on a volt meter to the red wire on the module and then placing the black lead on the green wire from the KP tech module (disconnect it from the car). With all other wires conntected you shouldn't read any voltage. Next, hit the lock button twice (with the door pin closed so the car thinks the door is closed, the windows won't go up if the door is open). After you hit the "LOCK" button twice the meter should go to 12vdc, drop back to 0, then go and stay at 12vdc for ~x seconds.
The KPtech blue wire will read ground until you lock the door, then it will read 12vdc. This connection is hooked directly to the door lock actuator - the actuator rests at ground.
If you lose functionality of your guages something went drastically wrong somewhere. I've never heard of anyone else doing this, but I would guess you shorted out the "RAP" wire inside the door and blew a fuse. If your power window stops working you shorted out the hot 12vdc wire in the door and blew the power window fuse (that I have seen happen before).
Solder all connections. There is too much moisture and vibration inside the door for Ttaps or crimp connectors to be reliable. The factory wiring is also all over the chart in size, while all the KPtech wires are 20awg. This makes it almost impossible to connect some of the smaller OEM wires to the bigger KPtech wires. This is the #1 cause for intermittent issues.
Wait one full second between pulses. For safety, the modules timeing is pretty tight - push it too fast and nothing will happen, push it too slow and nothing. Get it just right and it will work every time. The "window" of opportunity is right around 1 second - starting 1/2 second after the first door lock and ending 1.5 seconds after the first door lock.
If you install a module and it doesn't work at all the first thing to check is to make sure all the wires are connected correctly. This is the #1 reason why modules don't work when first installed. This is also the #1 cause of warranty returns of the HM20 - modules that are damaged by connecting the (-) output directly to 12vdc.
Don't go by the pictures, USE a meter to meter to check ALL connections. Hondas have mutliple wires of the same colors inside the doors and the only way to be sure is to verify with a meter.
If the module goes up and stops after an inch, the yellow wire is connected to the wrong wire.
You can check the functionality of the module by placing the red wire on a volt meter to the red wire on the module and then placing the black lead on the green wire from the KP tech module (disconnect it from the car). With all other wires conntected you shouldn't read any voltage. Next, hit the lock button twice (with the door pin closed so the car thinks the door is closed, the windows won't go up if the door is open). After you hit the "LOCK" button twice the meter should go to 12vdc, drop back to 0, then go and stay at 12vdc for ~x seconds.
The KPtech blue wire will read ground until you lock the door, then it will read 12vdc. This connection is hooked directly to the door lock actuator - the actuator rests at ground.
If you lose functionality of your guages something went drastically wrong somewhere. I've never heard of anyone else doing this, but I would guess you shorted out the "RAP" wire inside the door and blew a fuse. If your power window stops working you shorted out the hot 12vdc wire in the door and blew the power window fuse (that I have seen happen before).
Solder all connections. There is too much moisture and vibration inside the door for Ttaps or crimp connectors to be reliable. The factory wiring is also all over the chart in size, while all the KPtech wires are 20awg. This makes it almost impossible to connect some of the smaller OEM wires to the bigger KPtech wires. This is the #1 cause for intermittent issues.
Wait one full second between pulses. For safety, the modules timeing is pretty tight - push it too fast and nothing will happen, push it too slow and nothing. Get it just right and it will work every time. The "window" of opportunity is right around 1 second - starting 1/2 second after the first door lock and ending 1.5 seconds after the first door lock.
If you install a module and it doesn't work at all the first thing to check is to make sure all the wires are connected correctly. This is the #1 reason why modules don't work when first installed. This is also the #1 cause of warranty returns of the HM20 - modules that are damaged by connecting the (-) output directly to 12vdc.
I bought the HM20, but don't know how should be installed.
03-14-2009, 04:45 PM
#360
Racer
Follow the pointers above though, and do NOT go solely by pictures, they can be very misleading. Use a volt meter to find the wires - follow the instructions in the installation manual to determine the correct wires.