Has anyone here done a spark plug replacement themselves? I want to change mine. I would also like to do the plug wires as well. I'm at 93,000 miles now and I feel that I should have had them replaced a while ago.

At what mileage should we do this and is it something I can easily do myself. I prefer to do work on my car because it saves me money but if it is something that will be dificult or have the potential for me to f*ck it up, I won't attempt it. I am asking because it seems the the spark plugs that are rear facing seem like they will be a challenge to get out.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

I have, it's cake. Of course spark plugs will seem cake considering we do lots of custom work and engine swaps and what not in our other cars. Don't cheap out on the plugs though, the price you do a double take but it's a required expense.

All to often people just take their cars to the dealer for work on here I've noticed. Makes finding information rather difficult at times, just takes some sifting through everything to find what you need

 

Thanks for the quick reply. Actually I did some searching on here but haven't come up with some good info on anyone doing this work for themselves or if they have, they didn't say anything about how.

Do I need to remove the hood at all the get to the rear facing spark plugs?

 

There is a section in gen3 called Garage, for all the DIYS, and there is one on this job
DONT touch the hood bolts ever!!!
These are my personal tips:
For the rear plugs you need a 3 inch long and 6 inch long extensions- its tight fit but that way you lower the spark plug socket down and add another piece to extend it out far enough for the ratchet to attach.
Buy a good socket with rubber insert or magnetic tip- designed just for spark plugs.
Get 1 foot of vac tubing- use on end of new plug to lower into hole and start the threads by fingertip feel turning the hose-
Its easy to cross-thread them with just using tools to start the threads-
Use a small amount of thread anti sieze-(the $1 pack) a stripe up the threads of each plugs will do nicely- helps plug go in and prevents corrosion- dont overload it- just a dab.
Removal of the strut crossbar- remove a few nuts- adds valuable work room

There are no wires- each plug has its own coil
Buy NGK Iridium plugs- available at local parts stores that sell NGK
thats what came in the car and works best- cost about 7 bucks per plug.
Handle the coils delicatly- dropping one results in its $50 failure

DO 1 front plug to see how it all goes together- following the DIY pics and directions, then the rears which take some time- then the easy fronts to finish!
Should take about 1.5-2 hours total... depending on frustration level and abilty to stretch across engine to reach rear plugs

Do a Seafoam treatment to the intake manifold and gas tank before the plug change- see DIY section- it removes carbon and crud buildup so the new plugs have a clean place to work at max performance
$25 of stuff does a better job than the $150 dealer version of same type treatment

FYI- the plugs are scheduled for replacement at 105k miles with the water pump/timing belt job- thats about $1200 and should adjust the valves too- its a few hours labor for that- but pays back in smooth running-- like new engine and better gas mileage
Many ziners replace the plugs about 60-70k miles and find restored power

Its not tough- just work one plug at a time- take a break now and then and it will all go well

 

you will find a lot of DIYs in the gen2 TL section- many of the mods and general repair/maitenace work are direct to gen3--the brakes, plugs, suspension....

We are more-- on a budget--- do it at home- kind of people.

 

And very important tip, make sure the engine is cool, and hasn't been running for hours...

I've learned this important lesson on my 2G, especially when taking out the rear plugs. I had tears of joy rolling down my face lol. (and pain)

 

Agreed. + you learn about your car faster this way (in term of doing maintenance).

 

I'll remember not to mess around a hot engine.

 

Can someone give me the link to the DIY for this in the 3G garage? I can't seem to find it. maybe i'm looking for the wrong terms, but a search for spark plugs just doesn't come up.

Also, if I get the 3 and 6 inch extensions, I'm assuming i use the 6 inch first and then tack on the 3 inches right?

 

You may find this thread useful https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/changing-spark-plugs-639382/

 

Thanks for the link! As long as the 3G is similar to the 2G, I should be fine, I hope.

 

actually its spark plug socket attached to 3 inch,- slide that into the hole- you will understand when the coil is removed and its wayyyyy down to get to the plug, and for the rears, this is where it matters---

fronts are way easier and you can do what you want
Its the physical amount of space available to turn and move the tools into position for the back plugs

only differance between gens is #optional# remove the strut tower bar on g3- that black bar thing that goes across from one side to the other- 2 or 3 nuts to remove on each side- lifts right off
Now there is more room to work ,,,it will make sense when you remove the plastic covers and do the first plug in front to learn

Remember- If you use anything but NGK Iridium plugs, I will bug you every day until you change them, and feel what the right plugs in the car can do!

Seafoam the intake vac port and gas tank before plug change- a few days to a week if possible- get all the crud out of the engine- then install the new plugs
Thats just a safety measure to protect the new plugs from debris, but if you already did the plugs- its ok to seafoam and do a good hot foot drive afterwards to make sure the plugs are kept clean

 

What do u think of the E3's?
http://www.sparkplugs.com/E3/

Looks interesting. One guy here said he like them in his TL. Man I miss the search feature here.......

 

Ok, So I did the fronts yesterday... No problem. I was planning to do the rears on another day since I didn't have the 3 inch socket extension. I'm going to be picking it up today. But I took a look at the area I have to work in. I don't know how I'm going to fit a 6 inch extension in there on top of the 3 inch. Are you sure the 3 inch goes in first and then the 6 inch? I was thinking about going with 2, 3 inch extensions. Would this work?

Also, anyone know the torque specs for the bolts on the strut tower bar?

Thanks!

 

anyone?

 

It is actually easier then it looks. I would suggest taking of the strut bar, this gives a lot of extra room to work. I used my 3" and 6" to do mine. Super simple. You can actually get the 3" with the spark plug socket in then attach the 6" one to it and loosen it up with the ratchet. Then do the rest by hand and lift up. Once you lift up grab the 3" adapter and separate it from the 6" and then remove the 3", socket and plug.

 

use whatever combo order of extensions work- but 6 inches total is not going to be long enough

 

I used a couple of towels underneath a 2'X3" sheet of 1/4" plywood across the engine so I could lay on top of the engine, from the front. and comfortably reach behind the manifold to work on the rear plugs. (A trick I learned doing my old Solara and my Dad's Camry and Avalon) It just makes it a little easier on your back to be able to lay across the engine from the front of the car. Get'R Done!

 

some like to lay across the engine- some like to reach from the side
Whatever works- just get back there~

You seafoamed the engine before the plug change rightr?

 

no seafoam... I literally just did the read on the thread you did... I got 3 plugs done at this point so it's too late to do it before the change...bummer. Is it fine to do the vac port after I switch all the plugs out? It won't hurt the new plugs at all would it?... I'm probably going to do an oil change in Oct. and will do the seafoam in the crank case at that time. The gas tank is a no brainer so...

No torque specs on the strut bar?... Anyone? just get it on tight?...

 

as tight as it was when you removed it! they are small bolts so tighten gently
Check the other bolts for the strut- a medium tug on the ratchet or wrench will do.

You can do seafoam after new plugs, JUST be really good about the 4000 rpm for 10 minutes drive after - then do some fun runs, low speed 2nd gear and jump on it, the intent being to make it hot hot in the engine and exhaust- that will burn off all the crud and you wont have any probs

Put a can of seafoam in 1/2 tank of gas- get Deep Creep - seafoam in spray can, for the manifold vac- makes it way eaiser to do the job

 

and remember to put a dab of dielectric grease into the coil pack.makes it easier to take off next time and helps with corrosion&carbon tracking.

 

to elaborate:
buy the $1 packet of spark plug THREAD grease at parts store counter,
NOT the Boot grease

Make a thin stripe up the length of the threads OR make a thin circle
around threads # 2 and 3, counting up from the open end

You DONT want to use so much that it gets shoved down into the cylinder and gets on the piston!!!!
Just a tiny bit will make them go right into their threads, and prevent lockup and bad things as described above

I use a 1 foot long piece of vacuum tubing- fits on top of spark plug, ease the new plug down into the threads and start them with fingertip precision and feel

 

So is it pretty accepted that the NKG's are the best plugs for our cars? Is there anything better out there, if cost were not an option?

 

i went with the NGK's btw... It's stock for the car so I'll stick with what Acura intended for the car...

Thanks for all the great info guys! If it would just stop raining so I can do some of the damn work already...

 

the only approved plugs are denso and NGK
The car came with NGK Platinums in gen2 and Iridium in gen3
Its good to use NGK Iridium IX in gen2- they last longer and cost less than denso too!

A few ziners are testing E3 and Pulse plugs for us- with mild 1mpg results than could be from having new plugs.
No one has run a dedicated 3 months on 1 plug then test the other brand to see if they really work.

 

On NGK's website they have two Iridium plugs, the IX, and then a Laser. For the 3G TL I am guessing the plugs to get are the IX's?

 

laser is a designation referring to how they weld the electrode on~

Gen2 uses Iridium IX
Gen 3 Iridium--no ix for them- not listed- dont know why- dont know what it means

Buy them at any local parts store that sells NGK- just under 7 dollas each! (gulp)
be glad they last a long time!

 

I was thinking about the 3 rear plugs and remembered the old 2.8 and 3.1 fwd GM cars. There was a "dogbone" mount at the top that could be loostened on one end and then roll the vehicle back while in park. This would rock the engine forward, which made more room at the back of the engine. Once the engine rolled forward I would pull the hand brake or chock the wheels so it wouldnt roll back.

Can something like this be done with the TL to gain better access to the rear plugs?

 

GUYS, I AM ABOUT TO CHANGE THE SPARK PLUGS. I OWNED HONDA CRX 88 BEFOE AND DID IT ALL THE TIME, IT WAS RELATIVELY SIMPLE. COMPARED TO THAT, TL-S HAS 6 PLUGS, 3 OF THEM LOOKS LIKE AN ASSHOLE TO REPLACE. ANY OTHER THING I SHOULD CARE ABOUT?
COULD U GUYS GIVE THE SOCKET SIZE FOR SPRAK PLUG, I AM ABOUT TO BUY THE EXTENSION. IT SAYD 6 AND 3 EXTENSION FOR 9 INCH EXTENSION. WHY NOT JUST 9INCH EXTENSION ALL TOGETHER? tHANKS!

 

Here is the link to a great DIY with pictures to change the spark plugs.

http://www.acura-tsx.com/forums/show...php?p=11681736

 

Anyone knows the torque for the spark plugs?

 

13 according to this thread

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/just-installed-new-spark-plugs-637131/

 

I did all of my plugs with a ratchet and 6" ext. 2 things you will have to remove:

1. IMRC as it covers up the middle plug coil pack
2. PS hose bracket as it makes getting to the last plug (passenger side) a giant pita

On my 02 CL-S there was plenty of room to lower the ratchet and ext down into the plug hole but having the strut bar in the way was annoying. I would recomend taking that thing off first as it will make it easier since you do not have to reach under or over it. Personally if I used the 3" extention it would have been like this:

ratchet
3" ext
u-joint
6" ext

 

yeah I found this after I posted...I did part of my 105k service today...Total system clean using seafoam....below are some pics of the plugs wrench...the rear plugs were real easy when I removed the stabilizer bar..used a six inch
extension worked real well..

 

^ - After I did my plugs and a seafoam I easily noticed a 30-50 mile per tank improvement.

 

^^^ it's a b!tch if you do not remove the strut bar lol
Thread revival FTW.

 

Hey guys, I am trying to do the spark plug change on my 2004 TL, and when I undo front most right and try to take our the coil, I do not have enough room because of the white little radiator tank, do I need to take it out in order to remove the coil? Thank you.

 

Yup, I had to at least loosen it and move it a little. Also had an impossible time with the 3 rear plugs until I removed the strut bar. Then it was cake.

 

Which vacuum line on the intake manifold can i use to feed the seafoam in????