NighthawkBlue

1st off Props to all the detailers who have contributed to the board.

Black 2001 CLS
Objective: switch from wax to a synthetic polymer as recommended by vasu
https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/ultimate-car-care-faq-273425/
(said to be better for all our cars but especially black/dark ones)

The 1st step to strip off what is currently on the car, correct? And in doing so what is the best way? I cannot find the thread, but vasu pm'd me:

"Dawn will strip wax off (carnuba based/natural stuff), but it wont strip off old polymers (Zaino, NXT, FF, etc). As one poster said, if you really wanna strip off a polymer, just wipe the car down after you wash it with car shampoo, with a alcohol/water solution (i think the ratio was posted in that thread)" vasu has since said do not use Dawn as several other detailers agree it messes up paint. Back to the alchohol/water mixture...

Anyone got that ratio? Is alchohol water the best step 1?
step 2 being to clay?

I'm interested in hiring one of you pro detailers, however i would like to do what i can myself. After claying, does car need to immediately be polished? Logistics could make it that after i clayed, you could not get to car for a week. Is that a no-no?

picus

If you're using off the shelf 70% rubbing alcohol mix it 50:50 with water and you'll be good to go. Claying and then polishing a week later is fine, but you'll want to wash the car after you clay or you'll have residue, and it kind of defeats the purpose since your car will be picking up contaminants while unprotected for that week. It won't harm the paint though, if that's what you're asking.

Hawhyen51

There's a difference of opinion regarding the use of Dawn. There are a some that do use it and are others that don't. Check this thread about how much Dawn to use. There are several more threads like this one.

There are products available to strip the existing coat of wax. You can use a paint prep and the first one I could think of is Griot's. I'm sure there are other products that serve the same purpose. Claying and polishing will also remove residual wax and buildup.

The alcohol/water mix (50/50) is basically used to wipe down vehicle to remove residual dusting, oils and fillers left from from polishing. This will enable a product to bond to the finished surface in your case a sealant. Using the mixture isn't always necessary and usually depends on the product you're using. The process also allows you to see the area you're working on has the desired result.

Your last question about polishing. If you know you're gonna do an exterior detail, allow yourself time to polish, preferably the same day. You can apply the LSP (sealant, wax) the following day. The choice is yours. It's easier to wipe down a car after it's polished and there will be some sort of protection on the surface.

FYI, just an enthusiast and not a pro ......

NighthawkBlue

So what would be my steps order IYO, to go from wax to polymer.
See my concern is how far down do i need to go/strip before i begin putting stuff ON. I'm trying to get in touch with detailer who 2 years ago stripped and applyed to find out exactly what was put on. I know he did a 7 step process, of which polishing was a definite step. He said he went down in order to get "to a fresh coat of paint".
Nothing you say can, or will be used against you.

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exceldetail

Wash with auto soap, not Dawn. It has no place in auto detailing.....PERIOD.
Clay if necessary.
Polish. Product choice is dependant upon needs and expectations. This will remove your existing layer(s) of protection, and is all that is necessary.
Glaze, if desired. Can contribute to additional depth, and fill small scratches, but normally will also limit a polymers true ability to crosslink (bond). This is a key component in a Polymers longevity.
Seal with your desired Polymer.

dsianand

Will paint cleaner strips off the wax? I'm referring to Meg's 1st step product. Thanks.

dsianand

I just remembered reading somewhere that claying also remove previous wax as well, is this true?

exceldetail

Yes, it will remove a portion of protection.....Any paint cleaner will remove the sealant, more thoroughly then Dawn could, and much safer as well.......

dsianand

Thank you, I really appreciate it.

Pete TSX

exceldetail:

My car was treated with Pro-Tech Seal's Paint Gard which is a synthetic polymer. Supposedly it creates a teflon-like protective layer against stone chips, etc. and eliminates the need for waxing.

Is there any advantage in using a quick detailer like Meguiar's to enhance the gloss?

Hawhyen51

Is Pro Tech Paint Gard a paint protection package from the dealer? IMHO, I don't think there is a product that provides longevity/durability, damage protection and no waxing as an all in one package. Most sealants will last approx 3-4 months before reapplying. And that's factoring in your weekly carcare regime (wash, QD, etc.). If I'm wrong, I'm pretty much sure I'll hear aobut it. For an interesting read, here's a link to a previously posted article about dealer options.

As far as protection from road debris, you are still prone to rock chips. The sealant may,but highly unlikely minimize the damage. One sure way to prevent that is the use of Paint Protection Film (PPF) and commonly known as clearbra. There are a lot of threads on this subject matter - do a search.
QD/ID products will prolong the longevity and durability of the sealant/wax. It will restore depth and clarity as well as enhance the gloss and add some slickness to your finish. Check out Autopia's "Quick Detailing Your Car" article. You should use one that has UV protection.

Hawhyen51

The steps listed by exceldetail incoporates the basic requirements you need.
1. Wash
2. Clay (as required)
3. Polish
4. Glaze (optional)
5. Seal
6. Wax (optional) a great number of folks like use a 'nuba like S100, Natty's, Pinnacle Souveran, P21S as final layer.

Pete TSX

Thanks for the feedback, Hawhyen51.

Another question.... how do you tell when the polymer sealent has worn off and needs to be reapplied?

Hawhyen51

Pete, check post #2 #4 of this thread. Pretty much a judgement call as there's no hard and fast rule. I usually reapply a sealant about 3-4 months and wax 4-5 weeks, weekly wash with PB SG/QW+ in between. For me, just an easier way to protect the finish.

Pete TSX

Hawhyen51:

You wax over the sealant?

exceldetail

Yes, you "can" wax over a sealant. Make sure your using a pure Nuba though. Anything with cleaners in it will compromise the sealants durability......

Hawhyen51

Thanks, Patrick

exceldetail

I owed ya one Danny !!

NighthawkBlue

Hawhyen51 and exceldetail

Thank you for the 1-6 steps detail.

At what step is the 70% alchohol mixed with water 50-50 applied?

exceldetail

Some people like to use it to remove any sealant, prior to trying another sealant. It will remove Nubas and Polymers. Another use for it is to remove any oils remaining after polishing, so the surface is sterile for the sealant.

graphicguy

Used to detail cars in college and during summers to support myself. Had a pretty good biz going until I graduated. I had detailed over 400 cars (not including my own) and had lots of repeat business. I did everything from 'vettes, to Porsches, to Benzs, to JAGs....some of them classics. I used to do 4-5 cars per weekend, at a minimum of $100/car. It took me 4 hours to do one car. Point being, I used a lot of different products and procedures. Not meaning to "dis" anyone else's procedure products or experience, but....

Dawn blue (regular Dawn) is fine to strip wax and won't hurt the finish. Certainly, you don't want to use it as a regular car wash, but whenever you want to strip old wax/polymers/grime/, etc. it will work fine. That would be step #1.

#2--clay the finish. Don't have to use a lot of pressure, just make sure you use plenty of lube. If you do it in on a cool day, in a dry space, I would wash the car, leave it wet, and then clay it using the water as your lube. If some places dry out, use a mixture of CAR soap (not dawn) and water mixed in a spary bottle as additional lubricant.

#3--wash the car again with whatever car soap you prefer. That gets any clay/contaminant remnants off the finish. Dry the car (use 100% cotton towels, THE ABSORBER synthetic chamois, or some good microfiber towels preferably, the waffle weave variety).

#4--WAX. If the car has swirls, you might want to use a light polishing compound to get the swirls out first. Plenty of those on the market. Just remember, polishing compounds are used only to get the swirls out, not to protect the finish. If you have just slight or no swirls, use whatever wax you like as a sealant....carnuba or polymers. Personally, I prefer the polymers since they last so much longer and leave a wet, clear shine. Polymers can be layered using multiple coats to deepen the shine. Carnubas only last weeks before they should be reapplied, but give a more "organic" look to the shine.

#5--detail spray. Again, lots of these on the market, but it's better to use the ones that are made by the same company that produces the wax you used since the chemicals from different brands may not be compatible.

#6--while a lot of companies promise a 6 month shine, few can live up to the claim. Carnubas can't. Good polymers CAN. A good waxing every 3 months is always a good idea, no matter what you use.

As far as what I prefer, I've used everything grom turtle wax to Zymol (expensive stuff...not the cheap stuff you find at Pep Boys). I'm a huge fan of Zaino. It does what they say it'll do and it lasts longer than anything I've ever used. It's not cheap, but very high quality. Plus, used as directed, I've yet to find a better shine that what Zaino produces.

Hope that helps.

Vicman17

You can also use it in between passes when you use a swirl remover to remove dust or residue.