Detailed NBP TL process/pic

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Old 03-10-2008, 11:15 PM
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Detailed NBP TL process/pic

I did an exterior detail on my pops ride recently. People wanted a description so here it is. I also didn't take many pics, my lens is dirty and the sun was come and go.

Rinsed really good, washed with dawn, dried.

Clay bared with cheap $10, medium aggressive lay bar. Used water as a lube, constantly rinsed bar and surface. Ended up removing more than expected fine dirt particles, and contaminates.

Buffed with 3M Perfect It II 05973 yellow rubbing compound. Used a nice Dynabrade rotary, 3M cutting pad with waffles on the outer edge too.

Polished to a high gloss with 3M Finesse It Final Finish polish 82878. This is a really good polish, also great on fresh paint as a one step fresh clear polish or a final polish. Used a Flex XC DA orbital polisher with 5 1/2" CCS orange pad.

Applied the Meg's 21 synthetic sealant. Word to wise, spread it out thin, not thick at all, start wiping after 10-15 min.

About 24hr later I finished with Meg's 26 yellow Hi Tech carnuba blend wax. I really like this wax, it cleans up very easy.

Same and only pic.




Here is some of the product I use and my Dynabrade air polisher. BTW, what does OTC mean, I can guess but I don't know any detail lingo?


Old 03-10-2008, 11:23 PM
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Lookin sharp!! Good work

OTC-Over The Counter
Old 03-11-2008, 08:29 AM
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Good job on the TL.
Old 03-11-2008, 10:06 PM
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Looks good from the pic but give us a nice sun pic to really show it off.

I used two coats of #26 over #21 the last time I detailed mine. Very nice look to the paint.

Personally, I would scrap the Dawn and I would definitely use a quick detailer as a clay lube.

Last edited by SweetJazz; 03-11-2008 at 10:08 PM.
Old 03-12-2008, 09:36 AM
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The car is already covered in pollen dust, sucks. I used the dawn to help remove wax and greasy residue on the surface. I read the method somewhere and gave it a whirl. If I'm buffing after clay I always use water, works great for me.

I like the combo so far, I've read that #21 last quite a while if you top coat it with a good wax.

I thought that OTC was over the clear, lol. So OTC means product that can be bought at a common store, does that include online sites? That 3M polish isn't really OTC, it's a PITA to find online, especially in a smaller size, RS Hughs has it though.
Old 03-12-2008, 10:22 AM
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The car is already covered in pollen dust, sucks. I used the dawn to help remove wax and greasy residue on the surface. I read the method somewhere and gave it a whirl. If I'm buffing after clay I always use water, works great for me.
Im a little confused with this statement....

I like the combo so far, I've read that #21 last quite a while if you top coat it with a good wax.
Give it two coats then! Im always stimmied as to why people double coat with something that doesnt last as long as the base coat? I mean two coats of polymer is going to outlast 1x poly and 1 x Nuba, right? As for looks, I have just never been able to distinguish a significant (if any) difference of a nuba protectant vs a synthetic.

I thought that OTC was over the clear, lol. So OTC means product that can be bought at a common store, does that include online sites? That 3M polish isn't really OTC, it's a PITA to find online, especially in a smaller size, RS Hughs has it though.
OTC is "over the counter" a.k.a. Pep Boys, Walmart...anything at the retail level
Old 03-12-2008, 12:56 PM
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I have much more wax then sealant. I could just use it all up, I'll try it next time. Using water instead of spray wax/lube is obviously going to increase the chance of slight minimal marring when claying heavily contaminated areas w/ a more aggressive type clay bar. So if I plan to buff/polish afterwards, I'm all good. I'm no pro detailer, I'm a semi retired pro painter, so I'm still learning all the detail methods and such.
Old 03-13-2008, 12:54 PM
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Do not clay with plain water.... even if you plan to polish afterward. The reason is because you could introduce marring/scratches in places that weren't already marred/scratched. Now, you'll have to polish those areas and thus reduce what little clear coat you already have.

If you don't want to spend money on a lube (e.g. quick detailer), then mix up a bottle of car wash soap and water.

Besides, you don't need to always polish the car if you wash it correctly. And using a proper lube when claying is a part of the proper washing method.
Old 03-13-2008, 04:28 PM
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I've got good enough judgment to know if I'm going to cause additional marring or problems. I should say if the surface has just light swirls that polishing only would remove fast enough, I wouldn't use just water. This new clay bar I have now is pretty aggressive so next time I will try the soap/water tip or find a decent spray lube. This cars exterior isn't cared for that much so it was in bad shape paint wise. Why would anyone always polish a daily every time they wash it?
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