acutsx

Bird dropping left a blemish on the clear coat .The clear coat is "cloudy" now. Anyone have experience getting this out ? do I use a clay bar ? compound ? Help !

exceldetail

Start with removing all excrement (bs) with some quick detailer. If you have some generic paint cleaner on hand, give that a whirl, that will help remove any acids from the BS, and slightly below surface. If you still have some hazing, next step (Which I would normally just go to) would be to apply a light polish, by hand with foam applicator. Apply in a back and forth motion, lightly until hazing fades. Some BS is a little more toxic then others, and may require additional products and/or work time. The problem with BS is if its not removed asap, it literally eats the clear coat away (Some birds), seagulls being the worst as they eat just about anything, dead or alive, with bits of sand attached. Makes removal all the more difficult.......

TOGWT

‘Clouding’ of the Clear Coat:
A polyurethane paint (high solid clear coats) can absorb moisture; as water molecules are smaller than cross-linked clear coats molecules. If the clear coat appears ‘cloudy’ or opaque, by applying isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to the area, allowing it to dwell for five to ten minutes and with a heat gun or hair dryer, heat the area (do not exceeding 100oF spot temperature) the IPA acts as a "drying" agent, and when combined with the heat the moisture will evaporate

To neutralise acid water spots using a polish or compound will remove the etching and the indentations, the surface should then be neutralised A B C Decontamination / Neutralization system
(http:// www.autoint.com) a safe alkaline wash and neutralizing system, this three part system comprises;
A-Acid Neutralizer, B-Alkaline Neutralizer (use in conjunction with detailers clay to remove ‘water spots’) and C- Surface Conditioner with a pH of 7.0, which safely removes both surface and subsurface contamination and neutralizes any residual acid from the painted finish. (See also Acid Rain & Reactivity)


Knowledge - [We know a subject] [We know where to find information on it] the most highly valued; [knowledge that is both held and shared]

exceldetail

Jon, quick question....This came to mind when I frst read this thread. What if you mixed up a small batch of baking soda to neutralize?

TOGWT

Definitely...

As important as removing the bird excrement; neutralizing the acid is even more important. Each time you add water to an acid it reactivates it.

Baking soda is an alkaline (the opposite of an acid) it will effectively neutralise and make inert.

I would recommend the ABC system by Auto International on an annual basis.


[each one / teach one, then student /becomes teacher]

stogie1020

Huh? What is this?


Edit:
Nevermind, Google is my friend: (from http://www.autoint.com/autostore/pc/...?idproduct=212 )

Product Details

The A-B-C System is a three step neutralization and wash system formulated to remove industrial fallout, rail dust, hard water deposits, acid rain residue and other forms of pollutants.

Product "A"-Acid Neutralizer removes waxes, storage stains and neutralizes acid deposits. An 8-1 concentrate that dwells for 5-7 minutes before rinsing.

Product "B"-Alkaline Neutralizer, removes alkaline deposits and ferrous metal fallout. Ready to use formula that dwells for 5-7 minutes.

Product "C"-Detail Wash (formerly pH 7.0 Surface Conditioner), an excellent 128-1 concentrate vehicle wash for every day use and the third step in our neutralization system. Ensures any chemical residues are neutralized and rinsed away.

TOGWT

On the basis of least aggressive first; if the paint can be rectified by chemical means, this is a better solution than abrasive polishing. Using the correct chemical solvent cleaner will dissolve the contaminants rather than abrading the paint. With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material it’s to be used on.

A safe alternative to abrading acid etching; Valuguard’s Decontamination / Neutralization system – http:// www.autoint.com
a three part neutralization and wash system formulated to safely remove industrial fallout, rail dust, hard water deposits, acid rain and alkaline residue and other forms of pollutants, this system comprises; an acid and alkaline neutralizer, which removes deposits and ferrous metal fallout and a surface conditioner, the third step in the neutralization process washes the paint surface to ensure that any chemical residues are neutralized and rinsed away.

Product A-an acid neutralizer that removes waxes, storage stains and neutralizes acid deposits, an 8:1 solution that should be allowed to dwell for 5-7 minutes (ensure it doesn’t dry on the surface by reapplication) before rinsing off.

Product B-the alkaline neutralizer that removes alkaline deposits and ferrous metal fallout, a ready to use formula that requires a dwell time of 5-7 minutes (use detailer’s clay during the dwell period) do not allow product to dry, reapply as necessary.
Tip: clay during the application of the alkaline neutralizer, rinse the bar with water often.

Product C – a surface conditioner (pH 7.0) and vehicle wash, the third step in the neutralization process that ensures any chemical residues are neutralized and rinsed away. This process (especially when incorporating detailer’s clay with the neutralizer step) leaves a spotlessly clean and contamination free surface.

This process stops the damage from acid rain or similar fallout (decontamination) when acids are present on/in a paint system every time water is added the acid is re-activated, to avoid this, these acids need to be neutralised.

This system will also neutralize rusting caused by rail dust or other steel/iron fallout. It also helps with the removal of tree resin (sap) bird and bug excrement, and other harmful airborne contaminants. Clay is not enough to completely remove the steel filings from brakes / rotors it just ‘shaves’ them at paint surface level, but it won't dissolve the rust caused by them.

Notes:
1) Use separate wash mitts for the acids neutralizer and the surface conditioner, using the ValuGard dispenser / mixing system will ensure the correct ratios and maximum economy. Other prep or reconditioning operations should be performed during product dwell times.
2) To obtain a level paint surface any etched depressions should be abraded with a suitable polish Using a rotary or an orbital polisher and an LC Orange or Yellow foam pad. Some stubborn marks cannot be removed without an aggressive compound or wet-sanding, which may compromise the clear coat beyond repair.
3) There comes a point when you must judge wither removing a scratch will compromise the clear coat and if so you’ll have to ‘live’ with the imperfection (these can be aesthetically masked by using a Glaze)
(See also Acid Rain, Reactivity, Corrosion, Water acting as a catalyst for Acid)

Alternative products- Finish Kare Paint 119/883 – http//:www.fk1usa.com/decontamination.htm


{Knowledge; don't ever stop learning; [always keeping an open mind]

TLAdvanced

iTrader: (4)

So, if I have an etched outline of the dropping in my paint would vinegar work as if I were trying to remove acid rain etching???

SupaRookie

wow reviving a dead thread!

Jesstzn

No