scratches in paint
scratches in paint
i have a black cl and there is a lot of scratches in the paint. it almost seems like the swirl marks that dominate the car are mostly scratches. really fine scratches. what can i use to remove these scratches and restore the cars paint with a nice deep shine. my ultimate goal is to get rid of the scratches, swirl marks, and make the car shine like new. any input is appreciated. thanks in advance.
is there any way of doing w/o a porter cable cuz i dont have one. what does this speed glaze do? what items would i need to give my car an ultimate detail to make it shine and prtoected. i've read a little about Klasse and i am very interested in this product.
Klasse products will only remove minor swirls.
You will need a good polish, this will remove a thin layer of paint. After the polish, you can use Klasse products for a shine.
Be prepare to buff like crazy by hand.
You will need a good polish, this will remove a thin layer of paint. After the polish, you can use Klasse products for a shine.
Be prepare to buff like crazy by hand.
Wax is a last step product, you want to use it last.
1)Wash
2)Polish
3)Wax
Klasse A-I-O will prep the paint then use Klasse SG for protection. SG is a synthetic wax, it'll last longer than carnauba wax. So Klasse probably falls under the wax category.
1)Wash
2)Polish
3)Wax
Klasse A-I-O will prep the paint then use Klasse SG for protection. SG is a synthetic wax, it'll last longer than carnauba wax. So Klasse probably falls under the wax category.
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Originally Posted by Alin10123
What's the difference between the 7424 and the 7336?
The machines are the same, the difference are the counter weights included. I don't have one but apparently you can have either and just obtain the necessary counterweight for use with a certain sized backing pad. I think it explains it here.
As far as your swirls, they are almost so common in dark colored cars. ALL cars have them, only that dark colors tend to make them more obvious. The daily exposure to dust, dirt, sand, salt, etc cause infinitesimal scratches on the surface of the clearcoat, going in different directions, and reflects light in a certain ways causing what seems to be "spider webs".
The only resolution is to have a professional with the proper equipment go over the surface and try to even out the surface of the clearcoat. Deeper scratches may still be obvious. Most of the stuff you can buy in stores don't really remove scratches but just hides them.
If you venture into using a PC buffer, you also have to understand how to use different grades of pads combined with compounds of different grades of abrasiveness and also the proper speed setting of the buffer in order to do the job right, otherwise the damage may be irreversible.
Try Meguiar's ScratchX sold on a tube. It is primarily done by hand and sometimes does a good job (depending again on how deep the scratches are).
Klasse is pretty good. It's a Sealant that lasts longer than just wax (usually a few months). Using just wax, Carnauba or synthetic, lasts only a few weeks. I use several coats of Klasse SG on top of the AIO, then I use P21S pure Carnauba on a weekly basis as a topper to enhance the shine. I hand apply everything with a foam applicator then buff with a orbital buffer using a MF bonnet.
Originally Posted by Vicman17
The only resolution is to have a professional with the proper equipment go over the surface and try to even out the surface of the clearcoat. Deeper scratches may still be obvious. Most of the stuff you can buy in stores don't really remove scratches but just hides them.
You can get rid of these marks yourself, but you will need a good polisher. The PC is an excellent choice because it is really difficult to screw things up.
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I'd say if there are a lot of scratches #80 may not be strong enough. I'd try #83, then follow up w/ #80 to remove some of the marring #83 may cause.
If you're wondering what Clpower is referring to as #80 and #83, here's a link that tells you.
http://www.autopia.org/display.php?f...yms.htm&menu=8
http://www.autopia.org/display.php?f...yms.htm&menu=8
so then,
scratch x is not a good way to begin the swirl/scratch removal process. i should use the dual action cleaner/polisher then go to the speed glaze?? what if i wanted to u klasse products for the waxing step, would that be okay?
1. wash
2. #83 then #80
or no #80
3.klasse aio then klasse galze
how do theses steps look^^
scratch x is not a good way to begin the swirl/scratch removal process. i should use the dual action cleaner/polisher then go to the speed glaze?? what if i wanted to u klasse products for the waxing step, would that be okay?
1. wash
2. #83 then #80
or no #80
3.klasse aio then klasse galze
how do theses steps look^^
Originally Posted by Brewmaster
I agree with everything the Vicman said except for the quote above. I had quite a few swirls in my 3GTL from last season (my own fault). Early April I used a PC with Menzerna polishes and all swirls and microscratches are gone. There are two deeper scratches that are still visible but much less so than they were.
You can get rid of these marks yourself, but you will need a good polisher. The PC is an excellent choice because it is really difficult to screw things up.
You can get rid of these marks yourself, but you will need a good polisher. The PC is an excellent choice because it is really difficult to screw things up.
My apologies. I wasn't able to clarify my comment.
Although the PC can be easily obtained, most resort to hand applied products (like ScratchX or plain old Rubbing Compound). Like what you said, the deeper scratches could still be obvious. Using a tool like the PC polisher can round out the edges of the scratches making them reflect light differently to make it less noticeable. I also understood that diminishing abrasive products like Meg's #83 DACP properly applied with a PC can give phenomenal results removing the micro scratches and "hiding" deeper scratches. I have noted first hand that when DACP was applied and the car was washed prior to applying wax or sealant, the fillers were washed away and revealed some of the deeper scratches that seemed to have been rectified by the PC.
On this same note, I do believe that ScratchX, which was designed as a hand-applied product works on the same principle of "hiding" some of the deeper scratches. That until the product wears off and some of the scratches re-appear.
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