So I tried to polish my car with a Makita machine and some problems appeared. I tried using the machine since my car has a lot of heavy swirl marks. I tried a heavy cut pad, but I noticed that sometimes the polish won't come off in some spots and it also left buffer trails. The swirl marks are also still there but got rid of the heavier ones. I also worked my way down into the lighter pads as well. If there any way I can correct this? Am I doing something wrong here? Any input and advice would be great.

 

1st timer with the rotary?

 

Yeah first time.

 

Looks like you learned the hard way...
Iam by no means a rotary expert. However, rotary polishing is not what most of us refer to on here. We speak a lot about polishes, compounds, polishing and cutting pads, but the majority of it is referenced towards a dual action orbital. Results with a rotary are far different!
You can usually use a less aggressive pad, as the action of the rotary adds additional heat to the surface, thus increasing the speed in which a polish breaks down.
I would readdress your areas of concern at about 800 rpms, with a light polishing pad, and a light polish. Then hit it again, with a finishing pad and if possible, a lighter polish. You have to keep the rotary moving on the surface!!!
Rotary's obviously aren't as forgiving as dual action orbitals. Ive cleaned many a messes up from rotary machines, with a dual action orbital......
The halograms are a results of either too abrasive a polish, and not enough working time to allow sufficient breakdown, too abrasive of a pad with no follow up, or a combination of the two.
Looks like you have learned a hard lesson!

 

Rotaries take quite some time to learn and can definitely harm your paint if you aren't too careful. I would definitely suggest in investing in a PC, G110, or even a Flex 3401. That way when you're truly ready for the rotary, you can correct with the rotary and finish with the PC/G110/Flex 3401.

 

Ah I see. I guess I didn't know the difference. Definitely learned the hard way. But thanks guy for the input. I will look into the PC.

 

I forgot about the other question I had. As I was polishing, there were some spots that the polish won't come off. Why is that.

 

The polish wouldn't come off at all or it just took a lot of effort to remove? You may have been running the rotary too fast on the RPMs and may have caused whatever compound or polish to dry up on the paint. In result, this may have induced additional marring from running a very dry pad on your vehicle's paint.

Of course, it could be something else but that's just my educated guess from what information you have provided. Hope this answers your question.

 

Some parts took some effort to remove but some parts I would try to remove it but it just wouldn't come off. Maybe I had the RPM too fast.

 

You could try this -
Using a Sliding Scale 600-900-1200 rpm- commence by setting the speed to 600 rpm, then adjust to 900rpm culminating at 1200rpm then descend to 900rpm and finish at 600rpm; linear speed should be 2 – 3 inch per second (IPS) 1200 rpm is where most of the paint surface defects will be removed. There probably will be some polishing defects (holograms, etc) by descending the sliding scale (1200-900-600rpm) you will remove these and any other minor defects (See also Compounding / Polishing)

But a Rotary Polisher requires lots of practice, and the best thing to practice on is a panel from the local vehicle scrap yard

Also see article -http://detailingwiki.com/index.php5?...ary_Usage_Tips

 

I do all my work with a makita. Then again I've been using the same machine for almost 4 years now with professional training and experience under my belt... they are no picnic but with a properly trained operator can turn out a wonderful finish.