OK, guys & gals, please inform me how to remove hard water spots from the paint. What product(s) do I need and will I need an orbital buffer? Thanks for your help.

 

Try white vinegar on a clean white soft cotton towel. Should do the trick, unless it's etched the clearcoat. Then you're looking at a lot of work with an orbital/rotary polisher.

 

if it has burned through the clear coat....sorry, nothin you can do, but if it hasnt, you're goin to need a high speed buffer and several step to remove them, or at least cover them up....if you do not have any experience with a high speed buffer, i recommend you take it to get professionally done, because if u do it yourself, and dont really know what u're doing, you could burn the paint, create swirl marks, etc,etc....oh and whatever u do...dont put vinegar on the paint

 

Oh would you please shut the fuck up.

You have no clue what you are talking about. Vinegar has been used for years to remove hard water stains, but you'd know that wouldn't you. You see hard water stains, or water spots are made up of calcium and other deposits in tap water. The acetic acid in vinegar safely removes them.

Hey I think this is bdheilig back to show his detailing prowess.

 

damn, arent we hostile today.....nsxnext, whats the deal? so i have a different opinion than u, and u wanna get all profane and what not lol....arent u the same guy that wanted to wash his car with dishwash soap? seems like a lot of people like using household products on their car....but hey, its your car, go ahead, use vinegar....i've also heard that cream cheese can remove carpet stains and that bleach is really good to use on glass...smooches!

 

I'd buy the buffer anyhow...

Sears has em, $49 bucks.

 

Ok, I'm not picking sides here, but i tried Vinegar on the hard water spots on my windows and it did not do a damn thing. Even with numerous treatments.
just my 2 cents on the vinegar issue

 

Chris, I would invest in a nice buffer, like a Cyclo or Porter Cable, it should last you longer, do a better job, plus you'll have better pad selection, which is important.

 

personally...i would not buff it at all. you have such a very small thin clear coat and everytime you buff it your taking a little of that off leaving your paint more vulnerable to the future weather elements...anyways, i suggest u just go with Body Spray Shine and the Clay Bar Technique...just my little 2 cents for ya...

 

Anyone ever tried CLR...???

That stuff works great on shower doors & tubs, etc. It's atleast got to work on glass. Maybe I'll try it on my old car & see what happens.

 

I can't believe I missed out on this thread....

NSXNEXT, I dunno about BDHEILIG coming back, we beat that kid senseless, the last time he was here...LOL

Now lets get started.. see below...LOL

 

Your right and wrong... The buffer from Sears won't cut into the clear coat since it has such a Low RMP, unless your using a high grit cutting compound and pushing like a mad man... Those things are nice for taking off wax and that is about it.. I have 2 of them , A high speed orbital buffer is a good investment.. PORTA-CABLE makes some nice eletric ones.. good 10 inch pads too.
Now if you get into a High RMP speed buffer that runs on compressed air or sometimes electric (but they are sometimes hefty) then you can easily lose the paint on any edges or corners that you buff if your not quick enough.. I don't recommend on our cars unless your a skilled operator.. our paint is poopie too!!!. so be very careful.... Not only burning the paint but you can heat the clear coat up enough and end up making it burn/slide or weaken in spots..

I know everyone loves to save some coin and they want that quick fix, but just go see your local Bodyshop guy and ask, they more about paint and it's characteristics then most peeps on the board.. ya know?.... You don't want to go to the funeral director for an eye operation, you go to the eye doctors for that... Ya catch my drift?.. bad example... but Enjoy..

Smitty

p.s. Listen to NSXNEXT he knows what he is talking about.

 

No dude, according to Katana, I don't know shit.

 

Ya just like you don't go to a car wash and ask them how to maintain your car....D'oh

 

ahh car wash highlighted in bold letters...gotta love it...

 

Smitty...

I love my buffer baby! Craftsman...$49

Can't beat it with a stick.

 

LOL... I use mine often... Some clients I get in have water spots, I bust out the orbital and some acid buffing rain cream and the spots go away instantly... I bought 1 of mine at Wal-mart a (WEN).. works nice... not real loud not real fast in the RPM dept., but it does the trick and saves my elbows from being soar the next day.

Smitty

 

Smitty - care to share the name of this magical elixer and the name of the carny who sells it, and how much it goes for? tks

 

Follow the link on Page 1 that I posted... They carry the product and will ship to your door from my understanding but if you have any problems let me know. I pay a diff. cost then the general pubic.

Smitty

 

uh, ok, but unless you're telling me to check with my local Bodyshop, the only link I saw was www.imagevent.com/smitty/2003acuracls, and I didn't see anything in here with any pertinent reference. What am I missing? tks

 

oooooppps sorry... www.ardexlabs.com/index2.html

it is wholesale.. but i dunno if they made it available to the public.. check and see..

Smitty

 

ok, that's better ... I'm guessing that you're talking about "Cut Clear" since this seems to best match the description of an "acid buffing rain cream" - order form doesn't mention prices, and ordering appears to be by the case. tks anyway.

 

4218 Cut Clear comes in either Quarts or Gallons... I will be going down to the there warehouse shortly (within the next couple weeks).. I will pick some up and send you a little bottle... Do you have an orbital buffer?

Smitty

 

yeah - I do have an orbital which has been unused since the Zaino arrived. That'd be great, as the clay that I did on the CL didn't get all the water spots off before I started the process. Would you recommend Dawning the Zaino off and then using the Cut Clear before beginning the process, or does this stuff just address the area in question? Let me know when it's time and I'll pm you my address. Appreciate it.

 

No need to Dawn anything, just take some car wash mixed in a spray bottle and take your clay to the paint... Now, I want you to do 2 things first.... #1, when you treat a spot you need to do the whole area... Example.. You need to do the whole trunk not just a part of the turnk.... #2, I want you take the hottest water you can find and drop your claybar into it for 15 minutes... Then pull it apart in pieces, ball it up, and then form it and work with it.. Always keep your clay HOTT and always keep turning it..

 

3M™ One Step Cleaner Wax - Light Oxidation Remover (liquid 39006 or paste 39519)

http://www.3m.com/us/auto_marine_aer...terspots.jhtml

I had good results with this on my last car. I believe you need to apply with a machine. I've have not used it on the CL (hard to see water spots on silver) but I will soon.

The bearings in my B&D random took a crap. Anyone know where to find a good deal on a porter cable? How about a good backing plate?

Griots touts their backing plate.

Looks like a special kind of plate from 3M? Won't transfer heat?

http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=10625C

 

Without a doubt, the best deal on a Porter Cable 7424 polisher

PC 7424 Polisher

 

Wow! $126.50 shipped. Thanks!

 

Yup. All the guys on the Autopia board get theirs from here.