I hate cars

Also, once plugs are fuel fouled they're not done. Usually all it takes is a couple full throttle runs and they're fine again. Dumping Seafoam in there puts it into a severely rich condition which is what fouls the plugs. It's not any cleaning that's being done that fouls the plugs, it's the Seafoam itself burning. Same with the smoke out of the exhaust. You're seeing Seafoam burning, nothing more.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Matt, hence I mentioned not sure what is keeping my heads clean...maybe its just me being religious with my maintenance...


butttt I will tell you this, our* manifolds are FAR from being clean....unless oil in the intake path is an acceptable clean....

the PCV system and the EGR system mess it up....I have seen oil stains from the TB to the lower intake runners....from the time I put a catch can in and EGR block off plate, now the manifold and runners STAYS very very CLEAN !!!

to a point, I dont have to run any cleaner in the air system anymore....

as for running seafoam in the fuel to clean the fuel lines/rail/injectors, again am unsure of Seafoams work there and I have not seen the bottom end of the car so know if there was any deposits/cleaning required....I have heard from many (and now from you) that our cylinders stay very clean, unless something is wrong....

finally, adding seafoam in the oil will def make the oil thinner and hence I change it (the oil) within 100 miles of adding seafoam in there....again, am not sure if its cleaning or harming anything....

I do not see any oil leaks from any seals or from the bottom of the car etc....also I would not know of the cleaning power until I take the heads off and check the rods/pistons/rings...

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

to the point, not to a point.

You go ahead and school Matt on how an internal combustion engine works.

Word trickery...hence...always not wrong and that's a pretty acceptable clean, in my book.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

to a point is actually correct....or atleast I thought it was


they (TB/Manifold/Runners) are clean to a point that I dont have to run a intake cleaner anymore....and am not trying to coach IHC, he knows more than me....I am just listing my experience....

but please go ahead contribute your ramblings

I hate cars

But here's what you have to ask yourself. Does the oil film or even a puddle affect performance? Does a micron thick layer of carbon on the intake walls hurt performance? The answer is a big fat no. It is not restricting or disrupting airflow at all.

The only place that used to need to be cleaned was the intake ports of the heads. With modern fuel with its detergents spraying that area it's cleaner than the rest of the intake tract (DI excluded).

What you see in the intake manifold will have about as much affect on performance as dirt on the outside of the engine.

Adding it to the oil most definitely hurts the oils ability to lubricate. It's just like if you ran a straight 5w in the engine. It wouldn't fail right away. It would probably go several thousands of miles on it, probably 50k or so as long as you're nice but the damage is being done. Most of those types of additives stress not to drive the car or to drive it very easy. This is not a good sign. What does Seafoam say?

Last, my valvetrain is considerably cleaner and it's never seen any sort of oil additive, just good oil changed at reasonable intervals. I've never seen anything clean like Amsoil ACD and Redline. I have no oil puddling, just a film of oil but it's probably because of Redlines high NOACK value.

These engines stay very clean with just decent oil changed at regular intervals and premium fuel. Everything in the intake tract is superficial.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

THERE !!!

exactly what I wanted to hear....guess no more seafoam for me


yes, just like you, I have ran a relatively small OCI (always at 5K which is very low OCI for most GRP3/4 engine oils)....so yes, I dont not supposed seafoam had anything to do with the cleaning....

about the intake, good to know a little oil wont hurt anything....ofcourse its not a big puddle but I get your point regarding a tiny layer of film...

this talk only makes me want to take the heads off and check how the bottom end is....but I dont want to do that unless I am going to be doing some serious modding


Thanks for the explanation Matt, you know I always appreciate it and learn from it....

CrazyEights

iTrader: (1)

This went from a run of the mill oil thread to a lesson, love it. Thanks for the explanations IHC and swoosh, isn't it time you take a look at the bottom end and maybe replaced some things

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

I will be honest, these engines are almost bulletproof (exactly opposite of our early 5AT transmissions LOL)....

IHC can correct me if am wrong but Bert (a member here) ran over 450whp on the stock engine (bottom end and heads) before he bumped up the boost and blew something and then built the bottom end and a 550+whp monster....

I certainly am not going to run that kind of power, so I dont think we can fudge the engine/bottom end up....

I do want to run some kind of forced induction but I need to do a lot more reading before am even close to that kind of knowledge and caliber...

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

I love how some peoples words are scripture. Blah blah blah. Even when your own logic is completely satisfactory for the given situation.

Blah blah blah

Seafoam it up! If done properly there are no negatives possible, only positives.

Blah blah blah I write long posts so it's God's own words. Blah blah blah.

I hate cars

We're very fortunate in the bottom end. Luckily what works to reduce NVH also usually makes the bottom end stronger. I would have no problem running the crank to 1,500hp and above. The block is 6 bolt and the weak link will most likely be the cylinders walking but I have an idea that won't occur until north of 1,000hp. The rods could be better but they're forged. The pistons actually take the power just fine. I believe there are people making 750whp on the stock bottom. The key is you can only run it for quick 1/4 blasts or you risk butting the rings together from heat. But still , that's amazing from an engine that originally made 250hp.

Even the stock heads flow enough for over 1,000hp under pressure but no telling how the stock headgasket would take it. If you wanted a car that you could put $6,000 into with your own labor to really piss some Lambo and Ferrari owners off for 10 seconds at a time you could probably do it with one of these stock Js and a hairdryer.

I firmly believe if Bert wasn't doing those high end runs his would still be alive at 550hp. To keep it in perspective that's about the same and a little more than a ZR1 puts to the wheels.

I hate cars

You're allowed to explain to us how Seafoam helps. No one is stopping you so I'm not sure why you're so defensive and trying to make it personal but you sound like a little jealous baby. I laid out my reasons as to why it does not help and why it can be bad. You can prove me wrong or you can come up with your own reasons but the ignorant temper tantrum isn't going to work.

nfnsquared

Yup, I agree. Whatever is on sale would probably be fine even at normal MID intervals for your normal DD...

Agreed as well.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Matt...went to amazon and typed in AUTO RX to check the price and the first product to pop up was Seafoam

nfnsquared

Speaking of which:

Oil change and tire rotation for $20 at SEARS

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Haha haha hahaha



Even if I have a free coupon, I would rather do it at home...

Not hating SEARS or Jiffy lube or any other shop for that matter but I know they won't be as meticulous as I am....all it takes is 1 idiot hitting the oil drain plug with an impact and next think you know is you are replacing the oil pan...

The only Firestone I go to is about 15 miles away because the guy never uses an impact gun...takes and puts the lugs on traditional style...I have lifetime balance rotate and alignment with them....rest all gets done at home...

ThatAlbanian

nothing but Mobil1 synthetic on my 07 TL type S

I hate cars

That's awesome lol. If you end up trying it let me know what you think. I don't think any of us have enough junk in the engine for it to make a difference but it is very good at cleaning the ring land area which is one of the only places that can cost hp and mpg.

sopmodm14

i agree because most oils essentially complete its function .... lubrication

although synthetics are better, there's probably neglible difference between brands

OIL FILTERS however, i think there are bigger differences .... you don't want a generic fram cheap paper one