Another SC Pulley, Last One??
#1
Another SC Pulley, Last One??
I just received the 3.3 inch SC pulley today and installed it tonight. I haven’t taken it for a drive due other matters I needed to attend to. But it went on fine and is still utilizing the standard SC belt.
Remember, this is being used in conjunction with the Comptech 3.275 inch HBP alternator pulley.
This is probably the last pulley we can go to due to clearance. There is less than a quarter inch between the tensioner pulley and the alternator pulley now. Considering the belt takes up half that room there is no room to go further.
We'll see tomorrow if it is holding tight. But since the belt now wraps more of the SC and alternator pulley, I suspect it should hold fine.
This should yield a peak boost around 8.5 PSI with a average of about 8 PSI. I have already accounted for this in the e-Manage by increasing the pulse width linearly according to boost. If my wide band A/F monitor reads lean I will add in some more pulse width. This is through the IC and should be yielding some serious power. I am being cautious though and I would not be attempting this without knowing the A/F ratio or EGT reading at a minimum.
The next plan is to lower the fuel pressure to safer levels and see how much pulse width is needed. I am pretty much sure that larger injectors will be needed which will be the next step. But after that, there is no more room for this blower. It will be turning at a manufacturers limits and the efficiency will be dropping off. If more power is desired it can only be reasonably achieved through a difficult and possibly costly migration to the Eaton/Magnuson MP90 blower. IMO, if even more power is desired we should be going to allmotor_2000's turbo kit.
Pics of the pulleys are below. The one on the left is the base SC pulley which with the HBP and IC generated about 5.5 PSI mean. The middle one is the last pulley which with the same set up made about 7.0 PSI boost mean. The right one should generate about 8.0 PSI mean on the same set up.
Remember, this is being used in conjunction with the Comptech 3.275 inch HBP alternator pulley.
This is probably the last pulley we can go to due to clearance. There is less than a quarter inch between the tensioner pulley and the alternator pulley now. Considering the belt takes up half that room there is no room to go further.
We'll see tomorrow if it is holding tight. But since the belt now wraps more of the SC and alternator pulley, I suspect it should hold fine.
This should yield a peak boost around 8.5 PSI with a average of about 8 PSI. I have already accounted for this in the e-Manage by increasing the pulse width linearly according to boost. If my wide band A/F monitor reads lean I will add in some more pulse width. This is through the IC and should be yielding some serious power. I am being cautious though and I would not be attempting this without knowing the A/F ratio or EGT reading at a minimum.
The next plan is to lower the fuel pressure to safer levels and see how much pulse width is needed. I am pretty much sure that larger injectors will be needed which will be the next step. But after that, there is no more room for this blower. It will be turning at a manufacturers limits and the efficiency will be dropping off. If more power is desired it can only be reasonably achieved through a difficult and possibly costly migration to the Eaton/Magnuson MP90 blower. IMO, if even more power is desired we should be going to allmotor_2000's turbo kit.
Pics of the pulleys are below. The one on the left is the base SC pulley which with the HBP and IC generated about 5.5 PSI mean. The middle one is the last pulley which with the same set up made about 7.0 PSI boost mean. The right one should generate about 8.0 PSI mean on the same set up.
#5
Originally posted by mrsteve
Seriously, does it get any better than Scalbert's car?
Seriously, does it get any better than Scalbert's car?
when will you get a chance to test this sucker out. Also, do you think you can get an incar vid like my previous one. I would love to compare the difference between a manual+HBP+SC MAX Pulley+Intercooled charge. that all equals to LOTS of power and a vid of rpm/speedo gauges would be incredible!
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#8
Originally posted by power3dfx
when will you get a chance to test this sucker out. Also, do you think you can get an incar vid like my previous one. I would love to compare the difference between a manual+HBP+SC MAX Pulley+Intercooled charge. that all equals to LOTS of power and a vid of rpm/speedo gauges would be incredible!
when will you get a chance to test this sucker out. Also, do you think you can get an incar vid like my previous one. I would love to compare the difference between a manual+HBP+SC MAX Pulley+Intercooled charge. that all equals to LOTS of power and a vid of rpm/speedo gauges would be incredible!
#9
hey steve check out this site very usefull for octane mixhttp://www.collectracecars.com/octcalc.htm
#10
I just drove it in to the office and as expected, the boost is up. It peaks at nearly 9 PSI but only for a brief moment during the VTEC change over. It then drops to about 8 PSI by red line. At about 3k revs it is at about 6.5 PSI and climbs to nearly 8 PSI just before the VTEC change over.
Power is certainly up but it is hard to tell how significantly on the street when there is no traction at even 10 - 20 MPH above the posted limits. I did put it in 3rd on an open stretch and it was a beast. I am sure I need to uncork my exhaust now!!!
The A/F numbers looked fine as I had already accounted for the additional boost in the e-Manage. The total pulse width on the injectors has now reached just over 85% duty cycle so larger squirters are indeed needed.
Oh yea, the belt is sitting fine on it and shows no sign of premature wear.
Power is certainly up but it is hard to tell how significantly on the street when there is no traction at even 10 - 20 MPH above the posted limits. I did put it in 3rd on an open stretch and it was a beast. I am sure I need to uncork my exhaust now!!!
The A/F numbers looked fine as I had already accounted for the additional boost in the e-Manage. The total pulse width on the injectors has now reached just over 85% duty cycle so larger squirters are indeed needed.
Oh yea, the belt is sitting fine on it and shows no sign of premature wear.
#12
Originally posted by types1967
what do you think the power would be mixing with the 100octane and no retard on timing
what do you think the power would be mixing with the 100octane and no retard on timing
#15
Good stuff Steve I am very curious about the A/F and your max fuel pressure @ 8psi.
I think Steve's custom setup requires just as much work as a turbo-kit - there's a point when more power is useless power. I have no idea how these kits will run, so we'll have to wait and see.
I think Steve's custom setup requires just as much work as a turbo-kit - there's a point when more power is useless power. I have no idea how these kits will run, so we'll have to wait and see.
#16
Originally posted by allmotor_2000
Good stuff Steve I am very curious about the A/F and your max fuel pressure @ 8psi.
I think Steve's custom setup requires just as much work as a turbo-kit - there's a point when more power is useless power. I have no idea how these kits will run, so we'll have to wait and see.
Good stuff Steve I am very curious about the A/F and your max fuel pressure @ 8psi.
I think Steve's custom setup requires just as much work as a turbo-kit - there's a point when more power is useless power. I have no idea how these kits will run, so we'll have to wait and see.
I agree, with what I have in it and what it will sell for, the turbo system could be had and make more power. I suspect you will be making some serious power with that kit and for those wanting that amount of power it may be a better initial direction.
However, I'm not down on the SC kit as it does offer some advantages while discounting the lower power output. The around town driving behavior of the Eaton blower is certainly superior. Throttle response is superb as is part throttle driving. The Eaton blower does not give the thrust of a turbo; it just makes it feel like there is a bigger engine under the hood.
#18
It will be interesting to see if there is knock when it gets cold out. But that can be taken care of with retarding the timing.
On the way home this afternoon the OAT was reading 93 F and the sun was in full brightness heating everything up well. The car pulled very well, not suffering for the heat as it had in the past. When I got home I checked the IC and coolant and it was very warm. I would say that the coolant was probably about 120 F. Hooking up the laptop gave me an IAT reading of 129 F. That makes sense with the heat soak from sitting in traffic and with road surface temps probably nearing 100 F. I’m bringing home an IR pyrometer and thermometer to test a few things this weekend.
I suspect the blower outlet temps were hitting close to 300 F as the pipe was scorching. With that in mind the IC outlet temps were still probably in the 150 F range based on previous temps. Anyway, it was some rough conditions and the tires were plenty heated for traction but still couldn't put it down in 1st or 2nd.
IMO, 9 PSI should be doable. But you should be able to maintain it through out. Whereas I only saw it for a brief moment and the rest was around 8 PSI.
On the way home this afternoon the OAT was reading 93 F and the sun was in full brightness heating everything up well. The car pulled very well, not suffering for the heat as it had in the past. When I got home I checked the IC and coolant and it was very warm. I would say that the coolant was probably about 120 F. Hooking up the laptop gave me an IAT reading of 129 F. That makes sense with the heat soak from sitting in traffic and with road surface temps probably nearing 100 F. I’m bringing home an IR pyrometer and thermometer to test a few things this weekend.
I suspect the blower outlet temps were hitting close to 300 F as the pipe was scorching. With that in mind the IC outlet temps were still probably in the 150 F range based on previous temps. Anyway, it was some rough conditions and the tires were plenty heated for traction but still couldn't put it down in 1st or 2nd.
IMO, 9 PSI should be doable. But you should be able to maintain it through out. Whereas I only saw it for a brief moment and the rest was around 8 PSI.
#20
I got home this afternoon after another hot day and checked the coolant temps. The OAT was reading 93 F again and the IC coolant was at about 115 F. I used an IR pyrometer on the SC outlet pipe and it was reading 130 F.
Needless to say, the water was hot to touch. I left the car off in the garage for a while and went back to get the coolant temps again and it had dropped to 110 until I turned the pump on without the car running and it went up to just over 120 F but then dropped down to about 115 F within a minute. The coolant in the IC got heated from the heat transferring from the engine but balanced out with the other fluid.
I let the IC pump run for about fifteen minutes with a small fan in front of the car. This only dropped the temp to just under 100 F. Mind you the garage temp was in the mid 90's.
I then wanted to see how well ice worked in the reservoir. I pumped out some of the fluid from the reservoir and refilled with ice with the flow still going. I probably replaced the entire contents of the reservoir with ice which initially melted quickly and then slowed. When done I checked the coolant temp and it was right around 60 F.
PERFECT!!!
This was over 30 degrees below ambient and would have given a greater than 100% efficiency. I suspect the IC outlet temps would have been in the 80 F range which is fantastic.
I will certainly bring some ice with me to the track!!
Needless to say, the water was hot to touch. I left the car off in the garage for a while and went back to get the coolant temps again and it had dropped to 110 until I turned the pump on without the car running and it went up to just over 120 F but then dropped down to about 115 F within a minute. The coolant in the IC got heated from the heat transferring from the engine but balanced out with the other fluid.
I let the IC pump run for about fifteen minutes with a small fan in front of the car. This only dropped the temp to just under 100 F. Mind you the garage temp was in the mid 90's.
I then wanted to see how well ice worked in the reservoir. I pumped out some of the fluid from the reservoir and refilled with ice with the flow still going. I probably replaced the entire contents of the reservoir with ice which initially melted quickly and then slowed. When done I checked the coolant temp and it was right around 60 F.
PERFECT!!!
This was over 30 degrees below ambient and would have given a greater than 100% efficiency. I suspect the IC outlet temps would have been in the 80 F range which is fantastic.
I will certainly bring some ice with me to the track!!
#22
I'll be going to the track very soon. Although it has become very hot here I need to get some runs in.
I did take it for a quick ride with ice in there and it was fine. Nothing too dramatic over what I experience in the mornings. But is nice to help circumvent the adverse conditions.
I did take it for a quick ride with ice in there and it was fine. Nothing too dramatic over what I experience in the mornings. But is nice to help circumvent the adverse conditions.
#24
Originally posted by scalbert
I got home this afternoon after another hot day and checked the coolant temps. The OAT was reading 93 F again and the IC coolant was at about 115 F. I used an IR pyrometer on the SC outlet pipe and it was reading 130 F.
Needless to say, the water was hot to touch. I left the car off in the garage for a while and went back to get the coolant temps again and it had dropped to 110 until I turned the pump on without the car running and it went up to just over 120 F but then dropped down to about 115 F within a minute. The coolant in the IC got heated from the heat transferring from the engine but balanced out with the other fluid.
I let the IC pump run for about fifteen minutes with a small fan in front of the car. This only dropped the temp to just under 100 F. Mind you the garage temp was in the mid 90's.
I then wanted to see how well ice worked in the reservoir. I pumped out some of the fluid from the reservoir and refilled with ice with the flow still going. I probably replaced the entire contents of the reservoir with ice which initially melted quickly and then slowed. When done I checked the coolant temp and it was right around 60 F.
PERFECT!!!
This was over 30 degrees below ambient and would have given a greater than 100% efficiency. I suspect the IC outlet temps would have been in the 80 F range which is fantastic.
I will certainly bring some ice with me to the track!!
I got home this afternoon after another hot day and checked the coolant temps. The OAT was reading 93 F again and the IC coolant was at about 115 F. I used an IR pyrometer on the SC outlet pipe and it was reading 130 F.
Needless to say, the water was hot to touch. I left the car off in the garage for a while and went back to get the coolant temps again and it had dropped to 110 until I turned the pump on without the car running and it went up to just over 120 F but then dropped down to about 115 F within a minute. The coolant in the IC got heated from the heat transferring from the engine but balanced out with the other fluid.
I let the IC pump run for about fifteen minutes with a small fan in front of the car. This only dropped the temp to just under 100 F. Mind you the garage temp was in the mid 90's.
I then wanted to see how well ice worked in the reservoir. I pumped out some of the fluid from the reservoir and refilled with ice with the flow still going. I probably replaced the entire contents of the reservoir with ice which initially melted quickly and then slowed. When done I checked the coolant temp and it was right around 60 F.
PERFECT!!!
This was over 30 degrees below ambient and would have given a greater than 100% efficiency. I suspect the IC outlet temps would have been in the 80 F range which is fantastic.
I will certainly bring some ice with me to the track!!
Maybe you can drag along some dry ice too, to cool some strategic locations...
Steve, are you going to dyno soon? Or hit the track first?
IC outlet @ 80-degrees F, that would be sweet!
#25
Originally posted by Chopper
Damn, I am in Atlanta today, but flying out tomorrow, but damn I would have loved to check that bad boy out.
Damn, I am in Atlanta today, but flying out tomorrow, but damn I would have loved to check that bad boy out.
#26
Originally posted by EricL
It love to see the times with your ice chest filled up!
Maybe you can drag along some dry ice too, to cool some strategic locations...
Steve, are you going to dyno soon? Or hit the track first?
IC outlet @ 80-degrees F, that would be sweet!
It love to see the times with your ice chest filled up!
Maybe you can drag along some dry ice too, to cool some strategic locations...
Steve, are you going to dyno soon? Or hit the track first?
IC outlet @ 80-degrees F, that would be sweet!
Problem is that at Atlanta Dragway the staging lanes location and being crowded would not easily allow for it. So I would have cooled everything in the parking lot and then wait for thirty minutes to run. So a trip to Silver Dollar may be in order as it is easier to store stuff, have access to it and get to the line in a minimal amount of time.
I'll probably be on the dyno first and hopefully in the next couple of weeks. I'm putting in an exhaust cut out for testing. I'll make a couple of pulls through the stock exhaust and then uncork it and see what the numbers are. At this point I expect there to be a noticeable difference. I also hope to get heated pulls and the iced down pulls for comparison.
#29
I got the 2.7 inch FPR calibration disk in yesterday. So last night I opened up the regulator, installed it and took it for a spin. As expected, the pressure gain rate was lower, but not as much as I desired.
When I spoke to Shad about this he indicated that the piston in the FPR for the SC kits was also different from their generic FPR. It was smaller which also increased the gain rate. Unfortunately the pistons cannot be swapped as the machined case is also different.
I'm going to give it some time and keep an eye on everything. I do have lower pressures overall. I ended up dropping the static pressure to 55 PSI which now gives me about 90 PSI fuel pressure at about 5 PSI boost. I would like it lower but at least this is a start and allows for a greater comfort level. Also, dropping the static pressure to 55 PSI also brought the fuel trim values right to 0%.
Another benefit is that part throttle A/F ratio is better. With just a few PSI boost I am sitting right around 12.0:1 whereas before I was running under 10.5:1.
IMO, this is going to be part of the IC/Boost kit as I see it as being necessary at this point to aid in the durability of the fuel system.
When I spoke to Shad about this he indicated that the piston in the FPR for the SC kits was also different from their generic FPR. It was smaller which also increased the gain rate. Unfortunately the pistons cannot be swapped as the machined case is also different.
I'm going to give it some time and keep an eye on everything. I do have lower pressures overall. I ended up dropping the static pressure to 55 PSI which now gives me about 90 PSI fuel pressure at about 5 PSI boost. I would like it lower but at least this is a start and allows for a greater comfort level. Also, dropping the static pressure to 55 PSI also brought the fuel trim values right to 0%.
Another benefit is that part throttle A/F ratio is better. With just a few PSI boost I am sitting right around 12.0:1 whereas before I was running under 10.5:1.
IMO, this is going to be part of the IC/Boost kit as I see it as being necessary at this point to aid in the durability of the fuel system.
#30
Oh and BTW, the tires are no longer as willing to break loose. They will still break loose in 2nd if the road is not perfect. But new tires and 80+ F temps helps improve overall traction.
1st is still pointless though. :o
1st is still pointless though. :o
#31
Originally posted by scalbert
Oh and BTW, the tires are no longer as willing to break loose. They will still break loose in 2nd if the road is not perfect. But new tires and 80+ F temps helps improve overall traction.
1st is still pointless though. :o
Oh and BTW, the tires are no longer as willing to break loose. They will still break loose in 2nd if the road is not perfect. But new tires and 80+ F temps helps improve overall traction.
1st is still pointless though. :o
#32
I tried another experiment this morning. I stopped by a Sherwin Williams store last night and picked up a gallon on Toluene. On my way in this morning I stopped at the local BP station, poured in the Toluene and topped off the tank with 93 octane. But I also picked up a bag of ice while there.
Once I got to the office I measured the IC coolant temperature. It was at 95 F with the ambient temps at about 75 F; right where I expected it. I drained off some of the coolant and refilled with ice. I did this a total of three times using 3/4 of a bag of ice (half fell on the ground though). This brought the IC coolant temps down to about 55 F. I then went for a ride.
As expected, power was up from when I had driven the car just twenty minutes earlier. It wasn't mind blowing but noticeable. Basic calculations would put it at about a 6% - 8% gain in power which it probably was on the lower side of that. But nice that just a few minute and some ice can give you that much change. Had I sat there longer I could have probably gotten the coolant temp down to around 40 F and packed ice in there for the drive; all was melted when I left.
When I returned after about a three minute drive I measured the IC coolant temps again and they were just shy of 80 F.
Once I got to the office I measured the IC coolant temperature. It was at 95 F with the ambient temps at about 75 F; right where I expected it. I drained off some of the coolant and refilled with ice. I did this a total of three times using 3/4 of a bag of ice (half fell on the ground though). This brought the IC coolant temps down to about 55 F. I then went for a ride.
As expected, power was up from when I had driven the car just twenty minutes earlier. It wasn't mind blowing but noticeable. Basic calculations would put it at about a 6% - 8% gain in power which it probably was on the lower side of that. But nice that just a few minute and some ice can give you that much change. Had I sat there longer I could have probably gotten the coolant temp down to around 40 F and packed ice in there for the drive; all was melted when I left.
When I returned after about a three minute drive I measured the IC coolant temps again and they were just shy of 80 F.
#33
Originally posted by scalbert
Oh and BTW, the tires are no longer as willing to break loose. They will still break loose in 2nd if the road is not perfect. But new tires and 80+ F temps helps improve overall traction.
1st is still pointless though. :o
Oh and BTW, the tires are no longer as willing to break loose. They will still break loose in 2nd if the road is not perfect. But new tires and 80+ F temps helps improve overall traction.
1st is still pointless though. :o
what tires are you running?????????
#37
Originally posted by types1967
steve you just poured a gallon of toulene in with gas?is it harmful and what did you think it raised the octane to?i cant wait for the dyno session when do you think your going?
steve you just poured a gallon of toulene in with gas?is it harmful and what did you think it raised the octane to?i cant wait for the dyno session when do you think your going?
Assuming a 17.5 gallon tank:
((16.5 * 93) + (1.0 * 114)) / 17.5 = 94.2 Octane
There is another benefit other than the anti-knock properties of Toluene; it also has a higher BTU content than gasoline.
I was wanting to go to the dyno a week from tomorrow. We'll see how that pans out and is dependant on me getting the exhaust changes done prior to the session.
#38
Originally posted by Zapata
went with them again? wow ok hehe.
went with them again? wow ok hehe.
#40
Originally posted by scalbert
Yep, I got a great deal, a little over $500 installed. Plus, at this rate it doesn't make sense to spend too much on tires.
Yep, I got a great deal, a little over $500 installed. Plus, at this rate it doesn't make sense to spend too much on tires.
yea for the money the yokos are nice.