Best wet gloss from WAX/Sealant?
02-27-2008, 09:28 PM
#41
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by tihomirbg
Anything else that could be used by hand?
I think Excel said to use Meg's #9 but can someone hsow a link what it looks like?
I think Excel said to use Meg's #9 but can someone hsow a link what it looks like?
Here is a link to info on it .. it is non-abrasive so its not going to remove swirls but it will fill them .. temporarily.
#9
02-27-2008, 09:46 PM
#43
Former Sponsor
Originally Posted by Jesstzn
Here is a link to info on it .. it is non-abrasive so its not going to remove swirls but it will fill them .. temporarily.
#9
#9
If your going OTC, try some of the Megs #80 Speed Glaze. It was one of the first polishes I used way back, and it is an exception OTC product. You may have to go to a paint and body place, but nonetheless, great stuff. Light abrasive with some filling abilities....
02-27-2008, 09:52 PM
#44
Ok,
now do you have a link where I can see what it look like.
Also are these steps Ok
1. wash
2 clay
3 Megs #80
4 UPP
now do you have a link where I can see what it look like.
Also are these steps Ok
1. wash
2 clay
3 Megs #80
4 UPP
Originally Posted by exceldetail
Crap, that was a terrible recommendation. Thanks for catching it Dale..........I had just replied to an email about a light cleaner/enhancer for a dark color, and this guy wanted OTC, thus #9 on my mind......
If your going OTC, try some of the Megs #80 Speed Glaze. It was one of the first polishes I used way back, and it is an exception OTC product. You may have to go to a paint and body place, but nonetheless, great stuff. Light abrasive with some filling abilities....
If your going OTC, try some of the Megs #80 Speed Glaze. It was one of the first polishes I used way back, and it is an exception OTC product. You may have to go to a paint and body place, but nonetheless, great stuff. Light abrasive with some filling abilities....
02-27-2008, 10:19 PM
#45
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by exceldetail
Crap, that was a terrible recommendation. Thanks for catching it Dale..........I had just replied to an email about a light cleaner/enhancer for a dark color, and this guy wanted OTC, thus #9 on my mind......
If your going OTC, try some of the Megs #80 Speed Glaze. It was one of the first polishes I used way back, and it is an exception OTC product. You may have to go to a paint and body place, but nonetheless, great stuff. Light abrasive with some filling abilities....
If your going OTC, try some of the Megs #80 Speed Glaze. It was one of the first polishes I used way back, and it is an exception OTC product. You may have to go to a paint and body place, but nonetheless, great stuff. Light abrasive with some filling abilities....
02-27-2008, 10:27 PM
#46
So,
these Megs products are like old school.
Then, what is the new school?
these Megs products are like old school.
Then, what is the new school?
Originally Posted by Jesstzn
No problem .. only reason I was up on it as I have Megs #2 #9 etc in the cabinet from years ago .... My trouble is once I got the PC I sort of lost all touch with what works by hand. Human nature lol ( and I'm lazy )
02-27-2008, 10:32 PM
#47
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by tihomirbg
So,
these Megs products are like old school.
Then, what is the new school?
these Megs products are like old school.
Then, what is the new school?
Some of these products were put out with body shop intended use before the equiment was affordable to the back yard guy .. With the evolution of the PC and pads also comes new school polishes but most intended for PC use.
02-27-2008, 10:38 PM
#48
So,
for these swirls that I have on the trunk and wing spoiler, what would you recommend to use by hand after claying the car?
for these swirls that I have on the trunk and wing spoiler, what would you recommend to use by hand after claying the car?
Originally Posted by Jesstzn
Not old school .. everything has it place ... and its purpose.
Some of these products were put out with body shop intended use before the equiment was affordable to the back yard guy .. With the evolution of the PC and pads also comes new school polishes but most intended for PC use.
Some of these products were put out with body shop intended use before the equiment was affordable to the back yard guy .. With the evolution of the PC and pads also comes new school polishes but most intended for PC use.
02-28-2008, 07:09 AM
#51
Former Sponsor
Originally Posted by Savio
UPP + AquaWax FTW!
Hes got to get rid of some swirls and light scratching though first! A PC/UDM would certainly be a step in the right direction, and a significant upgrade when it comes time to polish.
03-02-2008, 10:38 AM
#53
Originally Posted by tihomirbg
Which polish is to use right after the clay or maybe right after the Mothers Pre-Wax Cleaner for better shine and possible removing swirls by hand.
03-02-2008, 01:38 PM
#54
Thank you so much for answering my questions.
I would like to ask you if this would work. Bought it 2 years ago and used it 2 times the most on my previous car before I bought the TL and I would like you to give me your thought. Would that work with good polish to fallow after the clay bar? And of course I would have to buy polishing pad.
Here are the pics.
I would like to ask you if this would work. Bought it 2 years ago and used it 2 times the most on my previous car before I bought the TL and I would like you to give me your thought. Would that work with good polish to fallow after the clay bar? And of course I would have to buy polishing pad.
Here are the pics.
03-02-2008, 02:24 PM
#55
Former Sponsor
3/4 of an amp isnt going to get you very far, in any amount of time.......Those are ok for final buffing, but its not going to remove scratches or swirls....
03-02-2008, 03:27 PM
#57
Here's my response from a thread cocerning the PC/UDM
Originally Posted by Hawhyen51
. . . The majority of the regulars who post often prefer a Porter Cable (PC) 7424/7336 Dual Action buffer or the new Ultimate Detail Machine (UDM). The buffer you're referring to is limited to applying and removing a product and nothing more. The max orbits per minute (OPM) is 3200 depending on the model and up to 6000 for the PC. It will have either one or two speeds vs the PC's variable speed setting. The PC/UDM is a more versatile machine allowing the user to choose from a variety of pads for buffing to paint correction and the results will be consistent every time. The tool is foolproof and simple to use and there are a number of tutorials available online demonstrating its simplicity and effectiveness. The PC/UDM will not burn paint and any damage to paint is usually user incurred or initiated. Granted, it's more expensive than a $30-70 buffer, but the investment in the long run will pay for itself. Visit any of the other detailing forums and you'll probably read the same comments.
. . . The majority of the regulars who post often prefer a Porter Cable (PC) 7424/7336 Dual Action buffer or the new Ultimate Detail Machine (UDM). The buffer you're referring to is limited to applying and removing a product and nothing more. The max orbits per minute (OPM) is 3200 depending on the model and up to 6000 for the PC. It will have either one or two speeds vs the PC's variable speed setting. The PC/UDM is a more versatile machine allowing the user to choose from a variety of pads for buffing to paint correction and the results will be consistent every time. The tool is foolproof and simple to use and there are a number of tutorials available online demonstrating its simplicity and effectiveness. The PC/UDM will not burn paint and any damage to paint is usually user incurred or initiated. Granted, it's more expensive than a $30-70 buffer, but the investment in the long run will pay for itself. Visit any of the other detailing forums and you'll probably read the same comments.
03-04-2008, 10:16 PM
#59
Former Sponsor
Power mods are useless (well not REALLY) with a non stunning looking car, agreed?
A car that rips but just looks ok? Or a car that looks stellar, but all all stock.....Hmmmm
A car that rips but just looks ok? Or a car that looks stellar, but all all stock.....Hmmmm
03-04-2008, 10:24 PM
#60
T-Swzy
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well, when it gets warmer on monday, imma take pictures of everything wrong with my exterior. then imma get professional tips from all of you. and then by spring break i spend 2 weeks wailin on may car
03-06-2008, 02:05 PM
#63
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Question about paint cleaner and polish
I've been doing alot of research and feel like a I have my basics covered to keep my car in great shape.
Wash
Clay
Polish
Wax
But, I was checking out Meguiars products and Im confused about the Paint Cleaner and Polish. Are both necessary or will the polish just do the job find after I clay the car? It says the paint cleaner will remove swirls, etc, but I thought polish did that?
Wash
Clay
Polish
Wax
But, I was checking out Meguiars products and Im confused about the Paint Cleaner and Polish. Are both necessary or will the polish just do the job find after I clay the car? It says the paint cleaner will remove swirls, etc, but I thought polish did that?
03-06-2008, 05:55 PM
#64
Former Sponsor
Originally Posted by JC#17
But, I was checking out Meguiars products and Im confused about the Paint Cleaner and Polish. Are both necessary or will the polish just do the job find after I clay the car? It says the paint cleaner will remove swirls, etc, but I thought polish did that?
Last I checked, paint cleaners are chemical cleaners which clean via, ahem.....chemicals.
Polishes, on the other hand contain very mild abrasives which abrade your clear coat in a very safe and effective manner.......Paint cleaners "can" removeswirls but are highly dependant upon pad selection. They then act as a lubricant for the foam or wool cutting action.....
03-06-2008, 06:32 PM
#65
Suzuka Master
The experience I have had with paint cleaners & swirls id if the swirl is in the oxidized layer it comes off with the oxidization.
Haven't tried it as a lub for a wool pad tho. I guess the pad does the cutting.
Haven't tried it as a lub for a wool pad tho. I guess the pad does the cutting.
03-07-2008, 01:19 AM
#66
Shogun Assassin
I have some very light swirl marks on my WDP '02 TL-S and I was thinking of investing in a UDM. I'm still undecided on which polish to use but I was leaning towards Poorboy's SSR1. If I go this route, will I be able to still use Z2? Is it even a proper sealant? Sorry for the n00b questions.
03-07-2008, 08:35 AM
#67
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by fahoumh
I have some very light swirl marks on my WDP '02 TL-S and I was thinking of investing in a UDM. I'm still undecided on which polish to use but I was leaning towards Poorboy's SSR1. If I go this route, will I be able to still use Z2? Is it even a proper sealant? Sorry for the n00b questions.
03-09-2008, 07:58 PM
#68
I washed, clayed, buffed/polished, applied sealant to my dads TL today.
I used the Meguiar's 21 synthetic sealant. Tomorrow I will follow up with a coat of Meg's 26 yellow wax. The sky clouded up so I couldn't get any good sun shots.
I used the Meguiar's 21 synthetic sealant. Tomorrow I will follow up with a coat of Meg's 26 yellow wax. The sky clouded up so I couldn't get any good sun shots.
Last edited by powerflow; 03-09-2008 at 08:02 PM.
03-09-2008, 10:28 PM
#69
Former Sponsor
Looks sharp! Next time start a new thread, with process and product for all to view. Sometimes threads get stale, and are not revisited by all participants.
03-10-2008, 01:10 PM
#70
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Originally Posted by conan777
Just a side note when applying any sealant...make sure you wait approx 12hrs between coats otherwise you will simply remove the underlying coat and waste your time and product. The sealant needs time to cross link and bond to the paint which generally takes approx 12 hours, give or take...I believe that includes waiting 12 hours before applying a carnauba wax over a sealant as well but I'm not 100% sure on that one. Anyone?
after 12 hours dust will settle on your car and other contaminants, should you wash you car before layering more sealant or can you just use a quick detailer.
also can you drive your car around while waiting those 12 hours, my car being a daily driver, highly doubt i can go 2 days without driving it.
one more question is it necessary to use a clearner wax before using a sealant. i see that FS recommends it before using their UPP.
03-10-2008, 01:37 PM
#71
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by bo0sty
after 12 hours dust will settle on your car and other contaminants, should you wash you car before layering more sealant or can you just use a quick detailer.
A QD isn't a good idea between layers unless your doing Zaino and your using thiers.
also can you drive your car around while waiting those 12 hours, my car being a daily driver, highly doubt i can go 2 days without driving it.
Yeep .. drive it but don't wash it till your ready to apply another layer. If at all possible keep it out of the rain for 12 hrs after too.
one more question is it necessary to use a clearner wax before using a sealant. i see that FS recommends it before using their UPP.
A QD isn't a good idea between layers unless your doing Zaino and your using thiers.
also can you drive your car around while waiting those 12 hours, my car being a daily driver, highly doubt i can go 2 days without driving it.
Yeep .. drive it but don't wash it till your ready to apply another layer. If at all possible keep it out of the rain for 12 hrs after too.
one more question is it necessary to use a clearner wax before using a sealant. i see that FS recommends it before using their UPP.
03-10-2008, 07:00 PM
#72
Racer
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alright so wash it before doing another layer, thanks for all your help.
but if i stick with the same company, the FS cleaner wax should benefit the FS UPP...right? or is cleaner wax not necessary and more of just an insurance that the Sealant will get optimal bonding.
but if i stick with the same company, the FS cleaner wax should benefit the FS UPP...right? or is cleaner wax not necessary and more of just an insurance that the Sealant will get optimal bonding.
03-10-2008, 07:09 PM
#73
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by bo0sty
alright so wash it before doing another layer, thanks for all your help.
but if i stick with the same company, the FS cleaner wax should benefit the FS UPP...right? or is cleaner wax not necessary and more of just an insurance that the Sealant will get optimal bonding.
but if i stick with the same company, the FS cleaner wax should benefit the FS UPP...right? or is cleaner wax not necessary and more of just an insurance that the Sealant will get optimal bonding.
I would assume so.
03-10-2008, 08:12 PM
#74
Originally Posted by powerflow
I washed, clayed, buffed/polished, applied sealant to my dads TL today.
I used the Meguiar's 21 synthetic sealant. Tomorrow I will follow up with a coat of Meg's 26 yellow wax. The sky clouded up so I couldn't get any good sun shots.
I used the Meguiar's 21 synthetic sealant. Tomorrow I will follow up with a coat of Meg's 26 yellow wax. The sky clouded up so I couldn't get any good sun shots.
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