Vlad_Type_S

iTrader: (3)

Sup ziners. I thought it might be nice to do a DIY for this since I didn’t see one in the garage. This is a very simple job, but I know not everyone out there is mechanically inclined, so I wanted to share the process. If this helps even one person, it’ll have been worth the effort. Plus I want to contribute something to the site that I’ve been sucking from like a leech.

This was done on a 2008 TL Type-S, but I think the procedure is just about identical for all 3G TLs. Please forgive the dirty state of the engine bay. It’s Chi-beria out here this winter as usual.

Purpose
What does this mod do? Makes your shifter feel more crisp, especially if you have the CT short shifter already installed.

Tools
Required
Philips #2 Screwdriver
10mm socket w/ ratchet and extensions
Thin head pliers, preferably with small handle
Flat screwdriver

Optional, but recommended:
8mm socket with at least 6” extension
Fender cover
Assortment of Screwdrivers with various diameter shafts

Procedure
1) Crack a beer. “You can have any brew you want, as long as it’s a Corona.” #rememberthebuster



2) Place your fender cover. Not required, but if you care about your paint (since you’re modding your car, you probably do!) you’ll put one down. They’re very inexpensive at Harbor Freight and if you’re doing automotive work, you really should have one.

3) Remove the air cleaner element.

First, loosen the hose clamp around the throttle body with the 10mm socket. Also, disconnect the wire harness from the connector on top of the throttle body. Remove the cable from the rubber compression hook on the air cleaner element.



Next, loosen the 4 screws around the air cleaner housing. You can use a Philips head screwdriver, but I highly recommend an 8mm socket with extensions because it’s so much easier and you won’t strip the heads. Just be careful not to snap the bolts (I’ve done this before). After taking these off, remove the hose clamp and pipe from the air cleaner tube near the fuse box




Finally, you’ll have to remove two plastic clips that hold a wire harness to the air cleaner. This is done easiest with some skinny, curvy headed pliers, but I’ve done it with my bare hands before.



After this part comes off, remove the air filter. Then undo this bolt with the 10mm socket:



And then undo this bolt with the same socket.



The bottom half should easily twist out of place now. Set that aside.

4) Now we’ll need to remove the old bushings. Whip out the pliers you have and remove the cotter pins:



The cable ends can now be removed from the shift levers on the transmission by simply pulling up on them.



Before removing the actual bushings, you’ll need to remove the metal caps. I don’t know what they’re actually called, but this is how you take them off. You’ll need to stick the flat headed screwdriver between the rubber bushing and the metal cap. Pry it on one side, and then alternate to the other. Eventually, it will come out enough that you can simply pull it out by hand.





This is what it looks like:



Once you have the metal caps out, you can remove the bushings. This is rather simple: find the largest screwdriver you can that fits in the bushing’s hole. The tip doesn’t matter. When you get it in you’ll want to bend it in such a way that causes the bushing to pop out. What worked the best was to move the screwdriver handle away from where the cable is attached, like so:





5) Awesome, now that you have the old ones out, time to put the new ones in!! Get your new bushings out. Do one at a time. Plop it into place on the cable assembly, but don’t put it on the shift lever yet. Next, you’ll need to install the spiral retaining ring. This is much easier than it looks. First, turn the cable upside down and prop it against something so that it doesn’t move. Spread out the retaining ring like a slinky and, starting with the end, place it in the groove on the bushing. Once you have the end in, circle around with it until it’s completely seated.




Almost done. I had trouble with this bit. The next step is to get the bushings and cables on the levers. The big one is easy because the bushing shaft can rotate. But the little one cannot. There is a trick to making it really easy to put on. You’ll want to get it started on the lever pin. It probably won’t go all the way in. The easiest way to do this is to pull the cable out as far as you can, away from the firewall, and push the lever in the same direction. Then wrap your hand around the cable and twist it in such a way that lines the shaft of the bushing up with the pin on the lever. This picture will probably demonstrate it better.



Once you’ve got it on there, put the cotter pins in. Bushings installed.

6) Now put your air cleaner back on and reconnect everything. Installation is reverse of removal, as usual.

7) Clean and organize your work space! Boom! Done!

EvilVirus

iTrader: (8)

Nice write up

TL Luver

iTrader: (2)

What does this help?...thanks for the write up...

Conan O'Brien

lol i like the first pic. nice write-up. all my car maintenance requires a beer or two as well.

Vlad_Type_S

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the love guys!


Greater details on what this mod does here:

http://www.heeltoeauto.com/pitboard/?p=912

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

Nice write up, but I used this thread when i did my install way back when:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/must-6mt-tl-corsport-aluminum-shifter-cable-bushings-738896/

Vlad_Type_S

iTrader: (3)

Oh cool, thanks for linking that up! Could be useful for someone else looking at this. If I had found that thread, I might not have done this write up. :-P

HondaPrelude1997

I just saw this and I want to say it helped a lot. It’s 2023 and it helped me. I bought some hybrid racing ones too and it but it didnt have the rings. I had to push that sucker in the hole. After that it looks great. I replaced it hoping that it would help, but time will tell if it helped or not.