Hey y'all!

Its me. The new guy!

I just got in here and just heard about Zaino products from this forum. I checked the website out and they have like 15 different products. So, as usual, whenever I'm stumped I post a post!

What should I get and whats the order I should use it? Like wash, polish, spray, lather? I have no freakin clue! I always just used Meguliars on the RL I had, but I want my new/used CL to shine!

 

Check out this thread. Corvette guys are Zaino worshipers.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=292398

 

don't forget to use the SEARCH feature people!!

here's my thread from just last week: Zaino

also consult Chod's FAQ!!

 

Here is another EXCELLENT write up from over on the TL Forum.

Shawn S

CLICK ME

 

andynice20:
Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino


Austin519

 

In quick......
Z-1 or ZFX (these two products are interchangable.
Z-2
Z-5
Z-6
Z-7
Z-18

You get all of this and you should be golden. I found a distributor here locally that I can go through, but Sal and his henchmen are great to work with. I bought all of the above (minus the Z-7) and it ran approx. $70 bucks including delivery.

 

andynice20:
Get the ZFX instead...you don't have to use Z1, you can do multiple coats in a day, etc etc etc. And although it didn't look like much...it goes a long way.

Austin519

 

anyone know how ZFX works??? like how does it speed up cure time and such?? if u put a drop under a microscope, what kinds of chemical structures would u see??

 

lots of cancer causing chemical agents.


but cmon... would ya rather lose a nut or have a shiny car? ill take the car please jk jk

 

General Instructions for Zaino Show Car Polishes
I will make assumptions – that you have a decent supply of items required to detail and care for your car properly. Included should be at least the following items.

-One or two wash mitts. At least one for careful cleaning, and one for the dirty work.
-Top quality, 100% cotton towels for drying the car, removing the polish and detail work.
-A selection of smaller assorted rags and cloths.
-A selection of Zaino Show Car Polish Products.
-At least one wash bucket, but two are preferable.

You need a good quality wash mitt. Your choice here can vary from using another quality towel, to 100% cotton wash mitts or a genuine sheepskin wash mitt. The purpose here is to have enough material so it holds lots of water and suds, while providing room for dirt to be held away from the paint while you wash it.

You need a good selection of quality 100% cotton towels for both drying the car and removing the polish. This would be a few larger bath size, one or two medium ones for Zaino removal, and one or two hand towels to be used for applying the Gloss Spray. A very highly recommended brand is Royal Velvet by FieldCrest. They also produce a thicker, more luxurious brand called Charisma. These towels should only be washed with a good liquid detergent, never use fabric softener, and if possible they should be line dried. If you are unable to line dry them, use a clothes dryer but don’t dry them entirely in the dryer, removing them early and let them dry indoors. It is important that you get enough of them, and they are a size you are comfortable handling. The bath towel is approximately 27” by 50” and quite a decent size for drying. Two should take care of the average car. One important key is that you only buy white towels. Coloured ones can leave dies behind that may adversely affect your finish. A suggestion is to also cut off the ends (selvedge) since that is rough, and usually uses a polyester cotton blend thread. You can sew the end back onto itself to reduce fraying, and if you do, use cotton thread. If you do not sew it, there will be some fraying, but not likely enough to worry about.

Some smaller, less expensive washing, drying rags can be purchased in bulk and used for areas where the finish isn’t a concern. Engine compartments, wheel wells and other areas that may damage your good towels are prime locations to keep and use these smaller cloths for. They can also be used for applying some of your detailing products. You can never have too many little rags that can be sacrificed for the really dirty jobs.

Your selection of Zaino products should include Z1, Z2 and or Z5, Z6, Z7, Z16 and Z18. I will skip over the interior products, as well as the “occasional” use, exterior items for now.

You can skip some of the steps I am going to include, and some of them are only done occasionally. You don’t have to use the clay bar, the Gloss Spray, or even the tire gloss. These are all extra steps to help you obtain the maximum results from your purchase of Zaino. After the initial preparation work, the cleaning task will take less time while continuing to provide amazing results and protection to your cars finish. Since Zaino is a system of layering, you can start up with any of the non-essential items any time you like.

Washing and Drying The Vehicle

If this is the first application of Zaino Polish products, you need to get the car clean to achieve maximum benefits as well as improving the ease of application. The same steps should be followed whether the car is brand new or several years old. I will make the assumption that you have decided “not” to clay the car. While it is a highly beneficial process to do as far as helping to smooth the surface by removing contaminants that washing may not “pull off” the paint, it is not mandatory. You can decide to use the clay bar at a later date, and it will not adversely affect the shine or finish of any already applied Zaino products.

One important “pre-step” is to be sure that your paint surface is not very hot. Washing is best done out of the direct sunlight, if it is hot outside. You can do it early in the morning, late at night or in the shade but do try and avoid those super hot sunny days. The cold water shock on your car’s finish is not good for it.

The first time you wash your car – prior to applying Zaino, you need to be certain that the finish is free of all contaminants and any previously applied waxes. To do this, you should wash your car using Liquid Dawn by Ivory, blue dishwashing detergent. It is very alkaline and will clean the surface extremely well. Do NOT make a habit of doing this as it is a harsh detergent.. Mix in a few ounces into a large bucket and wash as directed below. Do NOT mix it with your Zaino Car Wash Soap. Follow the same washing directions that you would use for normal washing.

Fill up a bucket with some water and when the bucket is about ˝ full, add in a cap or two of Zaino Car Wash – Z7. Direct the spray of the water hose to create suds. If you are going to use the two bucket method, now also fill the second (rinsing) bucket with just water. While the hose is running, direct the spray over the car’s surface to blast off as much of the dirt as possible with just the spray. This also serves to “wet-up” the car and helps reduce friction from the wash mitt. To help reduce the amount of water used, you now shut off the hose and set it aside until you have gone over either the entire car or at least half and want to rinse off the soap suds to help prevent them from drying on the paint.

Dunk your mitt into the soap bucket, and without wringing it out place it on the roof. Washing back and forth, or large circular motions is all you need to do – but do not apply a lot of pressure. The weight of the mitt, the water and gravity will probably take off all the dirt that a regular washing takes care of. Once you have seen that most of the water has left the mitt, and the area you wanted to wash is now clean, dunk the mitt into either your “rinse” or your suds bucket if using only one. Give it a good shake, or “rough it up” with your free hand to remove dirt particles. Continue these steps, working your way from the top to the bottom of the car, so that the water, suds and dirt that you have freed up will run towards the ground and you won’t be washing them back onto your paint. Rinse your mitt often. You can choose to rinse off the car when half washed, or wait till you have washed the entire vehicle. If you have a second “rough” wash mitt – likely a cheaper synthetic material, remember to use that around your wheel wells, tires and the really dirty areas. You don’t want to mess up the good wash mitt. You can also use it on your rims unless they are very sensitive or expensive – then I might suggest another mitt or cloth. A handy tip to reduce the amount of water that stays on the car is to remove the nozzle on the hose and hold it at a close angle to let the water run and not spray onto the car. It will sheet off more and leave less water behind to dry off.

OK, you have finished washing and rinsing, so now it is time to dry the car. There are many choices when it comes to all the various methods of drying your car, such as “The Absorber”, chamois, leaf blower, California Water Blade or using good quality towels. All of the above are fine, and in fact I presently use a Water Blade along with towels.

If you have a California Water Blade, your first step after rinsing the car would be to start at the roof of the vehicle and wipe the water off. Start at the top and work your way down to the lower panels. This will avoid pushing water onto already wiped areas. Using the water blade will not get all the water off of the car. You will have to go over it again, either with your towels, chamois or the Absorber if you have one. As for drying the car with towels, this is the easy part. Simply rub the car with the towels until the water goes away. Try to avoid putting a lot of pressure on the towel, since this is the time when a lot of swirls get put into the finish. Apply enough pressure to keep the towel from falling onto the ground. Remember to turn it frequently to expose more dry material. Once you feel that the towel isn’t picking up any more water, it is time to grab another. There will no doubt be areas on your car that will trap water. These are often around side mirrors and trim pieces. Once you have figured out where they are on your particular vehicle you can pay a little more attention to them. Doing this will make things easier, since it seems like the water will only run onto the finish after you are done for the day. This will leave watermarks. Now that you have done the larger and more exposed areas of the car, don’t forget all those often neglected areas like in-between the doors, under the hood and trunk, under the doors, inside the gas cap area, and any other area that got wet and needs to be dried off. You may want to get some cheaper towels or rags for those areas, and more for the engine bay also. You do not want to get your good drying towels all covered in gunk from the wheels, engine parts or greasy hinges and latches.

Many people have used a chamois over the years and found it to grab a lot of water off the surface. While this is true, it does not have any place for dirt that might be on the paint to go when you rub over it. This may create swirl marks by dragging the particles around the paint. In fact, anything that touches the paints surface has that potential. Since towels have a thick surface, dirt particles can be drawn away from the finish and this will help reduce the possibility of swirling.

 

YIKES ! ! !

Thats my instruction sheet (well part of it anyways). I did a 6 pager up for new customers . . . .

oh well - if you want the whole thing - email me at dennis@mossmans.com and I'll send it . . .

cheers

Dennis