Ok so a few weeks back I posted a link https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/08-tl-s-paint-saved-merry-christmas-me-802422/when I corrected the paint on my car, during the process using the most aggressive polish I had which was detail addicts 1000 grit, with an Orange Medium polish pad I got about a 95% - 97% correction However there are still a few swirls at certain angles on panels...

would upgrading to a more aggressive polish pad, or a surbuf cutting pad due the trick to get the full 100% ? and if so what pad should I go with...

Note: after hitting the car with 1000 grit, I buffed it out with this order 1500, 2500 final polish, did I need to due it in that order or could I have gone from the 1000 grit correction and straight to the final 2500 polish to bring out the shine?

Thanks in advance.

 

The silence is deafening....

 

I'm a beginner as well.
I was taught least aggressive first, if the least aggressive combo aint working....step it up.

 

This I did as well, but once you get to the most aggressive application the paint is dull and hazed, so it needs to be polished out... so my question is do I need to do the exact reverse order, or can I skip right to the last 2500 grit ( least abrasive) polish to get the bright shine?

Basically I am trying to find out if I can skip one step and save a lot of time... if this would hinder the results I wouldnt do it but I figured Id ask you guys before I tried it.

Does that make sense ? lol

 

Try it out, and report back.

its all a learning experience.

 

Try not to take it personally. This section is a graveyard during the winter months.

 

Because weekend warriors like us aren't doing details, lol.

 

Removing more that 0.5 mil (12µ) of clear coat will cause premature paint film failure as the ultra violet (UV) protection percolates to the top of the clear coat, there is (UV) protection all the way through the paint, but the majority of it migrates to the top of the clear coat along with the thinner solvents and particles.

Therefore removing clear coat ultra violet protection is not a linear process; by removing a small percentage of the clear coat paint tends to remove a larger percentage of UV inhibitors. So once you remove too much clear coat you'll have no paint UV protection other than what you apply with a LSP

Paint renovation detailers can restore the finish on a car with paint correcting polishes; however there are some defects that are too deep to be repaired.

There comes a point when you must judge wither removing a scratch will compromise the clear coat (0.5 Mil >) and if so you’ll have to ‘live’ with the imperfection (these can be aesthetically masked by using a Glaze)

 

Ok so with that being said, how often should I polish and wax the car... and each time I polish how much clear does it remove on average?

 

Not a lot, unless you're using really harsh abrasive compounds each time, but you still have to be careful

 

Additionally, if you use proper washing techniques, you can help keep swirls to a minimum and reduce the amount of polishing you have to do.

 

ah ok..

 

wouldnt keeping up with a fresh couple of layers of sealants and nubas on the car help keep from getting swirl marks as well?

 

It certainly wouldn't hurt.

 

Or the forum is messed up and us Canucks are having a hard time posting or even reading the threads. Been that way for a few weeks now .

 

I would say somewhat..yes, but it still all depends on your wash/dry process.

I think it's all personal preference on what you can live with as far as any defects in your paint. I don't think I "need" to polish more than once a year (maybe twice), but if I do re-polish it's only a spot polish here and there..not the whole car.

I don't think you would cause any harm in applying multiple layers of sealant/wax. Just be sure to know if the products you are using can be layered and how much time to wait between adding another layer.

 

ah ok.. thanks.. any idea if p21s can be layered, does not say on the tub.

 

From what I understand .. no.