I searched for a long time but I couldn't really find an answer. My car is WDP, and I got the car used so there were a bunch of imperfections in the paint. I have been just trying to improve it as much as possible within my budget. I have the Mothers 1-2-3 combination. My issue is that with the car being white and the products being whitish in color, it is hard for me to tell when it has dried to a haze, and I think I am wiping it off before it fully does the job. Any tips for how to tell when it has hazed over?

Thanks!

 

i think your over thinking the process...put the wax/polish on and take it off...one section at a time...by the time it takes you to finish putting a coat on a fender or hood or whatever section your working on its time to take it off...

 

Depending on the temperature and the amount you applied the above post is right ..

Rule of thumb I use for most OTC products if its 50F or above is do the hood and a fender then remove 1/2 the hood .. apply to a door .. remove the other 1/2 the hood .. apply to a door .. remove the fender. etc etc .

For specialty sealants RTFM and use the suggested time temp.


Use a pattern to apply the product;... I use the yellow foam applicators and apply in a circular pattern overlapping 50% as I go left to right and 50% of the row above.

When I remove I use only plush M/F towels and always wipe off in str8 lines as the wind flows over the car .. in other words front to back.

This might be a little harder on the arms and use a couple more towels but reduces the visibility of micro marring.

Hope this helps ..

I have WDP too ..

 

I agree, I let it normally settle for about ten minutes between coats, I have PWP, I know what you mean it’s hard to tell when the wax has hazed over, especially with light coats of wax which are recommended.

 

What wax you using?

 

Thanks guys!

 

On my old car, which was pearl white, i used to get the car wet again. I would use the hose, and just saturate all areas of the paint. Normally the residual stuff would show its face then. I would dry around those areas quickly to mark them off, and then remove all the residual product on the car. I dont know if this is always a good idea, as some waxes/polishes recommend that no water is involved, and if there is a good reason for this aside from reduced effectiveness, i would obviously not reccomend this. I am not product specialist however, so hopefully what ive said is not BAD advice!
Hope it helps
take care
Mark

 

Most sealants don't like water for the first 24 hours as they cure .. not so much for waxes .