i really want to clay my car but i heard if u dont know what ur doin with a clar bar u can fuck ur paint up good. how do u use it? plz help. thnxxxxxxxx my car is black and waxin it is hard enough cuz it has to be perfect or u will see tiny spots where the wax didtn buff right. man my arm near falls off by the time im done buffin. but its worth it.

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1997 Black Acura 2.2 CL
Currently-
PIAAs Everywhere, PIAA 1700X, Custom Grill, Clear Corners, OE Spoiler,
5% Tints (Limo), HKS Super Dragger Exhaust, AEM CAI w/Breather,
Venom 400
Comming Soon-
Headers or Ignition, Front Lip
http://members.home.net/vx16

 

The trick with clay can be summed up with one thought -- use enough (or more than enough lube).

There are more do's and don'ts, but I'm not the "clay" expert.

1. Use plenty of lube with your clay.

If you use "Clay Magic" (I jokingly call it "Clay Tragic" due to the ability of it to really help or harm a car's paint.)

I use the Zaino clay.

What do both of these clay products have in common -- they require the user to keep the clay well lubricated.

The Zaino clay uses the Zaino car wash concentrate as the "base" for the lube -- a user just mixes up a stronger mix of the car wash with water. The clay should be gently rubbed across the paint with "tons" of lube. I spritz the area with lube and keep spritzing as I rub the clay.

The ClayMagic clay product has its own lube that doubles as a "gloss enhancer" / mini-detailer spray. (When the Clay Magic "lube" isn't being used to lube the clay, it doubles as a "detailing" spray to clean-up the car between waxes.

The important part of claying is to:

1. Rub with plenty of lube -- the clay must float on the lube.

2. Remove any particles that get picked up in the clay. If the clay gets too dirty, turn it over or "re-mold" into a new piece that doesn't expose any of the "bits" that would have been picked up from wiping the clay bar across the paint finish.

If you see clay coming off onto the paint, you are using too much pressure, or too little lube. This should also be done in the shade and when the car's surface is NOT hot.

The clay should be gently rubbed (with lube) across the paint, and it will feel easier and easier to slide it over the dirty areas with each stroke. When the clay slides over the area of paint with no resistance, you have finished the area.

The clay is NOT a work out (like the removal of some nasty waxes can be). A good clay and lube will only take 20-40 minutes of time for an experienced user to do a complete car (I'm assuming a compact or sub-compact).

So, I'm sure others will tell give you more rules here, but I've seen people mess up claying. 90% of the mistakes are due to people NOT applying enough lube!

It is also important to keep the clay "clean". The clay will pick up debris as it gets wiped over the paint, and this same debris, if hard will damage the underlying paint if it isn't picked out of the clay. I just use my finger nail to remove little nasty bits, but others here may have better ways to deal with "dirty" clay.

That's the best I can do for now -- but if you do a clay job right, you will really make the car look great and give whatever product you decide to use a great base to start with.

(just my opinions)


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Silver 2001 CL-S with NAVI

• Mud guards
• Wheel locks
• Toyo T1S 235/45ZR17-97W* Proxies on 17x8" SSR Competition wheels (48lbs less than stock)
• Kevlar/SS Brake lines w/Brembos?
• Comptech headers & sways
• Silver AEM CAI
• 10 coats of Zaino magic

 

I used a clay bar for the first time this past weekend. I did it on my g/f’s Pathfinder and was pretty apprehensive at first. I felt claying was pretty extreme to the paint and was really worried about messing up. My advice is to use a lot of lube and start in an inconspicuous place. Once you start you see it’s really easy (as long as you use enough lube).

EricL’s description is pretty good and pretty much describes my experience. You’ll know when you’ve clayed an area enough and the results are truly amazing. The Pathfinder is housed outside and doesn’t receive the best care. When I was done, the finish was smooth as glass. I washed it again when I finished with the clay, polished and waxed and the paint felt better then new. Just take it easy at first with the clay and you’ll quickly get the hang of it. Just follow EricL’s tips.

 

thanx for ur help. so basically for the lube u just use car wash soap?

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1997 Black Acura 2.2 CL
Currently-
PIAAs Everywhere, PIAA 1700X, Custom Grill, Clear Corners, OE Spoiler,
5% Tints (Limo), HKS Super Dragger Exhaust, AEM CAI w/Breather,
Venom 400
Comming Soon-
Headers or Ignition, Front Lip
http://members.home.net/vx16

 

The Zaino product uses the car-wash in concentrated form as the clay lube.

The Clay Magic comes with its own bottle of "lube" --- it is NOT car wash!




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Silver 2001 CL-S with NAVI

• Mud guards
• Wheel locks
• Toyo T1S 235/45ZR17-97W* Proxies on 17x8" SSR Competition wheels (48lbs less than stock)
• Kevlar/SS Brake lines w/Brembos?
• Comptech headers & sways
• Silver AEM CAI
• 10 coats of Zaino magic

 

I found that car wash (turtle wax in water lubes perfectly. The difference from a non-clayed new car and a clayed car is amazing in that it's so smooth. Remember to remove any wax put on by the dealer before you clay. Dawn dishwashing soap is great for this.

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"01" CL Type-S
White\Black
Comptech Springs
Comptech Sways
17x7.5 BBS RX Rims
K&N Dropin AF
Navigation System
Burlwood Shifter
Guards+Fenderwell Trim
PIAA16969
Smokers Package
DOM 5/00 #9177
My Car
More Pics

 

The best tips are these:

Cut the clay up into a lot of small pieces. I'd recommend pieces for:

Hood
Trunk lid and roof
upper portion of door
bottom portion of door (1 for each door)
front and rear quarter panels
front bumper
rear bumper

Use the piece for that section only, then toss it. You will be far less likely to cause scratching.

When doing things like bumpers, always clay from top to bottom. The bottom tends to contain the most contaminents.

Constantly rework the clay. Remove any visible "crap" in the clay. Lots of lube. Take your time. Do it in the shade.

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1999 Satin Silver Metallic 3.2 TL w/o Navigation

• 18x8 Racing Hart C2s with 225/40ZR18 Dunlop SP Sport 9000
• Comptech Springs, Sways, Exhaust, and Headers
• Red AEM CAI w/bypass valve
• A'PEXi Digital VTEC AFC
• Denso Iridium Plugs
• Custom Mugen Grill
• Inspire Tail Lights
• Factory Underbody Kit and Spoiler
• Clifford Intelliguard 9000 Alarm w/SmartWindows II
• Alpine 6 disk CD Changer
• BEL 945i Cordless Radar Detector
• Burlwood Shift Knob & Trunk Tray
• 20% tint

 

Use enough detailing spray as lubricant and you will be fine. I have done this many times.

 

people will tell you when using it, to use the entire bar and to just fold it over and keep at it. and to just keep folding it. but NSXNEXT provides a great method so that the contaminants do not stay on the bar. either way you just want to prevent scratching your car with the crap on your claybar.

my tips are: 1)make sure your car is clean before you begin, you want the surface as clean as possible. 2)do not use a lot of pressure, just lightly slide it over the paint. 3)there should absolutely, absolutely be no friction when claying. like everyone says keep lubing. 4)brands of clay do matter. 5)claying brings the absolute best of the car and wins the points for show cars so please take your time when claying. the entire process of washing/drying/lubing small sections/and constantly folding the clay, mid/large show cars take 8 hours (engine compartment, paint, body, etc). this does not include glaze and wax. 6)some say you can reuse the bar a few times. technically you could, but check out your bar after you use it, and tell me would you want your clearcoat touching that.

everyone has their methods, so review several sources like detailers in your area. some don't know shit but at least you checked them out. few paint supply stores offer employee classes/training from paint suppliers such as 3M in proper techniques and guidelines of correct buffing techniques to chip/scratch repair. so if you have the hookups or know a buddy, i suggest you check them out, they really know whats up. you'll soon realize how autobody shops cut corners.

 

Stay away from Meguiar's bran clay bar.

So far I have used Mother's, Zaino, and Meguiar's, and Meguiars is far inferior.

O'Reilly's carries Mothers.

 

Good advice here.

If you want to hear it (and print it) from the horse's mouth go to Sal Zaino's site for step by step instructions.
http://www.zainobros.com/files/application.htm

 

Good Idea!

 

That's great info. I just got my car on Tuesday and am eagerly awaiting my Zaino goodies in the mail soon. Hopefully by this weekend.
I didn't order the Zaino carwash (Z-7), 'cause I'm happy with Dawn. Anyhow, will Dawn work well as a substitute for the Zaino Car wash as an adequate lube for the Clay?! I'd imagine so, but a little reassurance would be nice!!!

 

You do not want to use dawn as a regular wash solution. It will strip the car. So only use it when you want to strip it. So go get some car wash solution and leave the dawn to the dishes, Madge! (get it?)

I like Meguiars Gold Car wash for $9 at Target or Walmart for 1 gallon of the stuff.

 

As already stated, you do not want to use Dawn as your day-to-day car wash. Use the Zaino car wash (if you use Zaino), or one of the other specialized car wash products.

Most of the "good" product companies make a gentle car shampoo with good cleaning properties. If using Zaino, stick with the Zaino shampoo...

 

I just finished claying my black car and it looks better than new and its 168,000 miles away from new. I have used clay numerous times on a couple different cars and I'm not sure how you could really screw up your car using it. As long as you use enough lube you shouldnt have a problem at all. If you feel lots of resitance, add some more lube and re-do the area. No biggie. The clay marks should go away after you add more lube.

 

You guys saved my ass again. Thanks a ton. I plan on Claying my car this weekend, but, liek Isaid, failed to order the Zaino Car Wash, so I guess McGuires will do for the time being. We'll see how that turns out. I'm sure it'll be just fine, but I'd liek to keep all my products "in the family", if you know what I mean.....and yes.....I will leave the Dawn for "Marge". HAHA

 

I just clayed my car this weekend and then I used Gold Class wax and it looks great. No swirl marks of any kind and it feels really really smooth.

 

I just Clayed my ride on Saturday and it feels silky smooth. I can' treally understand how you could mess it up. If you use a spray bottle with car-wash-n-water, you'll be just fine. Washed it with Dawn, used a Zaino Clay Bar with McGuires Gold Car Wash, washed again with McGuires and waxed with the Zaino Products.....lookin' tough.

 

Anybody here ever used one of those man-made clay bars, like Pinnacle's PolyClay bar?

 

What's the difference?! You used it?! You like it?! It's a Pinnacle Product so I would trust it pretty well.

 

How many times a year should you clay your car or does it go by miles or by the weather. And what is the beat clay kit that comes with the lube.

 

How many times you clay just goes by what you think is best based on what your hand feels on the paint, feels like glass? no clay needed. Feels rough? clay it

The best clays you can buy now are, Mothers, Clay Magic blue colored, and Zaino Z-18. These are in no particular order, each works great. You can make your own clay lube for any kind of clay with a cap full of car wash in 16 ounces of water, no need to buy expensive lube detailer spray.

 

Yeah clay bar is aweasome!!!! Ive used it many times on cars in my shop. The trick to using it? You just insure that you use lots of the clay bar solution. However with a lack of clay bar solution or its a extremely hot day the "clay" will stick to the paint and your gonna have a hell of a time trying to get it off. Believe me it works! Its way way better than waxing! However it is by a whole shot not easier!!!!!

 

I just used the clay for the first time and I concur with everyone's methods of application. I used the Meguiar's Quick Clay system (soon to be replaced with Pinnacle's Poly Clay) and the results are pretty decent.

 

I've used both Meguiar's Smooth Clay and Pinnacle on dark colored cars with great results from both! Keyword: LUBRICATION!

 

^thats what she said

 

Reviving a thread from 2001

 

wow...a 12 yr old thread revival! noobs