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Not had any issues for a few months, but my wife just informed me every now an then the 14 rlx acts like it don't want to start. She really specified the every now an then as she knows I hate dealing with car issues. It does crank but acts like a bad start button. Had the load checked at parts store and they said it was fine. Been searching this forum but can't seem to find anything on slow starts every now an then. Really hate to go to the dealer if it's not doing it regular. Any advise or TSBs anyone knows about? Thanks alot
A few things come to mind. First I do not recall if your RLX is a PAWS model or SH (I looked up your new owner sign in, but it does not specify). The ignition systems of the two models are very different. The SH does not have a starter motor, the 'pancake' motor cranks the car. The pancake motor is powered by the lithium batteries and not the 12V 'accessories' battery.
But I will assume you have a PAWS. If there is crank, the START button is working. It is a simple on / off / accessory switch. If a normal ICE car cranks and does not start it is usually a fuel delivery issue or a spark issue. Where it gets fuzzy is that both of those are electronically controlled, so is the issue due to a hardware or software deficiency. You do not indicate if this slow start is when the vehicle is cold or is between multiple hops / running errands, etc. Or if the crank itself is slow (as if battery juice is insufficient).
RLXs have START / STOP systems which are designed for 'instant' ignition. If your car shut down the ICE at a stoplight, it must start 'instantly' to accelerate away (slightly different in the SH, which initially launches in EV mode). If your START / STOP feature is behaving normally, then the ignition system is working as designed.
So if this only happens on initial start up, there is electronic control being suspect. And why would it only occur at initial start? The PAWS cars are ULEV2 (Ultra Low Emissions Vehicle tier 2). The SH model is SULEV3 (Super Ultra Low Emissions Vehicle tier 3). Part of this emissions control is to minimize emissions, which are the worst at start up. The electronics will alter the start up of the vehicle to contain / reduce emissions to the lowest possible (although it must not do the same at typical START / STOP conditions which need be 'instant'.). It is possible this occasional slow start is ULEV controls in action. And this is a normal periodic condition to the car (most all modern vehicles have this emissions control behavior). If your battery checks OK, and no codes from the software management are issued, I would bet this is simply a ULEV start condition.
RLXs have START / STOP systems which are designed for 'instant' ignition. If your car shut down the ICE at a stoplight, it must start 'instantly' to accelerate away (slightly different in the SH, which initially launches in EV mode). If your START / STOP feature is behaving normally, then the ignition system is working as designed.
I believe the RLX P-AWS does not have the START / STOP system the SH has. I believe the only ones that have that are the 2016-2017 MDX, and the 2015-2017 TLX (but you can turn it off, every time you start the car).
I know my 2015 RLX P-AWS did not have the START / STOP system......
I believe the RLX P-AWS does not have the START / STOP system the SH has. I believe the only ones that have that are the 2016-2017 MDX, and the 2015-2017 TLX (but you can turn it off, every time you start the car).
I know my 2015 RLX P-AWS did not have the START / STOP system......
I had a battery issue with my Sport Hybrid when I first got it (it had sat in the show room for a while and the battery had run down a few times) and, with a weak battery, the car would NOT start. I believe this confirms that the initial start up requires the standard 12v battery and then subsequent start ups during operation are done using the hybrid system battery and the electric motor in the transmission. My car is a Canadian spec '14, so the '16 version may be different.
The pace of sales of the RLX means that many of them sit for a while before being sold and the standard lead acid battery can get discharged with normal parasitic loss. Once the battery is drained below a certain level, they never fully charge again and, while it will still do its job for long trips, a driving pattern that involves many short trips (without time to charge the battery to the new, lower maximum charge) will result in starting problems.
This is based on my experience and not necessarily the cause of the OP's problems, but replacing the battery would be my first action.
Many thanks to you guys for the info, after further questioning the wife she can't recall if it's only when she leaves for work or after its been sitting at work all day. She only said it was like twice a month. Have informed her to keep track for awhile so I can relay on to you guys. She did say it cranks right up the second she lets loose of the button an pushes it again. And it is a PAWS. Thanks again all.
outdoorlife99, from your above post, I would surmise that the battery is not the problem. If your wife is pushing and holding the start button, that may be the problem. Have her push and release the start button quickly and see if the problem continues. Just a guess based on limited information, but worth a try. If she has tried that, please apologize to your wife for me - I never should have doubted her.
Ok folks got an update. I drove the car this weekend with several stops an started. Eating out and shopping etc,. Not the first issue, we even drove to another town just to give a good charging if that may have been the issue. So this morning the wife cranked up to head to work with no problem, stoped to return a redbox movie and cut the car off. When she went to recrank car it did it. Her description was real slow turn over,lights all came on dash and faded out. Naturally she let go, then repushed and fired up just fine. Left work this evening with no issue. So what do you all suggest? Get a new batterie an go from there. Not even going to consider another acura one, just soon buy a top of the line batteries. Thanks again
Based on the subsequent posts & info, I agree it is likely a battery issue. As pgeorg suggested, a loose terminal or ground connection, or the battery may be going bad (not uncommon).
I really do not believe it is the push button START. It is basically an on / off switch. Even if the engine cranks slowly, the switch has to be working to send current to the electronic ignition. Poor battery juice will make the starter crank slowly.
As getakey mentioned, it is warranty work, so just get it to the dealer for service and let them diagnose and repair. That is better than speculating, especially speculating incorrectly.
Mr. Getakey the telescoping steering wheel told on the battery. Long story short the wife had another issue today, and really didn't think the car was going to start, but it did. Went to advance auto to have the battery checked and they said it was bad and advised me to get a replacement from dealer being it was under warranty. Well there top of the line gold top with five year warranty was $124 so rather than drive an hour through Atlanta, wait at least an hour and then drive back an hour, granted this is if all traffic is flowing. I just spent the money and problem fixed for awhile I hope. It's my understanding these things eat battarys anyhow. So if I only have to go up the road for another one it's money well spent I hope. Thanks for all the direction folks.
Good to hear!
Seems like 2 yrs is about the norm for the battery. I thought we started a thread on tell-tale battery signs, but that might have been on the RL Forum. At least the RL made it to 3 yrs.
08-19-2016, 12:16 AM
