When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thought i would share my 3.5 build for those interested in doing it themselves for cheap.
By no means is this the "proper" way to rebuild as alot more costly steps and trips to a machine shop would be needed. This is just my junkyard build on the cheap.
J35a3 out of a 01 mdx 240$ - 40$ core = 200 J35a3
My original plan was to use the crank and rods from this block in a j32a2 block i got from a parts car i got for cheap but the a2 had some scratches in the cylinder walls and after some more research the j35a3 block is the exact same as the j32a2 contrary to what some people have said in the past. I would have just changed the pistons and kept the bottom end together if i had known that but it was too late k had already taken the crank and rods out... Oh well at least the crank is going back into the block it was made for.
Entire engine gasket set i bought from rock auto along with new bearings and rings for under 300$ cdn. (Enginetech)
+9°c in december took the opportunity to pressure wash the block Little bit of paint
Now the block is sitting until i get the heads done so i can seal it all up and fill with oil once its together.
Heads are just getting cleaned painted new valve stem seals and valves lapped with some compound.
25$ valve spring tool from amazon works great
Some VHT wrinkle finish red for covers 😎 Little bit of porting on the intake side
Thats about as far as ive made it so far planning on getting the other head together today and get movin on the block. I just ordered some Manzo SS headers and an OBX crank pulley so thats got me pushing a bit, cant waite to put it all together and into the car.
Total cost is under 1000 CDN still including headers and crank pulley.
Yeah haha sorry i guess i left alot out.
j32a2 heads and pistons going onto and into this j35a3 block. I would use the dnj high compression pistons that p2r sells (im guessing they are just aftermarket RL pistons) but then ide want to get the cylinders rebored and end up going all out machining stuff and bring the cost way up when i bought the car for 1200$ lol. Also its a 2001 5 auto 🤔. Waiting for a 6speed to come my way for cheap.
^
In addition, you are probably already aware of this; but, you would want to use the connecting pipe (#11) and the water passage (#8) from the J32 as well.
Bit of paint. Winter here beats up everything its a big job just cleaning all the parts and bolts lol. Heads ready time to get moving on the block.
OBX crank pulley came today so thatll make me push a bit lol.
THEN to take the motor out of the car and get this beast in ��.
I checked them with the straightest edge i could find and they were ok as far as cracks i dont know. i pulled them off a good running CLs and they didnt show any signs that they were leaking so well see.
OK so you got me paranoid so i went out and bought a 24" straight edge straight to .001" across the whole 24".
Couldn't get my .001 feeler gauge under it at ANY point so it is definitely within spec. Service manual lists anything over .002 to get resurfaced.
Honed with lisle glaze breaker from rock auto. Comes with 220 stones. After trying a few speeds and techniques i found medium drill speed and up and down as fast as i could gave me the best crosshatch. This is my first time doing this and i think it turned out ok.
I used all kinds of cleaners. Gotta be carefull to make sure its safe on aluminum. WD40 degreaser worked the best for me. For the rest of the parts i used keroseen , mineral spirits , brake fluid and ATF all mixed up. Otherwise i woulda spent a fortune on cleaners.
paint was just engine paint from canadian tire.
Contary to what the OP said, the pistons in the 2 vehicles are not the same. It should be obvious that the 3.5 has a larger piston than the 3.2.
By using the push rod from the Type S in the MDX you will be running the higher compression ratio of 1O.5:1 instead of the 10.0:1. Best of both worlds. Note, I'm assuming that the crank shaft is the same in both vehicles. If not then both the crank and push rod should be use in the MDX block... Again, assuming both vehicles are indeed using the same block as OP suggested.
To the best of my knowledge this have not been tested so proceed at your own risk. However, if the OP compares the 2 vehicle's pistons and push rods then he should know definitively where the higher .5 compression is coming from... push rod, or crank shaft... Again assuming the 2 vehicle's pistons have the same stroke.
Contary to what the OP said, the pistons in the 2 vehicles are not the same. It should be obvious that the 3.5 has a larger piston than the 3.2.
By using the push rod from the Type S in the MDX you will be running the higher compression ratio of 1O.5:1 instead of the 10.0:1. Best of both worlds. Note, I'm assuming that the crank shaft is the same in both vehicles. If not then both the crank and push rod should be use in the MDX block... Again, assuming both vehicles are indeed using the same block as OP suggested.
To the best of my knowledge this have not been tested so proceed at your own risk. However, if the OP compares the 2 vehicle's pistons and push rods then he should know definitively where the higher .5 compression is coming from... push rod, or crank shaft... Again assuming the 2 vehicle's pistons have the same stroke.
Never said the pistons are the same. They do have the same bore though. As far as the rods and crank i dont know how different they are but they are different part #'s.
ill take a pic of them side by side later.
Using the 3.5 crank and rods will already yeild a higher compression ratio than stock j32a2 which is 10.5:1 .
Using cls pistons with j35 bottom end should be 11.3:1
Assuming this guy knows what hes talking about in the link below. J32A2 "CL-S" vs. J35A8 "RL" pistons - 6th Gen Accord DIY and Performance Forums
Sorry you guys are right the bores are the same in both motors. I must of been looking at the piston stroke. My bad.
Again, my apologies to the OP. I thought you said the engine was the same but you didn't. You said the block is the same.
As far as the guy in the link you provided, he appears to me knowleagable but the numbers he is throwing out there are just for demonstration purposes and not real numbers. He's showing how one would figure out compression ratio.
So it appears the rod is the difference in determining the compression ratio so you have two options. Use the MDX or CLS rod/crank. Again assuming the cranks are interchangeable. If you use the CLS combo then I would be very interested in the outcome. Thanks for your R&D.
On a side note, if by so miracle you get the compression ratio to 11.1:1 then you will need a corresponding ECM to go with it.
Bud the cls rod with mdx crank would have the piston coming out of the block......... If i used cls rod and crank it would be a j32a2 same i started with
If that's the case then yeah, that would be major fail then... Crap! Sorry dude, it's hard to tell how much longer the S rod is in the picture. Back to your original plan then.
One more thing. Running the MDX bottom end with the S ECM. Do you think there would be an issue with the higher RPM of the Type S vs the MDX at full RPM? You should be safe if you stay within the MDX range. Something else for you to consider in terms of long term reliability.
Rotating assembly installed.
I had gotten a really cheap ring compressor but it did not work well so i went and got another. Still cheap but way better to use.
Bad on left good on right. The ratchet style is much better . Top bad one bottom one good. See how out of round the top one is .
Also dont use a hammer just your weight and jiggle them in or youll break rings. Watch out for the oil ones they can jam in between the cylinder and piston.
One more thing. Running the MDX bottom end with the S ECM. Do you think there would be an issue with the higher RPM of the Type S vs the MDX at full RPM? You should be safe if you stay within the MDX range. Something else for you to consider in terms of long term reliability.
Over the years, I don't think I have seen any member who has done a J35A3 swap mention any issues running the CLS/TLS ECM.
teh CL; straight J35A3 swap into CLS6 hitek9; J35A3 with J32 heads/cams with simultaneous six speed swap into CLS Adam Kovach; J35A3 with J32 heads/cams into CLS6 03 tls nc; J35A3 with J32 cams into TLS 2ndgentl; J35A3 with J32 cams into CLS6 Karanx7; IIRC'ly went with a J35A3 swap into his '02 TL-P after finishing his J32 six speed swap; however, at that point I think he used his wizardry to implement/tune with an AEM EMS. Not sure if he had any time on the CLS6 ECM with the J35.
I know of one recent member specifically, 2ndgentl, who runs the sh*t out of his J35A3 CLS6 swap and has not reported back any problems regarding the use of the '...S ECM.'
02-04-2018, 08:24 AM
