Car is literally 3 days old, can I wax it?
09-29-2013, 05:16 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Car is literally 3 days old, can I wax it?
We had to wait for our '14 MDX to be built. It was finished being built this past Thursday, came in yesterday and we picked it up yesterday. It's ok to wax right?
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justnspace (09-29-2013)
09-29-2013, 06:53 PM
#4
Suzuka Master
09-29-2013, 09:01 PM
#6
Suzuka Master
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roushracin (09-30-2013)
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09-30-2013, 06:56 AM
#8
3G TL/2G MDX Owner
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it's the first thing i do to the car when i purchase. i've seen some nasty cars that aren't even that old and the amount of contamination that accumulates...it's gross. the clay bar doesn't lie.
10-03-2013, 06:53 PM
#11
Suzuka Master
Just a point of interest
People always ask " My car is new .. should I clay it? It looks really good"
Well I just picked up a 2013 that was received at the dealer 3days ago and built less than a month ago. It looked great and was mar free even in full sun. Well the hands can feel what the eyes can't see and a quick feel said clay bar time. I made a point of not kneeding the bar just to show what I was picking up. I wasn't worried about the clay marring as the contaminants were very fine and I intended on polishing lightly with HD Polish and an orange pad anyway. What you see is from the hood, roof and trunk lid. The vertical surfaces showed about 1/2 as much. Because the clear is porous if I wouldn't have clayed I may have been permanently sealing some of this into the surface. The car was washed at the dealer Tuesday and by me yesterday prior to claying. Clay I used was Recardo.
People always ask " My car is new .. should I clay it? It looks really good"
Well I just picked up a 2013 that was received at the dealer 3days ago and built less than a month ago. It looked great and was mar free even in full sun. Well the hands can feel what the eyes can't see and a quick feel said clay bar time. I made a point of not kneeding the bar just to show what I was picking up. I wasn't worried about the clay marring as the contaminants were very fine and I intended on polishing lightly with HD Polish and an orange pad anyway. What you see is from the hood, roof and trunk lid. The vertical surfaces showed about 1/2 as much. Because the clear is porous if I wouldn't have clayed I may have been permanently sealing some of this into the surface. The car was washed at the dealer Tuesday and by me yesterday prior to claying. Clay I used was Recardo.
10-04-2013, 08:02 AM
#13
One thing I have not tried is IronX. My understanding is that this is a good compliment to claying as it makes claying a bit easier? but I still have not gotten a definitive answer as to if IronX is necessary if you clay the car real well.
Kind of hesitant on IronX as I heard it has a horrible stench to it... altho I understand that there is a lemon scent IronX now.
Kind of hesitant on IronX as I heard it has a horrible stench to it... altho I understand that there is a lemon scent IronX now.
10-04-2013, 08:30 AM
#14
Suzuka Master
One thing I have not tried is IronX. My understanding is that this is a good compliment to claying as it makes claying a bit easier? but I still have not gotten a definitive answer as to if IronX is necessary if you clay the car real well.
Kind of hesitant on IronX as I heard it has a horrible stench to it... altho I understand that there is a lemon scent IronX now.
Kind of hesitant on IronX as I heard it has a horrible stench to it... altho I understand that there is a lemon scent IronX now.
I'm passing for now.
10-06-2013, 08:55 AM
#16
Suzuka Master
10-06-2013, 09:15 AM
#17
3G TL/2G MDX Owner
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usually dealers put some sort of glaze on the car just to make it shiny at the time of delivery. this is not a sealant or wax protectant for the paint. it only gives the car a nice gloss to make an impression on the owner. then they put that high gloss tire glaze on the tires as well which lasts a day.
i personally would not want the dealer detail dept doing much more than their typical new car prep for delivery (even that might be a stretch unless they were using new MF and chamois). after that....no touchie.
i personally would not want the dealer detail dept doing much more than their typical new car prep for delivery (even that might be a stretch unless they were using new MF and chamois). after that....no touchie.
10-07-2013, 07:45 AM
#18
10-07-2013, 03:46 PM
#19
Instructor
Thread Starter
Waxed it up last Monday. (Only 4 days old from the factory. Brought it home Saturday.) Used DG 601 and DG 105. I've had great success with these products combined. Lasts longer than a lot of products I have used. She looks pretty.
10-07-2013, 04:44 PM
#20
Senior Moderator
No one has mentioned this but.. OptiCoat maybe??
10-09-2013, 05:06 AM
#21
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Paint decontamination systems
New vehicles are stored prior to shipping to the dealership in the factory parking facility. This is in close proximity to the rail system that is used for transporting vehicles. Some vehicles are shipped on over the road (OTR) vehicles transportation; the common denominator is that the paint surface is subjected to ferrous iron particulates from either brake or rail dust
Even new cars that have been sitting on a car dealerships lot for a few weeks can accumulate contamination that bonds to the paint surface; it shouldn't be assumed a vehicle that looks good is contamination free. Carry out the ‘Bag Test’ place some Saran wrap or a zip lock bag over your hand and rub across the finish lightly.
Every snag you feel is a surface contaminant that should be removed, but you may not be able to see, especially on white or light colour vehicle surfaces.
Even new cars that have been sitting on a car dealerships lot for a few weeks can accumulate contamination that bonds to the paint surface; it shouldn't be assumed a vehicle that looks good is contamination free. Carry out the ‘Bag Test’ place some Saran wrap or a zip lock bag over your hand and rub across the finish lightly.
Every snag you feel is a surface contaminant that the clay bar can remove but you may not be able to see, especially on white or light colour vehicle surfaces.
Given that some contaminant residue, like sintered brake or rail dust (ferrous metal) are usually highly acidic and / or will permeate a paint surface, it makes far more sense to remove them chemically and neutralize the paint surface rather than by using an abrasive polish, as dissolving them using a paint decontamination system and then rinsing them away virtually eliminates the risk of causing surface scratches.
The problem with these inorganic items over the organic items is the way they can bond both physically and chemically. Over time they oxidise and corrode, harming the paint that they have embedded themselves in causing etching and discolouration which will need rectifying through polishing.
Brake pads are manufactured from a range of materials including Kevlar fibres, Mono carbon fibres; Polymer based adhesives and metal particulates from both the pads and brake rotors (ferrous oxide FeO); all of which must factor into the cleaning process. The brake pads polymer adhesive residue can actually turn acidic, etching and pitting the paint finish.
Paint decontamination systems were developed as a method of removing ferrous contamination beyond what can be removed by washing or claying alone. The only way to completely remove sintered (heat fused) ferrous iron particles is with a dedicated decontamination system that reacts with ferrous metal (this reaction is what causes the colour change) opens up the paint's micro pores to release iron particles and to neutralize the caustic compounds that have developed as a result of the particle.
In one step, you can eliminate both the cause and its effects. Ongoing damage is immediately stopped and future damage is prevented by completely removing the ferrous particles.
Even new cars that have been sitting on a car dealerships lot for a few weeks can accumulate contamination that bonds to the paint surface; it shouldn't be assumed a vehicle that looks good is contamination free. Carry out the ‘Bag Test’ place some Saran wrap or a zip lock bag over your hand and rub across the finish lightly.
Every snag you feel is a surface contaminant that should be removed, but you may not be able to see, especially on white or light colour vehicle surfaces.
Even new cars that have been sitting on a car dealerships lot for a few weeks can accumulate contamination that bonds to the paint surface; it shouldn't be assumed a vehicle that looks good is contamination free. Carry out the ‘Bag Test’ place some Saran wrap or a zip lock bag over your hand and rub across the finish lightly.
Every snag you feel is a surface contaminant that the clay bar can remove but you may not be able to see, especially on white or light colour vehicle surfaces.
Given that some contaminant residue, like sintered brake or rail dust (ferrous metal) are usually highly acidic and / or will permeate a paint surface, it makes far more sense to remove them chemically and neutralize the paint surface rather than by using an abrasive polish, as dissolving them using a paint decontamination system and then rinsing them away virtually eliminates the risk of causing surface scratches.
The problem with these inorganic items over the organic items is the way they can bond both physically and chemically. Over time they oxidise and corrode, harming the paint that they have embedded themselves in causing etching and discolouration which will need rectifying through polishing.
Brake pads are manufactured from a range of materials including Kevlar fibres, Mono carbon fibres; Polymer based adhesives and metal particulates from both the pads and brake rotors (ferrous oxide FeO); all of which must factor into the cleaning process. The brake pads polymer adhesive residue can actually turn acidic, etching and pitting the paint finish.
Paint decontamination systems were developed as a method of removing ferrous contamination beyond what can be removed by washing or claying alone. The only way to completely remove sintered (heat fused) ferrous iron particles is with a dedicated decontamination system that reacts with ferrous metal (this reaction is what causes the colour change) opens up the paint's micro pores to release iron particles and to neutralize the caustic compounds that have developed as a result of the particle.
In one step, you can eliminate both the cause and its effects. Ongoing damage is immediately stopped and future damage is prevented by completely removing the ferrous particles.
Last edited by TOGWT; 10-09-2013 at 05:15 AM.
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C8N (10-09-2013)
10-09-2013, 08:38 AM
#22
Suzuka Master
TOGWT, I didn't realize a non water soluble solid metal like iron or sintered could be acidic. I'd like to read up on this, could you point me to links so I can read up on this.
10-09-2013, 08:57 AM
#23
Suzuka Master
Too late to edit so .. I knew brake dust from the pads themselves "can" become acidic if exposed to moisture over time but from what I understand iron/steel ( ferrous metal) only oxidized ( rusted) thus the brown/orange stain noticeable on lighter colored cars.
10-09-2013, 09:27 AM
#24
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Iron oxide or more correctly ferric oxide (Fe2O3) is an inorganic compound
[: Iron (II) oxide, also known as ferrous oxide, is one of the iron oxides. It is a black-colour powder with the chemical formula FeO. It consists of the chemical element iron in the oxidation state of 2 bonded to oxygen. Its mineral form is known as wüstite. Iron (II) oxide should not be confused with rust, which usually consists of hydrated iron (III) oxide (ferric oxide)].
Reactivity
[: acceleration of a chemical reaction by a catalyst]
Like any chemical attacking a surface, temperature will dictate reactivity (acceleration of a chemical reaction by a catalyst [moisture and heat]. The more heat and moisture that is present (in the form of high humidity, dew and etc) the more aggressive the acid becomes.
This is how something like [ a non water soluble solid metal like iron or sintered ...] particulates become acidic
Then you have; an acid + water +oxygen + ozone all of which forms an acidic oxygen molecule that attaches to the ferrous particulates and causes a concave indentation (acid etching) to the paint surface.
It should be noted that until this acid is neutralised subsequent moisture and heat will reactivate the acid and allow further damage, as acid requires an alkaline to neutralize it
[: Iron (II) oxide, also known as ferrous oxide, is one of the iron oxides. It is a black-colour powder with the chemical formula FeO. It consists of the chemical element iron in the oxidation state of 2 bonded to oxygen. Its mineral form is known as wüstite. Iron (II) oxide should not be confused with rust, which usually consists of hydrated iron (III) oxide (ferric oxide)].
Reactivity
[: acceleration of a chemical reaction by a catalyst]
Like any chemical attacking a surface, temperature will dictate reactivity (acceleration of a chemical reaction by a catalyst [moisture and heat]. The more heat and moisture that is present (in the form of high humidity, dew and etc) the more aggressive the acid becomes.
This is how something like [ a non water soluble solid metal like iron or sintered ...] particulates become acidic
Then you have; an acid + water +oxygen + ozone all of which forms an acidic oxygen molecule that attaches to the ferrous particulates and causes a concave indentation (acid etching) to the paint surface.
It should be noted that until this acid is neutralised subsequent moisture and heat will reactivate the acid and allow further damage, as acid requires an alkaline to neutralize it
10-09-2013, 10:11 AM
#25
Suzuka Master
Ok just clarifying because you said sintered brake or rail dust (ferrous metal) are usually highly acidic when in fact they can become acidic when exposed to the right catalysts.
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