How to tell if you went through the clearcoat?
05-10-2010, 02:28 AM
#1
How to tell if you went through the clearcoat?
I was trying out my new 4in Orange Pad with my PC with Optimum Polish II on a scratch. It was my first time using this combo, the scratch is gone. But the paint is a little lighter than the rest of the car, it now looks like a spot. I haven't had a chance to take a picture. When I run my finger across it, it doesn't feel as smooth as rest of the car. Although I have since applied Poli-seal and 4UPP over the entire car and that spot.
Also my orange pad which was new, was sort of dark in the middle (like it was dirty) and the pad was a bit warm. So I'm assuming that I burn through the clear and the dark spot on the pad is paint?
Can you guys tell me how the car is suppose to feel and look like if I've gone through the clear coat.
Thanks.
Also my orange pad which was new, was sort of dark in the middle (like it was dirty) and the pad was a bit warm. So I'm assuming that I burn through the clear and the dark spot on the pad is paint?
Can you guys tell me how the car is suppose to feel and look like if I've gone through the clear coat.
Thanks.
05-10-2010, 03:02 AM
#2
Evil Mazda Driver
I honestly can't say I've ever heard of anybody burning through the paint with a random orbital. You'd have to be pretty boneheaded to do with a rotary but as far as I know, doing it with a DA is pretty much impossible unless you're working on supremely thin or weak paint. The difference in feel you're noticing is probably from the oils in the polish you used. I know after I use Menzerna products the paint feels stiff and that is due to the mineral carriers in the polishes.
A picture would be helpful in identifying if this is indeed burn-though which I doubt it is.
A picture would be helpful in identifying if this is indeed burn-though which I doubt it is.
05-10-2010, 03:27 AM
#3
The Old Grey Whistle Test
[Can you guys tell me how the car is suppose to feel and look like if I've gone through the clear coat]
Strikethrough (Paint burn)
Basically when friction heat (kinetic force) has compromised the clear coat and exposed the base coat. Paint often looks a slightly lighter colour; it’s usually concentrated on a small area or ‘spot ‘that may not feel as smooth as the surrounding areas
Areas of risk- bumpers, as they don’t conduct heat like metal panels, edges an seams and the paint in these areas is generally thin (masking tape is good insurance) Applying pressure and holding the polisher stationary for too long will cause friction heat to be concentrated, especially with a foam pad.
Strikethrough (Paint burn)
Basically when friction heat (kinetic force) has compromised the clear coat and exposed the base coat. Paint often looks a slightly lighter colour; it’s usually concentrated on a small area or ‘spot ‘that may not feel as smooth as the surrounding areas
Areas of risk- bumpers, as they don’t conduct heat like metal panels, edges an seams and the paint in these areas is generally thin (masking tape is good insurance) Applying pressure and holding the polisher stationary for too long will cause friction heat to be concentrated, especially with a foam pad.
Last edited by TOGWT; 05-10-2010 at 03:32 AM.
05-10-2010, 07:26 AM
#4
Former Sponsor
Usually lightened paint is a good indicator that the CC has been compromised. And, it tends to happen on areas that are scratched as opposed to lightly swirled. Simply due to the fact that one needs to spend more time on deeper imperfections? We sometimes get so tuned in on scratch removal that we overlook the fact that the CC is being minimized in fairly short order.
Im not familiar with any differences in the way the paint feels though.......
Im not familiar with any differences in the way the paint feels though.......
05-10-2010, 10:18 AM
#5
[Can you guys tell me how the car is suppose to feel and look like if I've gone through the clear coat]
Strikethrough (Paint burn)
Basically when friction heat (kinetic force) has compromised the clear coat and exposed the base coat. Paint often looks a slightly lighter colour; it’s usually concentrated on a small area or ‘spot ‘that may not feel as smooth as the surrounding areas
Areas of risk- bumpers, as they don’t conduct heat like metal panels, edges an seams and the paint in these areas is generally thin (masking tape is good insurance) Applying pressure and holding the polisher stationary for too long will cause friction heat to be concentrated, especially with a foam pad.
Strikethrough (Paint burn)
Basically when friction heat (kinetic force) has compromised the clear coat and exposed the base coat. Paint often looks a slightly lighter colour; it’s usually concentrated on a small area or ‘spot ‘that may not feel as smooth as the surrounding areas
Areas of risk- bumpers, as they don’t conduct heat like metal panels, edges an seams and the paint in these areas is generally thin (masking tape is good insurance) Applying pressure and holding the polisher stationary for too long will cause friction heat to be concentrated, especially with a foam pad.
Sounds exactly what I did, I was holding the PC way too long in one spot to try to remove the scratch. Any ideas on how to fix the spot?
Usually lightened paint is a good indicator that the CC has been compromised. And, it tends to happen on areas that are scratched as opposed to lightly swirled. Simply due to the fact that one needs to spend more time on deeper imperfections? We sometimes get so tuned in on scratch removal that we overlook the fact that the CC is being minimized in fairly short order.
Im not familiar with any differences in the way the paint feels though.......
Im not familiar with any differences in the way the paint feels though.......
05-10-2010, 12:48 PM
#7
Senior Moderator
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
Regional Coordinator
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05-10-2010, 01:21 PM
#9
I did a quick search on google and it looks like the only way to correct it is through wetsanding and mixing some clear back into the process.
The other thing I read was using Meguirs #7 or #9 to lessen the effect. But I'm not sure how that will help.
The other thing I read was using Meguirs #7 or #9 to lessen the effect. But I'm not sure how that will help.
05-10-2010, 02:49 PM
#10
Former Sponsor
05-10-2010, 04:19 PM
#11
Thanks for the insight Pat! Just a side note are you still a vendor of AZ? Can we still get a discount?
I would like to order a few items.
05-10-2010, 09:43 PM
#13
Wow the new page looks awesome Pat Congrats! I think I need to take a picture of my possible clear coat burn. I just went back to the car and I ran my finger across the surface and it's still smooth but just discolored. Could this just be hazing? I came to a conclusion it was clear coat burn because my new orange pad was darken like it was dirty. So I assumed it was paint.
05-11-2010, 10:23 AM
#15
2003 TL-S w/Navi NBP
Maybe you used too high of an RPM, too aggressive of a pad, or not enough compound (i.e., the pad became bare). These are probably scratches causing a dull look, so maybe a less aggressive scratch-removing polish might get them out.
A question for the group, though: can't clear coat be reapplied with an air gun?
A question for the group, though: can't clear coat be reapplied with an air gun?
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