I have read through different threads here and one of the posts recommended leaving a polymer on for as long as 24-hrs and then to add additional layers for additional amounts of time.

I just purchased Mother's Reflections Polymer and it did not provide any specifics as to how long to keep it on before rubbing it off. I even checked the website and there was no info. I ended up leaving it on for around 3-hrs. Any ideas if this is enough time to be effective? Any idea how long this will last on the car for?

Thanks!!!

 

After application, the paint solidifies and becomes tack-free. Depending on the type of binder, this hardening may be a result of curing by evaporation, or polymerization. Polymerization is a process of reacting monomer molecules together in a chemical reaction to form three-dimensional networks of polymer chains.

Avoid were possible any moisture as the active ingredients (i.e. what is left behind in the form of a film after application) will be diluted or washed out, negatively affecting its durability. That's why you should avoid rain, even morning dew with any curing sealant layers for at least 12-72 hours(product dependent). So, when you spray water on to a curing sealant, you are compromising its durability.


{Knowledge; don't ever stop learning; [always keeping an open mind]

 

After reading the post, I think you're referring to the amount of time a product has to remain on prior to removal. The product does not require a 12-24 hour dwell time. You can wipe off the residue when the product dries (15-30 min). However, there is a cure time before applying another layer. At this point the vehicle should avoid any moisture as TOGWT previously stated.

The duration of a polymer can average anywhere from 10-12 weeks and with regular upkeep maybe longer. I've always used a QD after every wash and every 4-6 weeks, I'll use a spray wax like OCW or UPPS.

 

Removal time can also vary depending on weather and humidity. You'll find warm, dry weather is your best friend, but not always the case. I worked on a Camry Saturday while it was raining outside. The Optimum Compound I used was slightly more tacky, due to high humidity, but the Four Star UPP performed flawlessley....I probably spent 45 minutes applying the product all around, then did some interior work, and wheels/tires, then removed the UPP about 1.75 hrs later. Then topped with an additional layer of UPPS (Owner request).
You have to learn to "just not be in a hurry"....everything always comes out better when you have the time, and take the time.....

 

Thanks for the replies.

I did mean to ask how long the polymer should stay on the car before being wiped off.

Will one layer/coat of this polymer on the car be sufficient for Los Angeles weather? Is there any real added benefit to adding a 2nd or 3rd coat to the car?

Thanks!!!!

 

Layering continues to be a debatable topic. Check out some of the other detailing forums regarding layering and you'll probably see about a 50/50 split. You can also check out this thread about layering. I think 2-3 is suffucient. The tendency/practice is to apply the initial layer, then follow with another layer to ensure even coverage and a final layer to complete the sealing process.

 

the benefit of additional layers would be to guarantee full/equal coverage over the vehicle. some people feel "layering" of the product increases durability...but layering is a whole separate discussion.

 

I'm about to give my first detaial a try this weekend and will be using some Klasse AIO as my sealent. I assume the same rule applies to me 15-30 minutes before I can wipe off the excess and apply my P21 carnuba? I'm excited--and little nervours about the first time on the PC. Slow is good as far as I'm concerned

 

AIO's better attribute is its cleaning ability. The protection it provides is just an added benefit but not really anything contributable to what i would call a sealant. I believe, If my eyes were right, you live in the midwest, where winter is setting its grip. Stay on top with that P21s/S100. The AIO is a decent base, but not nearly enough for whats heading your way for the next twelve weeks.....
As for AIO with a PC, I wouldnt magine any other way of applying it. You might as well get maximum benefit for cleaning ability. What type of pad?

 

I guess I'm not entirely sure yet--I've got a light orange cutting pad (which I thought I'd use with a swirl remover (any suggestions?), then I have a white polishing pad (maybe for the Klasse?). I also have a black finishing paid... though I think I might just apply the P21S by hand. If you think the Klasse is a bit light for this area, would two coats suffice? ---been reading your posts for a while, thanks for all the tips so far.

 

For first time users I would suggest Optimum Polish, easy to work with and great results. The PB SSR line is another one I would look into as well as the Four Star Body Shop SMR.

If your white pad is for light polishing/cleaning, then applying AIO will be a breeze. For LSPs, I prefer hand application and removal then follow up with a MF bonnett. Finishing pads (black/gray) works great for applying waxex/sealants. As Exceldetail previously stated, AIO is regarded more of a cleaner than a sealant. P21S/S100 is a 'nuba which will give you protection but not the durability of a sealant like SG.

 

You could top the AIO with SG...

 

So since I already have the Klasse AIO, here's what I'm thinking: After wash, clay, etc., use Optimum polish to remove some light swirling and holograms, coat of Klasse AIO, and then finish with the DG111 and top with P21S wax. Sound like a decent step process? Can I / should I leave anything out? How long should I wait between products--15-30min or longer? Thanks.

 

The AIO isnt going to provide anything the Optimum Polish or 111 wont. So skip the AIO. Then 111, wait one day, then hit it with the Nattys Nuba (If you so desire)........

 

I'm going to place an order through to you momentarily for the Optimum Polish and some DG111... I'm not sure if I'll have the time to wait a day to apply the P21S--what's the minimum amount of time one should wait between sealent and wax?

 

12 ours under ideal conditions (Warm and dry).

 

is there a carnuba wax I could use after using NXT wax to bring better durability and depth of shine and gloss?

 

A Nuba better then NXT? About the only one that comes to mind would be Collinite.

 

There are a number of paste waxes that will work . . . . . Natty's, P21S/S100 . . . . Also DP MaxWax and One Grand Blitz Wax. Just a matter of picking one .....

 

ok so if I put on another coat of NXT and then one of these paste waxes overtop it should deepen the shine and bring longer protection?

 

Well, thats the opinion of others. In my experience, I have never really noticed a difference in appearance. There may be an initial increase in slickness, but its a nuba, so it will be short lived.
I dont understand how a Nuba could penetrate a Polys seal, and make a difference. And........thats my opinion.

 

I've been putting P21s over NXT for about a year now, and it could be psycological, but I feel that there is a little more depth to my paint as opposed to using NXT alone.
However, the benefits may be a little more noticable on my Black CL-S as opposed to other paint colors

I will continue with this process, even though the advantages seem minimal...

 

Theres nothing more important then your own obseravtion.....

 

Although, AIO wouldn't be the best for a final coat. What about Klasse's High Gloss Sealant Glaze? That's what I'm planning on my last step.

What I'm planning for this weekend.. (and these are pretty much the only products I have) is...

1) Optimum Compound (for swirls)
2) Megs Deep Crystal Paint cleaner (lighter swirls)
3) Megs Deep Crystal Polish (final polish)
4) Klasse Sealant Glaze (2 coats)

~fin

uhh and this may sound kind of dumb but do I apply all of these with my PC?

Erasure Pads:
1) yellow
2) orange
3) blue
4) blue

 

You didn't state how bad the swirling is on your car ...... I think the yellow would be too extreme, I would try the orange with the OC, then follow up with the blue for a final polish. The DC Paint Cleaner is non abrasive and will probably "fill" than remove swirls. SG would be the last step product.