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KP Technologies Window roll up module install 3G Garage #I-097

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Old 03-03-2012, 01:48 PM
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ok thank you sir i really apreciate your help
Old 04-09-2012, 09:24 AM
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sometimes it works for me and sometimes it doesn't.... what's the timing between keypresses (i'm sure thats my problem)?
Old 04-09-2012, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by av2600
sometimes it works for me and sometimes it doesn't.... what's the timing between keypresses (i'm sure thats my problem)?
The HM20 window module works off of door lock pulses, NOT keyfob presses. Therefore you must wait enough time in between presses for the doors to lock. You must be able to hear the doors lock twice in order for this module to work. Once the door lock actuator finishes locking you have ~1 second to press the "LOCK" button again. There is no need to ever hold the "LOCK" button down - just press and release.

For best performance we recommend you wait one full second in between pressing the "LOCK" button.
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:36 AM
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^^that's exactly the way I was instructed to use the KP one too.
thanks for sharing!
Old 04-28-2012, 11:36 AM
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Ordered, received, installed/soldered all wires, worked on the first try. ONE min delay in between locks, as it's been stated by "kpierson"

30 mins....and that's only because I had to find another soldering gun tip.
Old 04-28-2012, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
to date, this is still one of my favorite mods to this car.
I bet SC valve removal is at the top
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Old 05-17-2012, 01:36 PM
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I installed mine the other day but got pretty frustrated when nothing happened when I hit "lock" on my key fob. For some reason I thought I screwed something up because it wouldn't attempt to lock, but would unlock just fine. Then, I realized I was an idiot. Just like when it was stock, the door must be shut for the "lock" signal to make anything happen. Here I was testing for voltages like the directions said, but no where did it mention the door must be shut. This might be obvious to some, but for some reason my mind totally forgot about that feature.

After all was said and done, quite a simple install and I am grateful for this write-up, thanks!
Old 05-18-2012, 08:14 AM
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^^HA!!! I've done this, too!
Old 05-18-2012, 10:04 AM
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Opel...it continues to be one of my favs buddy!
I wish I knew how to solder when I installed this...used t-taps...but I don't trust them as much as soldering. BUT, that said, almost 3 years and still going strong and I use it EVERY single day since I ride with windows down EVERYWHERE. Plus, installed whilst having some beers.
Old 06-13-2012, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
Opel...it continues to be one of my favs buddy!
I wish I knew how to solder when I installed this...used t-taps...but I don't trust them as much as soldering. BUT, that said, almost 3 years and still going strong and I use it EVERY single day since I ride with windows down EVERYWHERE. Plus, installed whilst having some beers.

I used t-taps as well. No probs here. At the time my solder iron was crap. I bought a new one when I did the ind. fog switch mod.

I really enjoy this mod. Esp when car is out front I can drop windows for a few to let heat out and shut them without ever opening the front door to house.

Also cool cruising around and get out and windows shut as you are walking off.

I have had no problems with mine. Been just under a year.
Old 06-13-2012, 07:51 PM
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Old 06-13-2012, 07:54 PM
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^^^now there is a well organized modder...nice!
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:46 PM
  #493  
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I did this install today and it went silky smooth thanks to this post! I did do 2 things different. 1) I cut two small slits in the plastic were the foam block rests with the door panel installed to zip tie the Kp module to the door. This allows the door panel to be removed without having to leave the module dangling. I did shave the foam block an inch or so to compensate for the thickness of the module. 2) soldered and taped the connections
Old 06-21-2012, 09:14 AM
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^^^True that, good call. Nobody likes a "dangling module".
Old 06-21-2012, 09:46 AM
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This has got to be one of my favorite mods to date....def one of the most useful....love walking away from my car in the parking lot and someone looks at you like "are you really gonna leave your windows open" and then they roll up as you walk away....

Also love when my passengers make it seem like I dont know my windows are down as im walking away from my car...
Old 06-24-2012, 12:50 PM
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I used double sided 3m tape to keep my module to the foam pad. No issues to date. I also used a heat gun to re-attach white plastic back to the door so it was sealed back up factory fresh.
Old 06-24-2012, 10:37 PM
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Sweet mod!
Old 06-26-2012, 03:12 PM
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Installed the unit, however after the door locks and i see the security LED blinking, the door continues to try to lock and the windows inch up rather than roll all the way up.

Any suggestions?
Old 06-26-2012, 03:34 PM
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^ check all your connections I had a similar issue but went back and realized one of my T-Taps wasnt spliced correctly into one of the wires....if its hooked up properly it should work fine. Also make sure the module in securely plugged into that white connector
Old 06-26-2012, 06:15 PM
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I did. Even changed connectors. Same result with the actuator continuously attempting to lock the door even after the windows are fully closed and the security LED is blinking. I'm going to disconnect the module for now.
Old 06-26-2012, 06:33 PM
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remove from the equation, if all goes back to normal...reinstall and follow the steps again (don't just reconnect the same to the same, redo it).
Old 06-26-2012, 08:09 PM
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If the module is inching up each time the module is triggered the problem is most likely with the yellow wire being hooked up incorrectly.

If the module is triggered and continuously starts and stops the windows at random times most likely the green wire has a poor connection.

If the module is doing random things with no trigger then I would check the black and red wires for poor connections.

The Honda/Acura version of this module does have an LED inside it that can be used for diagnostics. It is a super bright LED right by the white connector that can be seen through the opening in the enclosure where the wire harness plugs in. When the module receives a lock pulse the LED should flash. When it gets a second lock pulse (the trigger pulse) the LED should come on and stay on until either the module times out after about 10 seconds or until the module receives a STOP command. STOP commands come from either an additional door lock pulse or the ignition being turned on. The LED will flash 2 times after a shut down for one of the STOP commands and three times for the other. Unfortunately I'm not sure at the present moment which is which. It shouldn't be too hard to figure out.

How were the wires connected? If you used TTaps or scotchlocks I would get rid of them and solder the connections. We have had many a customer "fix" their problems by simply soldering instead of using TTaps.
Old 06-29-2012, 01:20 PM
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just installed it about 30min ago.. love it so far.. the foam block was dusty or flaky and i couldnt stick the module to it...
Old 07-18-2012, 12:26 AM
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So cool how much??
Old 07-18-2012, 11:32 AM
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$40 last time I checked.
Old 07-18-2012, 12:39 PM
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just ordered mine today for $60. cant wait to get it set up
Old 07-27-2012, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by kpierson
If the module is inching up each time the module is triggered the problem is most likely with the yellow wire being hooked up incorrectly.

If the module is triggered and continuously starts and stops the windows at random times most likely the green wire has a poor connection.

If the module is doing random things with no trigger then I would check the black and red wires for poor connections.

The Honda/Acura version of this module does have an LED inside it that can be used for diagnostics. It is a super bright LED right by the white connector that can be seen through the opening in the enclosure where the wire harness plugs in. When the module receives a lock pulse the LED should flash. When it gets a second lock pulse (the trigger pulse) the LED should come on and stay on until either the module times out after about 10 seconds or until the module receives a STOP command. STOP commands come from either an additional door lock pulse or the ignition being turned on. The LED will flash 2 times after a shut down for one of the STOP commands and three times for the other. Unfortunately I'm not sure at the present moment which is which. It shouldn't be too hard to figure out.

How were the wires connected? If you used TTaps or scotchlocks I would get rid of them and solder the connections. We have had many a customer "fix" their problems by simply soldering instead of using TTaps.
OK so first I used t taps and it would activate and windows would go up like an inch and then wait 5-6 seconds then again and again and again until all the way up so I looked at yellow and it is connected to right wire but did have poor connection so I looked at all t taps and they all sucked...

I don't have access to soldering gun until tomorrow so in the mean time I pulled back coating of all wires and and took module wires and wrapped them around nice and tight just like you would before soldering and plugged stuff back in and it still did the same thing.....

Any suggestions????

Will soldering really make a difference with connection when wires are already wrapped around each other??
Old 07-27-2012, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by allykahn
I did. Even changed connectors. Same result with the actuator continuously attempting to lock the door even after the windows are fully closed and the security LED is blinking. I'm going to disconnect the module for now.
Having same issue as well as them not going all the way up just inching up....

Did you finally get it fixed?? What did you end up doing??
Old 07-27-2012, 09:27 PM
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BLUE WIRE WAS THE PROBLEM!!!! FOR ANYONE ELSE WITH SAME ISSUE THAT HASN'T GOT FIXED YET

I went out for a 3rd time to retrace everything....I know when it says yellow/black for KP Blue wire it means more yellow than black; however, there is a wire that is like 50/50. Yea...my mistake it is not the right wire....should have read closer

ANYONE OUT THERE WHO HASNT DONE THIS YET

Make sure you read very carefully as to WHERE the yellow/black wire runs

I skipped over this part this wire is #1 behind the plastic and #2 there is about 5 wires going into plug but it is covered with tape also so you need to get behind plastic AND pull some tape off in order to see it and this one is indeed more yellow than black....

just my .02 and my solution to my problem....I know KP said to check yellow wire with inching up and down but in my case the blue wire was culprit for everything.... inching up and down AND not disengaging with 3rd pulse, etc..,
Old 07-28-2012, 02:12 PM
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Glad you got it figured out.

I am glad I had this the other day. Somehow the keyfob in my pocket got pushed and my windows rolled down. Good thing we were sitting on the patio drinking so I was able to notice it relatively soon. 2 pushes of lock button later and windows were back up.
Old 08-28-2012, 12:33 PM
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just bought mine thanks for the info
Old 09-21-2012, 10:53 AM
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Guys, someone asked if this module will work on a Type S?
Old 09-21-2012, 10:56 AM
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yeah it works on a type-s just fine.
Old 09-21-2012, 11:10 AM
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Any wiring changes for the Type S?
Old 09-21-2012, 12:45 PM
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I don't think so, Steven.

You gettin it?
Old 09-21-2012, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Steven Bell
Any wiring changes for the Type S?
nope i followed the directions that came with the KP kit. very simple job. i've installed a bunch of these on type-s' and regular degular TL's.
Old 09-21-2012, 01:29 PM
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got dat degular, nukka?!?
Old 09-21-2012, 02:36 PM
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Did I mention this is still, to this day, my favorite mod??
Old 09-21-2012, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
I don't think so, Steven.

You gettin it?


I'm considering it too.
Old 09-22-2012, 06:04 AM
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Great write up, cant wait to install mine, bought it off black market for 30shipped


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