2G TSX Chat, Chit, and General Info Thread
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lady gaga bumps
Lol!
ok, will do. I know, hopefully the rear is still in stock when I'm ready to get that. That is, IF they're still available as of now
ok, will do. I know, hopefully the rear is still in stock when I'm ready to get that. That is, IF they're still available as of now
Three Wheelin'
Recently realized my A/C didn't seem to be as cool, even after dropping the temperature down lower than usual. Then today I happened to feel the air flow from the passenger side and it was noticeably cooler compared to the two vents for the driver. The temps read the same, even tried turning "sync" on and off and didn't notice a difference. Any ideas on what could be the issue?
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Can you change it to the floor vents and see they feel different from side to side?
Since the car uses wizardry to be able to have two different temperatures on the driver/passenger side, you might need to add more sacrificed goats blood.
My guess would be a stuck mixer door on the driver side. Although I'm just assuming based on how a normal car HVAC works... There's some flappy doojober that mixes the cold AC with warm air to modulate the temperature. Seems like if you're getting significantly warmer air on one side, that flappy thing might be stuck. Did you try going full hot and full cold to try to get it moving? Maybe just running it through some cycles will get it working.
Since the car uses wizardry to be able to have two different temperatures on the driver/passenger side, you might need to add more sacrificed goats blood.
My guess would be a stuck mixer door on the driver side. Although I'm just assuming based on how a normal car HVAC works... There's some flappy doojober that mixes the cold AC with warm air to modulate the temperature. Seems like if you're getting significantly warmer air on one side, that flappy thing might be stuck. Did you try going full hot and full cold to try to get it moving? Maybe just running it through some cycles will get it working.
Three Wheelin'
I'll give what you mentioned a shot next time I drive. haven't done the whole hot to cold or checked the floor vents yet.
Also checked my VIN today and my car has the airbag recall. How long does that normally take for them to fix?
Also checked my VIN today and my car has the airbag recall. How long does that normally take for them to fix?
J-Power ($190) or SPC camber ($450) ?
I have a set of wheel (19x9+30 / 19x9.5+30) coming and I'm going for tire size 245/35 and 255/35. I need some help with the camber kit.
Which one should I choose for daily driving?
I have a set of wheel (19x9+30 / 19x9.5+30) coming and I'm going for tire size 245/35 and 255/35. I need some help with the camber kit.
Which one should I choose for daily driving?
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
I have the J-Power 6pc rear camber kit, and I'm pretty sure it's just an SPC eBay knockoff. I've had them on for about 2 years now, and I don't see anything wrong with them other than some surface rust (I live in Canada and daily drive it through all 4 seasons, so I'm not at all surprised). I'm definitely no expert, but the bushings appear to be ok still from a basic visual inspection I did.
If you want the best without getting them custom made, SPC is probably the best option. But I like my J-Powers just fine, especially for the price.
edit: FYI, with 19x9+30 up front on 245s, you will probably need a front camber kit if you're lowered. I'm on 18x9 +30 up front on 235/40R18 Michelin PSS tires, and there's noticeable poke on natural camber from a ~2" drop. If I had 245s I would definitely rub. I bought an Ingalls balljoint front camber kit for the front, and will install it this spring. Will probably need around -2 degrees of camber or a tad more negative.
edit2: I have 18x10 +38 also on 255/35R18 tires in the rear, which is pretty equivalent to your 9.5 +30. I actually used my rear camber kit to make the camber more positive and I'm not rubbing at around -2 degrees (mind you, my rear fenders are rolled). If you're simply concerned about rubbing, I doubt you will too (although 255/35s will be a tad beefier on your 9.5s than my 10s). If you want to correct the camber like I did, then it's a no brainer to get a kit. If your only concern is rubbing, then try it out first before ordering because I suspect you won't if your rear fenders are rolled.
Last edited by xtcnrice; 02-16-2017 at 10:50 AM.
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Nghi Hoang (02-16-2017)
SPC is probably the best aftermarket option we have. But yes it's a lot more expensive than J-Power.
I have the J-Power 6pc rear camber kit, and I'm pretty sure it's just an SPC eBay knockoff. I've had them on for about 2 years now, and I don't see anything wrong with them other than some surface rust (I live in Canada and daily drive it through all 4 seasons, so I'm not at all surprised). I'm definitely no expert, but the bushings appear to be ok still from a basic visual inspection I did.
If you want the best without getting them custom made, SPC is probably the best option. But I like my J-Powers just fine, especially for the price.
edit: FYI, with 19x9+30 up front on 245s, you will probably need a front camber kit if you're lowered. I'm on 18x9 +30 up front on 235/40R18 Michelin PSS tires, and there's noticeable poke on natural camber from a ~2" drop. If I had 245s I would definitely rub. I bought an Ingalls balljoint front camber kit for the front, and will install it this spring. Will probably need around -2 degrees of camber or a tad more negative.
edit2: I have 18x10 +38 also on 255/35R18 tires in the rear, which is pretty equivalent to your 9.5 +30. I actually used my rear camber kit to make the camber more positive and I'm not rubbing at around -2 degrees (mind you, my rear fenders are rolled). If you're simply concerned about rubbing, I doubt you will too (although 255/35s will be a tad beefier on your 9.5s than my 10s). If you want to correct the camber like I did, then it's a no brainer to get a kit. If your only concern is rubbing, then try it out first before ordering because I suspect you won't if your rear fenders are rolled.
I have the J-Power 6pc rear camber kit, and I'm pretty sure it's just an SPC eBay knockoff. I've had them on for about 2 years now, and I don't see anything wrong with them other than some surface rust (I live in Canada and daily drive it through all 4 seasons, so I'm not at all surprised). I'm definitely no expert, but the bushings appear to be ok still from a basic visual inspection I did.
If you want the best without getting them custom made, SPC is probably the best option. But I like my J-Powers just fine, especially for the price.
edit: FYI, with 19x9+30 up front on 245s, you will probably need a front camber kit if you're lowered. I'm on 18x9 +30 up front on 235/40R18 Michelin PSS tires, and there's noticeable poke on natural camber from a ~2" drop. If I had 245s I would definitely rub. I bought an Ingalls balljoint front camber kit for the front, and will install it this spring. Will probably need around -2 degrees of camber or a tad more negative.
edit2: I have 18x10 +38 also on 255/35R18 tires in the rear, which is pretty equivalent to your 9.5 +30. I actually used my rear camber kit to make the camber more positive and I'm not rubbing at around -2 degrees (mind you, my rear fenders are rolled). If you're simply concerned about rubbing, I doubt you will too (although 255/35s will be a tad beefier on your 9.5s than my 10s). If you want to correct the camber like I did, then it's a no brainer to get a kit. If your only concern is rubbing, then try it out first before ordering because I suspect you won't if your rear fenders are rolled.
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
I having Tein SA on my car, and all fenders will be roll for sure. So according to your information, I will need font camber kit, so is this the one that Im gonna get?
Burning Brakes
Drifting
Those zip ties are beautiful
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julius071 (02-18-2017)
Burning Brakes
Thanks!
Burning Brakes
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Nghi Hoang (02-21-2017),
xtcnrice (02-20-2017)
Hey guys, this is driving me crazy. Been experiencing some clunking noises when driving over bumpy roads on my front passenger side of the wheel for the last 3 or so months.
It is most prominent when the car hasn't been driven for a few hours (e.g. in the morning, or parked at school for the whole day), and the sound typically lessens as I drive.
Initially thought to be endlinks, and had that replaced but the sound still persists. I am also running Tein Street Basis coilovers.
Anyone have an idea of what it might be?
It is most prominent when the car hasn't been driven for a few hours (e.g. in the morning, or parked at school for the whole day), and the sound typically lessens as I drive.
Initially thought to be endlinks, and had that replaced but the sound still persists. I am also running Tein Street Basis coilovers.
Anyone have an idea of what it might be?
ROTAREDOM
Hey guys, this is driving me crazy. Been experiencing some clunking noises when driving over bumpy roads on my front passenger side of the wheel for the last 3 or so months.
It is most prominent when the car hasn't been driven for a few hours (e.g. in the morning, or parked at school for the whole day), and the sound typically lessens as I drive.
Initially thought to be endlinks, and had that replaced but the sound still persists. I am also running Tein Street Basis coilovers.
Anyone have an idea of what it might be?
It is most prominent when the car hasn't been driven for a few hours (e.g. in the morning, or parked at school for the whole day), and the sound typically lessens as I drive.
Initially thought to be endlinks, and had that replaced but the sound still persists. I am also running Tein Street Basis coilovers.
Anyone have an idea of what it might be?
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
Ball joint?
Banned
the window for repair is 2 hours, but it's a 30 min job.
ROTAREDOM
You know you've done your taxes right when you come out to receiving very little or owing very little to the government... but damn $170 isn't even enough to cover my next costco visit!
Le Sigh**
Le Sigh**
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xtcnrice (02-24-2017)
ROTAREDOM
Burning Brakes
I feel ya man. Like what I always say "you make more money the next day."
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by ssjoeboe9
You know you've done your taxes right when you come out to receiving very little or owing very little to the government... but damn $170 isn't even enough to cover my next costco visit!
Le Sigh**
Le Sigh**
I always when I see my friends talk about their 3 thousand dollar return.. I be like, "you have the government an interest free loan!!!
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xtcnrice (02-24-2017)
Banned
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ssjoeboe9 (02-24-2017)
ROTAREDOM
I think it's deeply ingrained in our American Roots to be upset at our tax system haha
About the modulo font on 2011+, have anyone try that yet? I wanted to have it but when I do some research it may cost about 1,2k
And do we really need all of those item? (I found it from xtcnrice thread)
And do we really need all of those item? (I found it from xtcnrice thread)
Unregistered Member
I believe you need 09-10 fogs + grille to run the modulo front.
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xtcnrice (02-25-2017)
Burning Brakes
Burning Brakes
Itz JDM y0!
You can get a grill for less then $380 from other members on here or the fb page.
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
^lmao
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Rdub81 (02-26-2017)
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
Yep.. it'll be one of the last things I do to this car cosmetically. It's too expensive for 11+ vehicles, and plus it doesn't come in my car's colour so I'd have to spend on a respray as well.
Unregistered Member
Your sig is so colorful , ahem :ghey:
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xtcnrice (02-26-2017)
Everyday I'm rofling
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Super JDM Dorifo-san action bumper. Much battle damage. Very authentic. Hyper wow.
ROTAREDOM
I can't wait to sell my entire vehicle!