Majofo

ahh.. you beat me to it..

erg69

^^ lol

cfv22

No, but I could have been if I wasn't chirping in his ear and asking questions the entire time... Trust me, if time is what you really care about he can get it done in 35... i was in no rush and wanted to learn so it took about 45-50 min...

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Gonna have a mod check the IP to see if you're the same person.

Atlas_Gen

Damn 45-50 minutes is pretty quick!

Majofo

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Sic em!

ECRD

Yes and thats with him watching, talking, and asking me multiple questions as I worked Lol.
I usually don't let people hang out while I do the job but I could tell he was a cool super laid back guy so I didnt mind the company.
And sure enough he was one of the nicest people I've met. Thanks for letting me work on your car!

Oh and....I just did a 05 TL timing belt today no distractions in 34min flat.
Sorry guys!! Lol

nfnsquared

Starting with the hood down and wheel on? TB, water pump, tensioner, refill coolant, burp.

Not a chance.

Majofo

minute man

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

34 Lucky Ladies!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I believe it can be done, but I think he starts the timer once he pulls the pin on the new tensioner!

ECRD

Yes starting with hood open, car on lift, nothing else,
wheels I don't take it off why would you take wheels off???? Who does this...?
When coolant is filled with my auto burp funnel and ignition is turned on, timer stops.
34min

Waiting for the coolant to cycle of course I need more time.

Majofo

This is a little unbelievable but I'm willing to stay open minded. If you're as quick as you say and modestly price, I'm sure aziners would drive across state lines for the price you're charging to do TB jobs.. What's your info so aziners can seek you out?

ECRD

Anybody interested in my services please private message me like cfv22 did and you'll be a happy customer too!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

This isn't some big mystery process you're trying to get trademarked, right? Pretty easy to help to market yourself and shut everyone else up (including me) by having a customer do a time lapse video!

I'd be impressed!

J.

dezymond

That is insane if you do it that quickly.

Majofo

You said you'd give a GB rate.. you should start a thread so members can put their names on a list.

jauman

iTrader: (4)

great right up. Would this respectfully be the exact same 105 maint job on an 08 MDX? (3.7L, but in essence the same j-series engine.)

warterdesmanne

Sorry for cross posting but didn't know I should have posted this here...

I have worked up the cojones to tackle my TB. I figure that I have good attention to detail and from reading, watching, and gathering as much information as possible I feel that it is within my skill set.

I would love if someone with experience could chime in here and answer a few questions about the job.

#1 Would anyone recommend a method of holding the crank and cam pulleys in place after finding TDC on #1? Or even bothering, I would think these would hold themselves pretty well, but I also hear that at TDC the sprockets are "teetering" on rolling over in both directions.

#2 If, god forbid, things were to move unexpectedly... Moving the rear and crank to the TDC marks and moving the front to TDC #1 would align everything back up, no?

#3 Theoretically I've heard one can use a vacuum/pressure gauge attached to cylinder #1 (via the spark plug seat) to tell crank position, correct? Would there be a way to determine rear cam position other than the mark? Or is that sufficient? Ditto with the front (although I know this cam has a TDC #1 mark).

#4 My Haynes and Chilton both suggest cranking the engine manually after replacement of the belt six times to bring it back to TDC #1. Some folks have suggested even with the spark plugs out one could damage the internals. This seems to be unlikely unless you are really cranking the pulley and not feeling for resistance. With the plugs out what is a normal amount of resistance?

#5 When pulling the water pump out our DIY suggests draining from the rear plug is not useful as not much fluid will drain from this point. Could you manually turn the water pump a few times to "force" the fluid through after draining the rad to minimize spillage? Or would this damage something/just be useless?

#6 I see kits with crank and cam seals. I also understand if these are in good shape one wouldn't necessarily need to replace them, or are they a common point for leaks? I also hear this is the same for the oil pump. How difficult is a replacement/repair of the oil pump? Would anyone suggest just re-seating it with a new seal and visual inspection? Or if you go to this trouble should one just replace?

#7 I know I have also asked this several times, so I apologize. If there is a reason this is a dumb question I would love to know. I need to replace the front mount. I hear replacing the through bolt is needed/suggested, yet some state they re-used the bolt/s. These bolts "stretch", correct? Much like the crank pulley bolt (that I intend to replace during the TB process).

I re-call seeing the 04-06 FSM posted here somewhere but can’t find it. I would love if someone could link it for me as I seem to not be able to search even with the advanced option, lol. Would someone be able to tell me how far off this would be from the 07 or be able to share some shots of their FSM for the 07 105k service? I think I will be waiting on the valves till spring… They don’t seem noisy.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Post wherever you'd like, man...was just suggesting that you'd get a faster response in here.

erg69

1. No its not needed
2. Yes, my rear cam jumped a half a tooth, but if you follow the directions on how to put the new belt on its full proof. You can move the cam back into place where it should be if needed.
3. The marks are all you need, don’t over think this.
4. With the plugs out its around 20 lbs or so to get it to crank over. I agree to crank it over just to verify all your marks line back up before putting everything back together.
5. Don’t over think it, there is literally around 1-2 cups of fluid that leaks out that is easily caught by paper towels and a drain pan.
6. Not sure, mine looked fine.
7. I’ve not heard that a bolt would stretch. I have heard of a board stretcher in the wood working business, but not a bolt stretcher.

94eg!

#1: No. There is nothing to hold them in place.

#2: Usually the rear wants to snap forward. If this happens, it's okay because it's the valves closing. no worries of damage. Just be sure to roll it BACK to TDC. DON'T continue rolling it forward to get back around to TDC or you could press a valve into a piston. Also be sure to use a box end wrench for precision control of the cam as the springs try to force it in either direction around the TDC mark.

#3/4: You are overthinking it. All three pulleys are clearly marked. Even without the large lower pulley installed. If you put the belt on wrong, it will be pretty obvious. If a cam snaps out of alignment, it will be very easy to roll back into place.

#5: No chance pumping more fluid, especially since the system is now full of air. Just let it spill out.

#6: If a seal isn't leaking, I don't replace it.

#7: All bolts stretch when torquing, this doesn't mean they must be replaced. Always consult the OEM shop manual. As you can see below, not all the bolts are 1 time use. According to this image it looks like the front mount lower bolts were designed to be replaced after 1 use. They are only 63 cents each from OEMAcuraParts.com:

http://www.oemacuraparts.com/auto-pa...nts-mt-06-scat

nfnsquared

1&2. It's just the rear cam that may or may not slip ~1/8 turn before you have the belt on the sprocket. Just crank it back to TDC with a wrench/socket, not an issue.

3. No clue, but who cares? Follow the manual/DIY. Setting the timing marks is not rocket science. But remember, the rear cam mark will probably be off slightly. Several of us have noted this in our remarks in this thread...

4. I couldn't tell the difference with plugs in or out. And what dumbass is suggesting that damage could occur? Wait, probably the same dumbass who got the timing marks dorked up

5. I didn't drain from the rear plug. I wouldn't go to the trouble. I didn't measure the amount of fluid that drained when I pulled the pump, but I'm sure it was more than 2 cups...

6. 185K and still no leaking. I wouldn't worry about any seals if they aren't leaking.

7. I'd replace a bolt if the SM recommends it. Someone has posted a link for a searchable SM. Do a search, it's here somewhere. But honestly, spending $50-$100 for a SM is money well spent IMO, your call...

Re: Valve adjustment at 105K.... Meh... If you're going to keep the car for another 50K, then I'd probably do it. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it.

I did mine and found the valves to only be out of spec by 0.001". Exhaust were tight, intake were loose. This is pretty much what everyone is seeing at 105K: minimally out of spec (but out of spec nonetheless). If you adjust the valves, I'd recommend setting the exhaust valves on the loose end of spec and the intakes on the tight end of spec.

Mondo375

iTrader: (3)

I had an issue over the weekend with the rear cam going clockwise about 30 degrees, when pulling the cam back to throw the belt on it went counter clockwise. About the same if not more but with quickness. When I rotated it back it spring back to its originally place, 30 degrees clockwise past the mark where it started. I had to hold the rear cam close enough to the mark so it didn't rotste back in order to slide belt on and keep timing In rear in place.

Would the rotating of it going back and forth cause any valve damage? It fired up and runs what seems to be fine but definitely sounds different. Like Subaru different. Could it be off a tooth? No check engine lights or anything for misfires.

Majofo

It's under a lot of spring pressure. Rocking back and forth with the engine off isn't a big deal. Starting it up without checking TDC on cams and crank and slacking the belt out appropriately could be. I'd check your marks before firing her up again.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Making sure slack is only around tensioner, pull pin then
3 Full rotations to ensure all 3 marks line up

That was the only way I was sure it was all okay.

Mondo375

iTrader: (3)

I did the 6 rotations and everything was still lined up. Ill check again here after work. Thanks guys

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I did all the checks...and still managed to forget to plug the TB plug back in...CEL on!

94eg!

^Not as exciting as leaving your ratchet plugged into the crank pulley bolt when you fire it up.

Did that twice. Hopefully never again.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

ROFL...what was the damage? Or just scared the heck out of you?

polobunny

Ok that one is insane. Twice?

94eg!

Well it was a several years apart.

The 1st time was ~2006.....no harm no fowl. It was my 1st timing belt job ever, working on my 89 CRX. Everything went well and I was very pumped to fire it up. Really freaked at the horrible sound so shut it off right away. That's when I found the ratchet still hanging (had been there for 2 weeks lol).

The second time was years later (~2011) after a valve adjustment on the same car. When I started it up, it chucked the ratchet and split the side of the socket open. Even rounded the tip of the bolt a little. Thank goodness for Craftsman lifetime warranty. The bolt is an $8 replacement I will purchase when finishing up the headgasket change this month (or next).

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for sharing.

Mondo375

iTrader: (3)

Well timing seems to be fine by covers. But I take its best if I remove all covers and look at it from that way.

Majofo

Timing cover marks aren't all that accurate, but from the looks of it, rear cam looks to be a tooth off.

mattygee06

I've done a few of these V6 TB's on various vehicles and can make a few suggestions... If you dont want to do the starter bump trick, carefully heat the head of the crank bolt. Even a heat gun will make a big difference. I know there are warning against this in the service literature but a little heat and common sense will go a long way toward getting the bolt out. Second.. just cut the old timing belt off once you're in. There is a lot of side load on the tensioner bolts and breakage can result. After I pull the plugs, I drop the coils back in the holes to preclude anything from falling in a plug hole.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Those are all great suggestions!

Majofo...
Poor guy.

Mondo375

iTrader: (3)

Well tonight will be fun then, practices makes perfect lol

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

if it's true, i hope a tooth off didn't damage anything.