Try to clean fading dash..with Meg product

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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 01:05 AM
  #1  
handy911's Avatar
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Try to clean fading dash..with Meg product

My search for the "fading dashboard" problem gave me conclusion to either:
1. Try 303 Aerospace Protectant
2. Or have the dealer apply the Honda cleaner and vinyl protectant.

Only one member mentioned to use this product from Meg:
http://www.meguiars.com/?vinyl-rubbe...n-Tech-Protect

I like Meg products because they're available locally here. Please lemme know if anyone has tried this product to specifically get rid off the dash fading.

thks
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 01:32 AM
  #2  
exceldetail's Avatar
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Optimum Protectant........or 303. the two best interior products I have used which deny oxidation and fading.
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 08:46 AM
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From: Trail BC CanaDUH
303 does work as I have used it on my TL... another is Meguiars #40 vinyl & rubber protectant. But its not something you find at WalMart.

I have tried a few of the NXT product(s) and have been less than impressed. Pretty pricy for what you get.
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 03:59 PM
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Tech Protectant is really not a bad product but a little too shiny for me. I apply it with a water moistened MF towel to tone it down a little. If it's available locally, give it a shot. At half the cost of 303, I don't think you'll go wrong. BTW, 303 is usually my first choice.
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 06:13 PM
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best way to fix the fading dash:
First clean with a 6 : 1 solution of water to woolite.

Dry well and then apply 303 aerospace protectant. Honda released a TSB on this and they said it was a chemical migrating up through the surface, and that cleaning the chemical would stop the fading, and the 303 will protect it and give it back a good finish.
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 01:10 AM
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I tried to clean it with warm water only and applied some 303...but surprisingly the fading got worse...now the dashboard is sort of white-ish...I am not sure if 303 caused it, or may be I didn't clean it right...but with the warm water, nothing changed since I was just trying to clean up dust...

overall, I hate to be the first one to not like 303...I had to go through different auto stores to get it and it failed to impress me...

I am getting my car to the dealership to fix it...

PS: I know I probably didn't apply it right or somthing, but still it's supposed to be easy to use with no complications..
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 07:56 AM
  #7  
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if you take it to the dealer for warranty, i would tell them i didnt put anything on it, otherwise they will say you caused the damage...

i use the meguiars interior detail wipes followed by a wipe down with dry cloth...keeps it new looking with no greasy look....
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 08:58 AM
  #8  
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From: Trail BC CanaDUH
Originally Posted by handy911
I tried to clean it with warm water only and applied some 303...but surprisingly the fading got worse...now the dashboard is sort of white-ish...I am not sure if 303 caused it, or may be I didn't clean it right...but with the warm water, nothing changed since I was just trying to clean up dust...

overall, I hate to be the first one to not like 303...I had to go through different auto stores to get it and it failed to impress me...

I am getting my car to the dealership to fix it...

PS: I know I probably didn't apply it right or somthing, but still it's supposed to be easy to use with no complications..

Well don't blame the 303 ... I use it on my TL dash alone with many other TL owners .. If you read up the poster said use Woolite/water to clean it first.

I use both 303 & #40 with no discoloration .. matter of fact I just used 303 last week on my dash.

Be it Eagle One, Zanio, Mequiar's, Mother's, 303 etc, all the "white-water based" dressings are PDMS.

303, Mequiar's, Eagle One (VW's product is Eagle One), etc etc etc ...these are water borne, Polydimetalsiloxane resin formula's, every last one of them.

This resin DOES NOT DAMAGE vinyl or tires.

303 has a higher resin content, the maximum that can be used, which is why it cost more.
Most of the mass marketed PDMS are usually around 18 to 20%, most professional dressings are between 22 and 27%.
Cost is an issue for professional detailers, and even the higher resin 303 does not last "that" much longer than a, say 24% content.
Just looks better for a couple of days.
The "UV" protectant adverstising is pure bunk, it is not possible to actually put "UV" blockers in these types of resins and if it could be done, the product would have to be marketed at about 3 to 4 times a higher price, as a UV component is very, very expensive.
The claim of "UV" protection comes from the resin barrier created and the additional shine, which reflects the damaging UV's.
The real advantage of using a PDMS is protection from the far more damaging ozone that is present. This protection is only there as long as the product is.
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 09:43 AM
  #9  
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handy, how was the 303 applied?
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 04:14 PM
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thanks all for the info...

first, I wiped down the area with MF cloth soaked in a warm water

then, just sprayed and wiped the 303 with new and dry MF towel...when the fading did not go away, I sprayed more 303..then I realized that it got worse...

the fading used to be on top of the airbag lining area (like most people had), now it sort of spreads into near the center display...(Sorry no picture, I am at work)

did I do something wrong with 303?
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 09:12 PM
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From: Space Coast, FL
Originally Posted by handy911
thanks all for the info...

first, I wiped down the area with MF cloth soaked in a warm water

then, just sprayed and wiped the 303 with new and dry MF towel...when the fading did not go away, I sprayed more 303..then I realized that it got worse...

the fading used to be on top of the airbag lining area (like most people had), now it sort of spreads into near the center display...(Sorry no picture, I am at work)

did I do something wrong with 303?
did you read the directions, do not directly spray onto surface, spray onto towel and then wipe
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