nfnsquared

Wondering if the 10mm will help with the TB cover bolts? I think I'm going to go ahead and snag both the inch and metric sets at this price ($50 each). Why the F didn't they include a 12mm in the metric set?

Sears.com

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I actually didn't have a problem with the 1/4" ratchet and socket iirc...I think i loosen, then just hold the socket itself in my fingers to remove. A lot of those ratcheting wrenches seem to offer too much play and have weird angles and I end up not using mine.

NetGnome

I have just succesfully finished my 08 Base TL with 150,000 miles that I purchased back in 2009.
The parts I removed all looked like they could go to 200,000 miles easily.

The job is a hard one and you can get into trouble easily if you are not very careful. I cross threaded one screw hole and it was a pain to fix. Also I found that if you get the belt spacing correct between the camshaft pulleys, and you have the slack down to the tensioner, that you can get a one tooth 'bubble' error on the back of the rear camshaft pulley. This makes it very hard to get the timing belt over the tensioner, but if not corrected will throw off your timing if the engine is rotated. I wonder if others have had this problem.

I could not have done this without my harbor freight square drive socket caps (67011) and rachet wreches. Also a 7/8" socket fits well over the radiator drain vavle to loosen it. I removed the shock tower cross bar for room. And the battery hold down bolt is easy to mushroom and hard to remove if you do, so I would recommend adding the nut to the end of the battery hold down bolt after you thread it through the boss on the engine.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I had that same issue with the rear tooth, but I had marked the belt and the cam with silver sharpee so I knew I was off...plus, I knew where the slack should be thanks to Majofo. That said, I used a ratchet to bring the rear cam back one to fit belt then pulled it taut.

Glad it all worked out for you!

erg69

^^ I did the exact same thing.

Majofo

94eg!

If anybody needs an brand new OEM water pump, I have one at the link below...

https://acurazine.com/forums/car-par.../#post15429386

nfnsquared

Anyone know anything about this alternate style tensioner? Bundy claims it's less prone to failure/leakage... (8:30 in the video). Part # is: 14520-P8A-A01

Spen_cer

I had everything ready to go, but then i started reading about having the oil pump resealed. Is there a kit with all the oil pump related seals?
Must i order them individually ?

I have been searching and so far tracked down two which im going to order if i cant find the kit

#3 & #11 from the link below (any others to worry about ?)

Acura Parts @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura

Reason i ask, Majofo's first picture you can see the seals over a fel-pro box.
All i could come across it this Crank seal kit which may be just what he ordered along with the seals http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=426&jpid=2

Spen_cer

Just came across , what i believe to be an oil pump gasket set!

More Information for VICTOR REINZ JV5086

nfnsquared

Why are you replacing the seals? ....and IIRC, Majofo never used those seals....

t-rd

I think you are referring to VTEC solenoid behind the oil pump. Mine on my Accord V6 is leaking at 200000 miles and I will be replacing it at the next oil change.

Spen_cer

Originally, wasn't going to bother with the seals. But since everything is going to be apart why not. Some people have oil seal issues with it others don't , rather have the "piece in mind"

Ended up ordering them just in case i do decided to pull the oil pump apart.

Majofo

I didn't, but 50k miles later.. it started leaking.

bluezion07

Just bout a type s 07 blue and it has 163,000 on the dash don't know if the original owner changed timing belt or water pump do u guys think I should change . The dealer is charging me 1200 to do it but the kit is only 350 wit ship and handling.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

LOL...
I'm gonna make you do the work here.

What do YOU think we're gonna say in this thread specifically?!?!

Majofo

Tell tale stuff is if the timing covers / crank pull bolt have any scuffs on them. If not, then probably wasn't changed. Next, take the covers off and check the belt, water pump, idler pulley and auto tensioner for wear (check the DIY for pic comparison).

ghernz

Newbie to the site

2006 TL with 103K miles
2007 MDX with 98K miles

Great write up and thread! Spent the last two days reading all 137 pages

This is on my to do list in the next couple of weeks on the TL. Have MM A14 service due.

I have done V6 TB on 2000 Passat (3 times) and 4 cyl TB on Mitsubishi Outlander (3 times). With these two cars the first time TB change went without any problems. They both recommend TB replacements at 60K miles.

On the Passat 20K miles later the water pump started leaking and 30K miles later the idler pulley came apart. The water pump was under warranty from online supplier but it was PITA to do it again. On the idler pulley it was out of warranty (2 yrs/24K miles) so I had to get another kit. I went with another online vendor.

On the Outlander they recommend every 60K miles, so after the second set the water pump started making noise. Autozone replaced it under warranty but also PITA to have to do it again before 60K.

The lesson I have learned is to use OEM parts moving forward! I would rather pay a little more money for parts and not have to do the install again before 100K miles.

Getting ready to order a kit from Amazon and oemacuraparts.com. Amazon kit does not include auto tensioner and thermostat.

I have a few questions.

1. Does the SM say anything about replacing the CP bolt?
2. Does the CP bolt need any thread locker?
3. On write up #11 picture shows to dab thread locker. Is this for every bolt for WP, idler pulley, adjuster and auto tensioner?
4. What color thread locker (red or blue)?

Thanks,

George

94eg!

1- CP does NOT need to be replaced (Honda doesn't use torque-to-yeild-bolts).
2- CP bolt needs clean motor oil on the threads and between the bolt head & washer (gives most accurate torque)
3- Thread locker is only called out for use on the idler pulley toward the front of the engine (not the tensioner pulley)
4- I chicken out and use blue.

All the parts in the Gates-brand kit are OEM except the water pump. Therefore Buy the Gates kit without the water pump & tensioner. Then get the Aisin-brand hydraulic tensioner separately (it's OEM). The only part you need with a Honda logo on the bag is the water pump...and my post above has a brand new one for sale for cheap.

Majofo

ghernz

Is the Aisin Kit THK-002 100% OEM for $189 on Amazon

94eg I'll send you a PM. I am going to need to order two kits. One for 2006 TL and one for 2007 MDX. Same parts for both correct?

94eg!

No....the Aisin kit uses a Mitusuboshi timing belt, and a Aisin water pump. They say they are OEM because those are OEM suppliers for OTHER car companies like Toyota.

OEM Honda belts are stamped with the "Unitta" brand. That's the Gates brand in Asia. The Honda water pumps are Yamada brand, now called YNA (Yamada North America).

I would go with Gates TCK329. That kit will fit both your vehicles. My water pump will fit both your vehicles too:
For the tensioner, Aisin BTH001 is what you need for both cars.

ghernz

My main concern is the parts for the TL (water pump, tensioner, idler,and bearings). My daughter drives it back and forth to college (Dallas to A&M) about 3 hour drive. My wife drives the MDX here is Dallas so not as important if something fails.

I have already ordered the Aisin kit THK-002. I will order the gates kit and tensioner next. I'll install all the OEM parts on the TL and the OEM like parts on the MDX.

Thanks

nfnsquared

92K on the Gates kit, no issues....

ghernz

Nice

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

:relieved:
You read horror stories...but I trust in you and Joe...
still going strong, probably about 7K miles now.

nfnsquared

Yeah, I'm convinced that those Gates owners who got leaks screwed up the gasket and/or over-torqued the water pump bolts.....

ghernz

Got all my parts in and getting ready to do this work.

One question on the gates kit it comes with a large washer shim. The Aisin kit did not come with a shim. Is it required? I didn't see anything about it in the write up.

Thanks,
George

jauman

iTrader: (4)

Here's a video on the Service Bulletin 08-031 that was put out.
https://youtu.be/Tz-89-jrBOA

I was thinking of putting the provided shim on mine. It makes the same noise as the video.

ghernz

That is only talking about bad tensioner. Does not mention the shim??

The gates kit comes with a copy of TSB PA006-11. On the back it list of makes and models. For 2005-2008 TL V6 nothing is listed for vin. Now for MDX 2005-2008 V6 is list ALL?

Confused??

jauman

iTrader: (4)

I just did this service on Saturday and did not use the shim. I used the Gates kit which comes with the tensioner. Mine was still making the same noise after the install with new tensioner and NO shim.... :-(

Guess I shouldve pit the shim on.

jauman

iTrader: (4)

^^^agreed, it was confusing. I thought about calling gates to ask them. If 05-08 tl aren't affect, why even put them on the list?

Timbert

2005 TL with 119k and unknown service history. TB marked "OHC329 Made in Japan" and then "310184" and the rest of the numbers in sequence as in the video Unboxing Gates.

Based on this, can I assume the belt is not the original and that it was changed by someone who installed the Gates kit?

There is no sticker on the strut tower or under the engine cover, etc., where mechanics often put this information.

94eg!

Original belt looks like this:



Unitta is the Gates company in Asia...

ghernz

I just changed mine on my 2006 and went to take look at original TB belt and it didn't have any marking. So I would say it has been changed.

candrews

This brings up an interesting idea. I've seen VW's with the date/mileage marked on an external piece like a plastic cover. I think they use the same yellow paint marker's that the junkyard guys use to mark parts. Might be nice for the next owner.

ghernz

Finished my install yesterday and it's running great. Thanks for the write up and tips.

It took me longer than I expected (13 hrs solo). I was taking my time and ran into a couple of problems.

Here are a few things that I had to deal with.

The CP bolt broke loose on first try. Set up jack stand, break bars and 4' pipe. When it broke loose I thought the socket or extensions had broke. Got everything off as described. My biggest problem was I thought I sent my crack on TDC with the covers on (per #5 on write up). After I removed CP and timing covers I noticed I was 180* off. I put my CP bolt on and turned it 180* and got marks lined up correctly. Big mistake I didn't put the crank pulley with the bolt. I got TB off and replaced when I was getting ready to put the TB on I realized that the CP bolt was not coming off. I had to take off the starter and put a wedge on the flywheel to lock and hold the crank to be able to removed the CP bolt.

During removal I noticed oil leaking at the bottom of the crank pulley. Not sure where it was coming from so I decided to replace the front crank seal. I used a tip that I got from VW when I changed the seal on my old passat. I drilled small holes on the seal and put in sheet rock screws. I put vise grips on each side and pulled it out. On the new one I put some grease and tapped it in slowly till it was flush. I have a pic that I will try to post.

When I was putting on the TB I was having trouble getting the rear cam to line up. It was slightly off. I tried to move the rear cam just a little forward to get it to line up and the cam sprung forward. Got it back in line and went with it slightly off.

During reinstalled I noticed step #13 should be after #14. Starting with side mount bracket on engine, timing covers, drive belt tensioner (without belt) and then step #13 (crank pulley and bolt).

One of the toughest was getting to the thermostat bolt on the back. This took me forever to find and loosen the bolt that holds the wire harness to get enough room to get to the back theromstat bolt. In my opinion this is not worth the effort and something you could skip from doing. The old thermostat looked better than the new one.

I left the spark plugs and oil change for the end. I wanted to make sure I didn't have any problems with the TB first. Started it up and everything was good. No codes or noises. Let it warm up and cool off.

Lastly I replaced the spark plugs, oil change and rotated the tires. When I started it back up I got check engine light with code P0306 (#6 misfire). During my last TB change on my bothers Outlander I invested on a basic code reader. This came in handy so I didn't have to go rent one. Problem was wire harness on #6 was not completely connected. Got it connected and erased code.

Running great.

A couple of notes. I went ahead and installed the shim behind the idler pulley provided with the gates kit. I was also confused which bolted needed thread locker (idler pulley or adjuster). I went ahead and put it on both. I should have came back and read my post from above on Q&A #3 answer by 94EG!

3- Thread locker is only called out for use on the idler pulley toward the front of the engine (not the tensioner pulley)

Once again thanks for write up and all the tips. It was worth reading all 37 pages!

ghernz

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Great tip, thanks for sharing!

Now you got me wondering, I can't recall if I used thread locker.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Also, did a valve adjustment on my weedeater last night