I did an exterior detail on my pops ride recently. People wanted a description so here it is. I also didn't take many pics, my lens is dirty and the sun was come and go.

Rinsed really good, washed with dawn, dried.

Clay bared with cheap $10, medium aggressive lay bar. Used water as a lube, constantly rinsed bar and surface. Ended up removing more than expected fine dirt particles, and contaminates.

Buffed with 3M Perfect It II 05973 yellow rubbing compound. Used a nice Dynabrade rotary, 3M cutting pad with waffles on the outer edge too.

Polished to a high gloss with 3M Finesse It Final Finish polish 82878. This is a really good polish, also great on fresh paint as a one step fresh clear polish or a final polish. Used a Flex XC DA orbital polisher with 5 1/2" CCS orange pad.

Applied the Meg's 21 synthetic sealant. Word to wise, spread it out thin, not thick at all, start wiping after 10-15 min.

About 24hr later I finished with Meg's 26 yellow Hi Tech carnuba blend wax. I really like this wax, it cleans up very easy.

Same and only pic.




Here is some of the product I use and my Dynabrade air polisher. BTW, what does OTC mean, I can guess but I don't know any detail lingo?

 

Lookin sharp!! Good work

OTC-Over The Counter

 

Good job on the TL.

 

Looks good from the pic but give us a nice sun pic to really show it off.

I used two coats of #26 over #21 the last time I detailed mine. Very nice look to the paint.

Personally, I would scrap the Dawn and I would definitely use a quick detailer as a clay lube.

 

The car is already covered in pollen dust, sucks. I used the dawn to help remove wax and greasy residue on the surface. I read the method somewhere and gave it a whirl. If I'm buffing after clay I always use water, works great for me.

I like the combo so far, I've read that #21 last quite a while if you top coat it with a good wax.

I thought that OTC was over the clear, lol. So OTC means product that can be bought at a common store, does that include online sites? That 3M polish isn't really OTC, it's a PITA to find online, especially in a smaller size, RS Hughs has it though.

 

The car is already covered in pollen dust, sucks. I used the dawn to help remove wax and greasy residue on the surface. I read the method somewhere and gave it a whirl. If I'm buffing after clay I always use water, works great for me.
Im a little confused with this statement....

I like the combo so far, I've read that #21 last quite a while if you top coat it with a good wax.
Give it two coats then! Im always stimmied as to why people double coat with something that doesnt last as long as the base coat? I mean two coats of polymer is going to outlast 1x poly and 1 x Nuba, right? As for looks, I have just never been able to distinguish a significant (if any) difference of a nuba protectant vs a synthetic.

I thought that OTC was over the clear, lol. So OTC means product that can be bought at a common store, does that include online sites? That 3M polish isn't really OTC, it's a PITA to find online, especially in a smaller size, RS Hughs has it though.
OTC is "over the counter" a.k.a. Pep Boys, Walmart...anything at the retail level

 

I have much more wax then sealant. I could just use it all up, I'll try it next time. Using water instead of spray wax/lube is obviously going to increase the chance of slight minimal marring when claying heavily contaminated areas w/ a more aggressive type clay bar. So if I plan to buff/polish afterwards, I'm all good. I'm no pro detailer, I'm a semi retired pro painter, so I'm still learning all the detail methods and such.

 

Do not clay with plain water.... even if you plan to polish afterward. The reason is because you could introduce marring/scratches in places that weren't already marred/scratched. Now, you'll have to polish those areas and thus reduce what little clear coat you already have.

If you don't want to spend money on a lube (e.g. quick detailer), then mix up a bottle of car wash soap and water.

Besides, you don't need to always polish the car if you wash it correctly. And using a proper lube when claying is a part of the proper washing method.

 

I've got good enough judgment to know if I'm going to cause additional marring or problems. I should say if the surface has just light swirls that polishing only would remove fast enough, I wouldn't use just water. This new clay bar I have now is pretty aggressive so next time I will try the soap/water tip or find a decent spray lube. This cars exterior isn't cared for that much so it was in bad shape paint wise. Why would anyone always polish a daily every time they wash it?