722ish

I have used Klasse AIO and SEALANT GLAZE on my TL and i am happy with it, however, is it possible to find another wax or sealant type that will offer the wet deep look more than the Klasse? Am I at a middle ground with price and effectiveness? In other words, will it be difficult to replace the Klasse with another product for a reasonable price, that will give me the look/effect i am looking for?

thanks!

722ish

Also, i forgot to ask about leather products....
I want something that keeps my TL interior soft, smooth and supple, that i can use regularly, as i put a LOT of miles on a month. Also, in my supra, my rear seats are hardening, and i use/have used conditioner and cleaner from lexol since i owned the car, 4 years ago. If anyone has any reccomendations for regular cleaner/conditioners, and a softener for my toyota concrete rear seats, please, let me know!

thanks in advance!
Mark

Hawhyen51

A major factor is the prep work . . . using a claybar and a polish to clean the paint, give it gloss and reflectivity and removing surface imperfections. There are dozens of sealants on the market and choosing one comes down to a personal choice. You might wanna check out FS UPP and it's one of forum favorites. Easy to use, super slick, has a deep shine and very durable. Here's a couple of threads of some vehicles detailed by Exceldetail . . .
07 325i,07 ZO6, F150 & VW Toureg and 04 NBP TL.

722ish

ok, I'll check it out
I do clay the car, and I'm relatively impressed with the klasse, however, I always will look for better if you know what I mean

Any reccomendations on the leather?

Thanks a lot
mark

Razzi

im still really new to this paint care business, and it seems like every other brand has a different name for a product. the FS UPP thing is a wax right? which is the same as a sealant or no? if not, wtf is a sealant?

Jesstzn

Check the wax on wax off link in my web page it explains wax/sealant.

exceldetail

The Four Star twins are very nice.......

The UPP is a Synthetic wax, a polymer sealant.
There are two different types of protection. Nuba (wax) or synthetic waxes like UPP. Nuba claim to have a warmer glow, a little deeper color clarity (I havent seen it but thats the claim, and to each their own anyway) Durability is average, and a benchmark for others. Synthetics IMO, match or exceed any appearance a Nuba can give, plus it well exceeds a Nubas durability. Often lasting a complete quarter if maintained appropriately.

Jess, your link is missing!!

Jesstzn

I have used Klasse a lot ... do you layer it? or just single layer? What color is your car?

You can get wet & deep with SG but you need to prep , layer it and top it with a carnuba like P21S ... I use Meguiars #16 but its impossible to find since the VOC legislations.

Jesstzn

Well crap .. I forgot to add the sig .. I wish it would be a default .. here is the link

Missing link

Razzi

thanks guys, i realize it's pretty basic stuff covered elsewhere. but for some damn reason i cant FIND it. i keep ending up reading the same stuff over and over again trying to look for new info
and all this hype about pure carnauba is bs? synthetic wins?

Razzi

sorry for being a postwhore, i get excited when i learn something new. here's what i ran into
"NOTE: When we speak of waxes from this point on we can, and do include "paint sealants" too which are nothing more than an evolution of automotive wax technology.
But a standard wax will last about 30 to 45 days tops. On the other hand, what we call a paint sealant can last up to 6 months, under the best conditions. "

i thought i read paint sealant kinda came with the wax territory and stuff. then i see this straight separation of the 2.
finished reading the page, and i must say, good shit
just so im clear, wax and sealants are 2 different stuff, but they're sometimes combined?

Jesstzn

2 different animals all together but the unknowing will group them together because they both are a form of protection.


Most Sealants you can layer if they aren't solvent based ... waxes don't layer well .. Sealants won't bond well to waxes but a carnuba wax over a sealant will add depth and wettness to it.

I bet that really cleared it up ..

Hawhyen51

Another good source of info about carcare is Detail University. . .check it out.

exceldetail

I totally agree with this statement, but you will find others who say waxes are layerable. With waxes, its like adding mayonnaise atop of mayonnaise. The second application incorporates itself into the first.

Jesstzn

Now I like that analogy

Razzi

even after allowing it to haze and dry and whatnot?
what's the best way to get a nice protection then? wax, then something in the middle then more wax?

Jesstzn

Yes even after drying etc ..


No not wax ...

Use a sealant like SG .. layer it .. maybe 3 layers then if you want depth an wetness add a carnuba on top. just make sure it isn't a cleaner carnuba as it will lift the SG.

TOGWT

Jesstzn - So the missing link can be found on a detailing forum


Basic Leather care - http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ther-care.html

madmanmax3000

No love for Zaino?? It's by far my favorite synthetic, has been for years. It also lasts incredibly long. I always do a good claybar and a few coats before the winter kicks in and it'll last a few months easily.

www.zainostore.com

Read some of the testimonials

Jesstzn

No the missing link is in a post above and it leads to a button on my web page "Wax on .. Wax off". It was originally in my signature but it didn't get added to my post.

Hawhyen51

Everyone has a favorite product be it Megs, Pinnacle, FS, Blackfire or whatever, if you're satisfied with the results then continue to use it. I think Zaino is an excellent product but not my cup of tea. Besides, the prep is what determines the result.

Jesstzn

I use Zaino all the time .. have for 4 years .. BUT I don't really recommend it to many because Zaino , like other high end sealants, require the proper prep and a lot aren't equiped or have the inclination to do it.

I , as does Hawhyen51 stresses the prep is the key.

You can put 20 layers of Zaino (*) on dog sh*t and all you get is shiney dog sh*t.
(*)= insert any high end sealant here.

722ish

Ive read most of that over at autogeek, and at autopia.org or whatever, ive browsed a lot.

What would you all consider good prep for a car? My car by the way is anthracite metallic, so i know it wont pop as much as other colors, however, it should get the "job done" if you know what i mean. I love that watery, super glossy look.

Wtf is VOC legislation?
I do layer, and i will try the P21s on top then, thanks.

Any ideas on softening leather, aside from what most of the detail websites provide? Ive looked those through, and after talking to many people the best I could muster was LEXOL, which ISNT working.

Jesstzn

VOC = Volitile Organic compounds .. a Google search will better explain it than I can.

Proper prep = polishing out the oxidization and swirling prior to layering on the sealant ..

Macruz19

Try Z-8 or Duragloss Aqua Wax.

TOGWT

Soften (to produce a Patina or soft hand) –
All finished leathers (inc. covered) have already been permanently preserved in the tanning process and do not need conditioning products to replace oils etc maintenance should comprise simple cleaning and re-hydrating and protection.

One of the biggest complaints from convertible owners is premature leather aging (polyethylene cracking) from perspiration stains; perspiration is mainly salt, which equals a dried cracked leather covering

Hardened, cracked or peeled covered leather; the cause is usually from oils, either leather conditioners or body oils and perspiration that have permeated the surface and are dissolving the finish. This product is not a leather conditioner per se; Leather Master’s Vital (or as an alternative Aged Leather Revitalizer) penetrates the leather (except Nubuck) It’s a water-based product used to soften, re-hydrate and restore the leather’s patina, by making the larger droplets into a microscopically fine emulsion it can be readily absorbed into the leather fibres. It can also be used when doing repair work to help soften the area.

Once the leather surfaces have been cleaned, apply the product to a clean micro fibre towel and wipe a very, very thin even layer on the surface. It is better to apply several thin layers than a heavy application. Allow each layer to dry and be absorbed - Leather Master Vital Leather Softener - http://www.topoftheline.com

Use Leather Master’s Aged Leather Revitalizer This product will revitalize older leather and restore and maintain resiliency to leather that has become brittle and will soften stiff leather. Leather Vital penetrates the leather to soften and nourish. It isn't thick or full of oils like conditioners. It reaches deep into the hide, which is essential for suppleness recovery.

In summary, an aqueous emulsion is readily absorbed into the fibres and provides lasting and effective lubrication without migration, while re-hydration leaves leather feeling silky soft and pliable.

A leather protection product would be far more effective than a ‘conditioner’ Being water-based it helps hydration by balancing the necessary moisture level of all leather types (except Nubuck). Although it’s primary purpose is to act as a barrier between the leather surface and any soils that may settle on it.

The keys to leather care are; keeping leather (a) hydrated (b) clean, as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear. A leather protection product is essential as it will protect the surface finish and makes dirt easier to clean off.

conan777

TOGWT...man you are everywhere! ha..ha..! Even Acurazine! That is incredible. Well glad you are here I always enjoy reading your very informative posts.

Just a side note when applying any sealant...make sure you wait approx 12hrs between coats otherwise you will simply remove the underlying coat and waste your time and product. The sealant needs time to cross link and bond to the paint which generally takes approx 12 hours, give or take...I believe that includes waiting 12 hours before applying a carnauba wax over a sealant as well but I'm not 100% sure on that one. Anyone?

Jesstzn

Rule of thumb .. I wait 12 hrs min. to add a carnuba topper .. which in fact works out to nearly 24 because its bed time then lol .

conan777

On another side note I have used
Wolfgangs Deep Gloss Paint sealant (WDGP)... on my anthracite silver metallic TL and find it to be extremely slick, very easy to apply and remove and it gives a nice wet, glossy appearance. I've read other reviewers stated that it's durability is not that great but for me anything over 2 months is perfectly ok as I apply my LSP at least that often except for maybe during the winter months and this sealant easily lasts 2 months for me. I definitely recommend it.

I have recently tried using Ultima's Paint Guard Plus (UPGP) sealant and have to say I am not all that impressed. I felt that the slickness is not even close to WDGP and the look certainly does not blow me away as of yet. I have used it on my silver car as well as my wife's black car 2 coats each. I have found the durability to be holding up very well though but I doubt I will purchase it again in the future.

As far as wax I have Pinnacle Souveran Paste wax and am very happy with it. It looks great and application is a breeze as well as removal. It states it is especially brilliant on darker colored veh's so I have only used it on my wife's black Lexus, haven't tried it on my Metallic Silver yet.

Thats just my people! How about some more reviews of your favorites....

tihomirbg

iTrader: (1)

Is Mother's a cleaner carnuba wax?

conan777

It should say on the wax if it is a cleaner wax or not. If you got the Mothers with their clay bar kit then most likely yes it is a cleaner wax and should be labeled as such.

Jesstzn

You'll have to be more specific as there are many Mothers waxes.

tihomirbg

iTrader: (1)

Ok,
before I got the FS UPP, I got the 3 step Mothers. Now, I was not sure if the one that I have which is California Gold® Pure Carnauba Wax–Step 3.
Right after I use UPP, someone said to top it with Carnauba wax for extra shine

exceldetail

Well, your shine comes from polishing. Many people fail to realize waxes arent the beauty agents when detailing, its the polishes. I think your 3 step Mothers program consists of one polish, a glaze/filler and the Nuba right?
Step one cleans and slightly polishes, step two adds some depth and further enhancement, and step 3 is your protective barrier. The step 3 is a pure Nuba. (Pure as in the sense theres still petroleum used in processing, to make it usable)

tihomirbg

iTrader: (1)

Very well said, but here is my question. These 3 steps are all good if done one after another, but then again what step does FS UPP come after or before?
Tim

conan777

Do step one to clean and lightly polish the surface, Then put on the UPP. Wait approx 12 hours for the UPP to cure and bond then either layer the UPP with a 2nd coat or however many coats you want to apply (waiting 12 hours between coats) then I'd probably top it with your nuba step 3 wax (after the last coat of UPP has cured for 12 hours). If step 2 is a glaze that will help fill in some of the minor spider web swirls you may have but if put down prior to your UPP you most likely will have issues with the UPP bonding to your paint properly and will prob look very streaky in which case you will have to start over. I would skip that step. Waxes can be placed atop a glaze but not sealants unless you get something like Danase Wet Glaze which has an acrylic base and can be topped with a sealant but that is another topic.

Basically ....
Step 1 cleaner/Polish
Step 2 skip the mothers product and put on your UPP
Step 3 if you want apply your wax over the UPP to possibly add some depth but it is not necessary for protection as the UPP will take care of that and probably looks very wet already. It is mostly a cosmetic step and many people have different preferences in which wax they like to apply over a sealant.
Hope this answered your question

tihomirbg

iTrader: (1)

Yes,
this answers the question the best way it could be answered. Thank you so much.
Now I have an idea how the whole process should be done.
Tim

tihomirbg

iTrader: (1)

Btw,
one more thinking. I know I have swirls on the trunk and the rear spoiler. Would this clay bar and then the Mother's cleaner/polish take care of that? Or I have to go some different route?

Jesstzn

Claybar won't remove swirls .. and I don't think Mothers cleaner/polish is abrasive enough.

A PC and proper pads / polishes is basically the way to go.

tihomirbg

iTrader: (1)

Anything else that could be used by hand?
I think Excel said to use Meg's #9 but can someone hsow a link what it looks like?