no problem for the 3.7 at all and yes, the sound is more pronounced inside the car and a very big difference from stock. you'll see after the install

 

I was just wondering if the battery is remove for the Takeda installation if the car will lose all memory settings, eg. XM radio channels, memory seats, songs on HDD playlist, navigation previous destinations, etc.

Thanks

 

I think my seat settings were lost but everything else (radio presets, songs on HDD, navi destinations) were saved. You'll just have to input your navi code for the radio and nav to work after the install.

 

dang, wish i knew it shipped out of north haven, im going up there this weekend! oh well, gotta sit at home and wait til the 17th.

 

thanks! i just got my intake today but waiting for the car to return from the shop for a painted grille. cannot wait to hear this.

 

oh what code are you referring to? i dont want to lose all my settings after the installation

 

the radio code. for mine its the top code printed on a white sticker. you should have multiple prints of this

 

thanks...but where do i find this sticker? is it part of that big leather package with the books from when you first purchase the car?

 

Well when I bought my car the dealer physically showed me the code(multiple prints on stickers on a paper backing) and placed them into my "leather package with the books". Usually it should be there. For my car, the code was 5 digits above some other code (not sure what this is).

 

thanks a bunch. I'm going to check there when the car come back from the shop.

 

Please tell me they ship to Hawai'i as well

 

nice

 

Yes. Just go onto our website and put in your zip code to see a shipping quote.

http://store.excelerateperformance.com

 

Has anyone actually dyno'd their car with this intake yet? I think this intake makes our cars run too rich and actually loses some power.

I have a buddy that has the same exact intake on his 09 Accord V6 Sedan and when we dyno'd his car, it ran too rich and he actually lost power. I'm thinking this might be an issue with our cars also because I'm assuming that we have the same MAF sensor. His MAF sensor was detecting too much air coming into the engine and didn't know what to do so it just started dumping fuel into the engine hoping to correct it which causes the car to run rich. Just a thought, I dont have anything to back this up with so I might be wrong.

 

TAKEDA showed a 14 hp/tq gain. Each car is different so it might be somewhat less than that but you should expect 10 whp/wtq on average.

 

I hope that dyno chart is right... gonna try to install tomorrow.

I was in Branford this weekend, and saw the Excelerate store! lol didnt stop by, cuz i didnt want the fiance to know i bought an intake. lol

 

how many cars did you actually dyno?

I don't think 1 car proves anything or sets the average.

 

My buddy has dyno'd 3 different cars with the same Takeda intake and they all did the same thing, the cars all ran too rich. I'm pretty sure they were all accords so thats why I dont really know if it only happens in the accord or in our cars also.

I'm going to dyno my AWD with the intake within the next couple months so as soon as I do the dyno, I'll bring the results. Hopefully its not the same with the TL's.

 

If TAKEDA didn't put up a dyno you would say, "The intake provides no gains; why doesn't TAKEDA dyno their part and prove the hp gain". They release a dyno and it's not legitimate enough to establish a hp gain on average?

 

Good luck on dynoing your SH-AWD... if you manage to do it (without dropping the rear driveshaft) you'll be the first one to do it.

 

I did it. It took 20+ pulls, but we did it.

 

Why wouldnt I be able to dyno my AWD?

 

Did you do a write up for when you did this? I don't mean to make a big deal out of it if most people don't view it as a big deal, but to me, it's a big deal

What were your numbers then? Please go into as much detail as possible!



As for you, 2010_TL, the reason you can't dyno (or it's stupid hard to) is because our AWD systems aren't splitting the power 50/50 to each axle like, say, an EVO or STI. Acura's SH-AWD system is primarily front-drive biased and it will send power to the rear wheels only as the sensors are telling it that it needs it. So essentially a dyno rollers will read different HP outputs for the front and rear and computations of the actual WHP and WTQ will come out skewed.

If I am wrong on this, somebody please clarify.

 

the question is not about putting out the numbers, it's about how accurate they are.

I've been using the intake for months now and it's worth it for sound alone.

It can't hurt to have proof that it actually provides gains as well, and I don't mean the 1 car they put up on a dyno.

If anyone in the NY area is going to put their AWD on a dyno let me know, I've been meaning to get my RL on one as well.

 

Hey Guys - just a little help or guidance, I did the same thing as the other poster as it wasn't clearn the 2 metal tubes that are connected were supposed to fully come off, so I kept my original small 5/8" piping that drips out a bit of coolant connected the way it was from stock, and then the bigger hose I connected to the takeda intake to the other metal tube that was exposed now. I clamped it all to make it fit.

The car starts and runs fine, I have the takeda power boost and sound, and no issues.

NOW i realize that I did wrong and that I was supposed to fully replace it with the 2 hoses, but is there anything wrong with what I did, and can I leave it?

Anyone with experience and knowledge can help me and let me know if its ok, or will this be an issue somewhere down the line???

 

Just got my intake for AWD! Let you guys know how it goes...

 

I agree with you. I installed the Takeda intake to my AWD, to me and my friend, except the intake will makes louder noise when pass 4000 or 5000rpm, seriously we didn't feel any different to the stock box filter with a K&N air filter changed....also it actually feel slower at the 1 and 2 gears.....
I also brought the car to a race track again once after I installed the Takeda intake and there were absolutely no big different to a K&N air filter...
I may have to bring the car to my friend shop to have an ECU tune up to see can they get this right....

 

Keep us informed of your results. I was wondering the same thing. The Takeda intake was great at first, even got a small MPG increase but after 10 months, my car now have the same MPG in D or S mode while driving in the city and my MPG decreased by about 1 MPG (D mode went from 18 down to 16 and S mode went from 16.5-17 dwon to 16).

Highway mileage stayed the same for some unknown reason.

I'm curious to know your experience as I was wondering if someone made controlled runs with the Takeda intake (not dyno but actual 1/4 mile or something similar) to see if there was some real, measurable gains.

I would really like to know if there's a way of tuning the ECU to return to what it was just after the install, that would be great.

 

What I didn't implied from my last post is that I'm discontent with the Intake. The sound is great, it's quiet when cruising around city or town. My only question is how faster the TL goes with the Takeda SRI vs stock one? Dynos are nice and cool but it's different to dyno a car with the hood open vs. racing down a 1/4 mile track with the hood closed and the engine bay heat soaked.

 

Had an intake on my RDX but got check engine light right off the bat. Took it to Aamco and got DTC P0172 "Engine too rich". R&R back to factory box and went back to reset and have not had a problem since.
I think the issue is with the diameter of the tube. MAF was messing up air/fuel ratio.

 

If the MAF readings were off it would throw a CEL. If this intake was not flowing properly for the MAF you would know it. Newer MAF-equipped cars are very finicky; the ECU has very stringent parameters for air flow and if it's exceeded or there is turbulence you would get a code.

 

no codes here, got a K&N filter in the stock box and don't intend to use it. I enjoy the sound track too much.

As far as performance difference, I don't feel it.

 

Our cars might be different than the accords but when my buddy had the Takeda intake on his car, there wasnt any codes that came up or anything. But the dyno graphs proved that his car ran too rich.

We swamped his intake back to the stock airbox and after we let the ECU adjust for a day or so, it made a HUGE difference. His car got noticeably quicker than before.

 

Still no word on how you dyno an SH-AWD or even the HP/TQ it put down?

 

Sorry, here is the thread. The shop I went to was really great, they took their time with each pull to put down a solid run. You will notice that this sheet is flat lines. There is no interference or strange lines like on some dynos. The first two charts are from my car, pure stock. You will note we did not take it to redline.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...8&postcount=54

 

Two questions on that dyno. Is it just me or do the HP stats seem disturbingly low? Was that AWD or FWD? In addition, doesn't the graph normally go diagonally up from L to R? Sorry, I don't really understand this dyno stuff.

 

It's AWD, this is fairly typical, not to mention this particular dyno reads the lowest of many of the more common ones. The graph does flow left to right, not sure I follow you there.

 

I think Petec2010 means the Hp numbers goes from L to R in a diagonal line (from low to high as the RPM climb).

 

Ahh yea - sorry that is was I was thinking. Usually they look like (on fwd or rwd) they go diagonally up from L to R, but sounds like that's a AWD thing to be flatter.

 

I called TAKEDA but they said it fit on the 3.5 and don't really fit on 3.7.
Anyone can explain to me why? I though they are same