anyone running a mishimoto thermostat? My car is hovering around 150-160 when I drive faster than 50 mph. In the city it is around 170*F. Outside temp is 20-40*F. Stock cooling system minus the thermostat

 

I don't but I hover around 150* in the city, ambient air is 82*F. 145 intake when it's 75*. I haven't tested it very much on the highway as I'm rarely on it. I'm not sure if that helps or not.

 

^ got ya just wondering if that would cause the car to go into a different map since the car is technically not warmed up. IAT is 20 above ambient

 

oh you're talking coolant, duh. my bad. Does your tune only kick in when the car is in closed loop? Because isn't one of the requirements to go into closed loop that the coolant reaches a certain temp?

 

Yeah i was wondering that about the open and close loop. I emailed Dom to see what he says. Might do a log after I replaced a bolt on the intake manifold.

 

Yes, mine does the same thing. You must alter the closed loop ECT threshold tables in the calibration.

 

Ill check with dom to see if that was done. I have only been boosting 3psi max just because the car feels so much faster in this weather and the roads are slippery.

 

Dom says the temp is too low... Should I try to put some cardboard in front of half the radiator?

 

I said Fk it and put in a new stock thermostat

 

going to be looking for a welder so I can swap out my blow off valve.

 

Sooo how are my boosted buddy doing?

 

Popped a ringland finally at 23lbs about a week ago. Don't know what to do without the beast now.

Been prepping the long awaiting Pauter and Wiseco's ever since.

 

Driving in snow with a ton of power sucks.... Gotta baby the throttle

 

Or get a winter beater like smart people do :P

 

I had my first drive in snow/icy roads with my FWD 4G TL last Thursday. Coming from a civic with a 100 less hp it was it was definitely more difficult to get going as well as stopping. The weight of it is prob a factor too.. I can't even imagine what you go through in those conditions!

 

Snow tires not enough now. Lol need studs

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKh1...b_channel=KenP

 

subscribed even though its old lol

 

lol its not that old :p

 

well lost all hydraulic pressure in the clutch today.. Not sure if it is the master or the slave. But I am buying both... Race car issues I swear

 

not sure what is going on with cylinder 5. Getting misfire/knock when I hit high boost in 3rd. Swapped out to copper plugs and regap to 0.022 to see if that solves the problem. Here are what the ik22 iridium look like and all the gap are off. they were originally 0.031. spec found here https://www.densoproducts.com/product.aspx?zpid=11179

Currently running NGK cooper plugs br7e. they are around 2 bucks a plug

Anyways here is what my denso ik22 looks like.

 

How many miles are on those plugs? Shouldn't they last close to 100k? I'm guessing it's different with a turbo tho :-) That #5 plug almost looks like it has specks of metal or something on the white part of the tip where the other's don't. Almost like little beads of solder. Not sure if it matters but just something I noticed from the close ups.

 

5-7k on them lol

getting a bore scope to see if the specs are aluminium from piston #5

 

Wow that's it. I hope it turns out alright. I've thought about getting one of those borescopes off amazon that hooks up to your cellphone for $20 just for fun after watching some mechanic on youtube say he recently picked one up cheap. He seemed impressed by what he got for the $.

 

Sorry it was $15, Heres the vid, he's got a few decent videos:

 

^ i bought that one on ebay. lol 12 dollar will hook it up to my PC since I have an apple phone

 

That's definitely detonation going on for cylinder 5. The specks are what some refer to as "peppering" and is NOT a good sign.

How does the engine feel at idle when in gear, rougher than normal? Also, if you still have your PCV (located on rear valve cover) routed through to the intake vacuum source, try disconnecting while the engine is running (plug the port on the intake prior to starting) and see if there's any smoke coming from the hose. If yes to either of these, there's a chance the engine is damaged. This is actually what happens to those running boost on stock motors. If neither is noticed, I'd look into a possible clogged injector leaning out the mixture, misadjusted valve clearance, dying ignition coil, possible oil contamination (from head or worn rings), low compression, etc...

 

Not sure if it's possible with the bore scope, but if you can get a look at the combustion chamber too, I'd check that. Always a chance it's hurt there.

 

I hope you caught this before anything bad happened! It's the same cylinder that blew here: https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-p.../#post15963447

 

Yeah I hope so too. well see

 

I had a ringland break on #5 as well.

No cylinder or head damage at all. But it failed leakdown test terribly.

 

Bad cylinder 5 bad. 😭

 

well looking at cheap motor to build. China rods and 9.5 CR pistons? not sure if I want to do a j30 or bump it up to a j32. also looking at p2r stainless steel valves, and valve springs and retainers.

 

H beam or X beam for rods?

https://newlandautoparts.en.alibaba....cting_Rod.html

 

why not J35?

 

can't find cheap connecting rods and I like the over square motor for high rev

 

That doesn't sound good. Are the cylinder walls damaged and does that mean a new block or can you put sleeves in? Sucks but its a good excuse to build out a new engine :-)

 

i havent looked at it yet since scope not here. but found some H beam rods

HONDA 3.0L J30A1/A4 ACCORD FORDGED H BEAM ROD 6.378" 6PCS/SET WITH ARP BOLTS

 

Are you staying J30? I would go with J32 if you can find a shortblock/longblock/spare engine. Not for replacement for displacement reasons, but for bore. Bigger bore is always better. You already have heads that are made for an 89mm bore, so it will be optimized better with the combustion chamber to piston mating.

The J makes enough torque N/A that I would probably go 9:1 to avoid any issues with a decent amount of boost and using pump 93. I know you can't find Ethanol out there in VA, but is it available in CA? If so, don't discount the option. Mileage will be poop, but it's a motor saver. Much better octane, and runs much cooler.

I'd like to know the weight on those I-beam rods. The H-beams on ebay are 555g, I wonder if the X or I's are a bit lighter. Any of them will surely be strong enough considering how far people have pushed the stock rods.

What pistons are you going to go with?