Transmission Fluid Change
Transmission Fluid Change
Hello everyone,
I searched the forums and did not see any detailed information on how to drain and fill instruction on the forums. I recently change the oil and I had a hard time locating the transmission drain bolt.
If someone is kind enough and let me know where the bolt is located, it would be much appreciated. Furthermore, I saw a youtube video of a 3g tl transmission fluid change and this person unbolted a fill bolt of the car as well. Do we need to do that as well on our cars?
Thanks.
I searched the forums and did not see any detailed information on how to drain and fill instruction on the forums. I recently change the oil and I had a hard time locating the transmission drain bolt.
If someone is kind enough and let me know where the bolt is located, it would be much appreciated. Furthermore, I saw a youtube video of a 3g tl transmission fluid change and this person unbolted a fill bolt of the car as well. Do we need to do that as well on our cars?
Thanks.
From Chilton Manual:
Drain & Refill
Drain & Refill
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on), and turn the engine off.
- Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block both rear wheels, and raise the front of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported.
- Remove the ATF filler bolt and drain plug, and drain the Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF).
- Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer.
- Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid through the filler hole. Always use Acura ATF-Z1 Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). Using a non-Acura ATF can affect shift quality.
- Install the ATF filler bolt and a new sealing washer.
- Check the ATF level.
- If the maintenance minder recommends replacing the ATF, reset the maintenance minder, and this procedure is complete. If the maintenance minder did not recommends require you to replace the ATF, go to step 9.
- Connect the HDS to the DLC located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
- Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting.
- Select BODY ELECTRICAL with the HDS.
- Select ADJUSTMENT in the GAUGE MENU with the HDS.
- Select RESET in the MAINTENANCE MINDER with the HDS.
- Select MAINTENANCE SUB ITEM 3 RESET, and reset the ATF life with the HDS.
From Chilton Manual:
Drain & Refill
Drain & Refill
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on), and turn the engine off.
- Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block both rear wheels, and raise the front of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported.
- Remove the ATF filler bolt and drain plug, and drain the Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF).
- Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer.
- Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid through the filler hole. Always use Acura ATF-Z1 Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). Using a non-Acura ATF can affect shift quality.
- Install the ATF filler bolt and a new sealing washer.
- Check the ATF level.
- If the maintenance minder recommends replacing the ATF, reset the maintenance minder, and this procedure is complete. If the maintenance minder did not recommends require you to replace the ATF, go to step 9.
- Connect the HDS to the DLC located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
- Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting.
- Select BODY ELECTRICAL with the HDS.
- Select ADJUSTMENT in the GAUGE MENU with the HDS.
- Select RESET in the MAINTENANCE MINDER with the HDS.
- Select MAINTENANCE SUB ITEM 3 RESET, and reset the ATF life with the HDS.
Thanks bro... I found the drain plug under the car the other day. It has a special looking bolt on it. I can just fit a 3/8 wrench into it. I love the fact that the transmission bolt is easily assessable. Thanks!
When you see the number 3 pop up in you maintenance minder, among other numbers and letters. Filler hole is on top of the transmission, you can't miss it, its the biggest of all in that area, next to the two coolant tubes and that big black plastic electrical wire cover.
Last edited by Tonyware; Sep 24, 2013 at 06:49 PM.
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From Chilton Manual:
Drain & Refill
Drain & Refill
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on), and turn the engine off.
- Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block both rear wheels, and raise the front of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported.
- Remove the ATF filler bolt and drain plug, and drain the Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF).
- Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer.
- Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid through the filler hole. Always use Acura ATF-Z1 Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). Using a non-Acura ATF can affect shift quality.
- Install the ATF filler bolt and a new sealing washer.
- Check the ATF level.
- If the maintenance minder recommends replacing the ATF, reset the maintenance minder, and this procedure is complete. If the maintenance minder did not recommends require you to replace the ATF, go to step 9.
- Connect the HDS to the DLC located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
- Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting.
- Select BODY ELECTRICAL with the HDS.
- Select ADJUSTMENT in the GAUGE MENU with the HDS.
- Select RESET in the MAINTENANCE MINDER with the HDS.
- Select MAINTENANCE SUB ITEM 3 RESET, and reset the ATF life with the HDS.
Can transmission be refilled through a dipstick tube?
I guess it can....it would take a little bit longer than through filler bolt...
Correct me if I am wrong...
Thanks.
I guess it can....it would take a little bit longer than through filler bolt...
Correct me if I am wrong...
Thanks.
Last edited by arek1200; Oct 9, 2013 at 09:22 PM.
I filled my one time when I couldn't find my 1/2" extensions to remove the filler bolt. Horked my wife's small funnel from the kitchen, she never missed it. It worked but took more time than I had patience for.
I went to the dealership and spoke with one of their mechanics. He said that they do the following as a standard procedure at 35k miles:
1. Check ATF and if its color is way off (darker and less transparent than new) they would do 3x3. Otherwise, they just do a 1x1.
2. Replace transfer case gear oil and differential fluid.
I plan to be more conservative. I'll be doing a 1x1 on every second engine oil change (i.e. every 10k or so).
From Chilton Manual:
Drain & Refill
Drain & Refill
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on), and turn the engine off.
- Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block both rear wheels, and raise the front of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported.
- Remove the ATF filler bolt and drain plug, and drain the Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF).
- Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer.
- Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid through the filler hole. Always use Acura ATF-Z1 Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). Using a non-Acura ATF can affect shift quality.
- Install the ATF filler bolt and a new sealing washer.
- Check the ATF level.
- If the maintenance minder recommends replacing the ATF, reset the maintenance minder, and this procedure is complete. If the maintenance minder did not recommends require you to replace the ATF, go to step 9.
- Connect the HDS to the DLC located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
- Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting.
- Select BODY ELECTRICAL with the HDS.
- Select ADJUSTMENT in the GAUGE MENU with the HDS.
- Select RESET in the MAINTENANCE MINDER with the HDS.
- Select MAINTENANCE SUB ITEM 3 RESET, and reset the ATF life with the HDS.
This is not the complete procedure...I recommend you download the Acura Service Manual (you can find it in this forum) and follow their procedure.
It is very important that you take a hot reading. That means you idle the car until the coolant fan comes on. Then you turn it off and WITHIN 60 to 90 seconds you check the ATF dipstick level. It should be between the two lines.
Also, Honda has discontinued the Z1 fluid because it was crap. They now only sell the DW-1 fluid which is a synthetic blend and is much better.
Last edited by acupower; Aug 31, 2014 at 08:08 PM.
You could always collect the drained fluid and measure how much it is and then refill the same amount. But even then, you should still follow the recommended procedure and do a hot reading.
It depends on how much fluid you've drained. If the car was on level ground, you could drain around 3 quarts so it would take roughly 3 quarts to bring the fluid between the lines.
You could always collect the drained fluid and measure how much it is and then refill the same amount. But even then, you should still follow the recommended procedure and do a hot reading.
You could always collect the drained fluid and measure how much it is and then refill the same amount. But even then, you should still follow the recommended procedure and do a hot reading.
Yes, the hot reading is mandatory....
just wondering why is there a specific time frame given (60-90 seconds)after the engine is shut off ?
What happens after that period...?Is the fluid level changing due to temperature /volume change and making the reading inaccurate??
There is ATF in the transaxle and its reservoir (in the case itself) and in the torque converter.
You want to measure (read) what is in the transaxle, available to the trans oil pump under operating conditions. If you wait a while (too long) after you shut off the engine, the oil (ATF) from the TC will start to drain back into the trans and you will get an OK reading when there is actually too little oil, or you will get an apparently high reading when the amount is actually correct. Most cars used to call for checking the ATF level with the engine running for this reason.
You want to measure (read) what is in the transaxle, available to the trans oil pump under operating conditions. If you wait a while (too long) after you shut off the engine, the oil (ATF) from the TC will start to drain back into the trans and you will get an OK reading when there is actually too little oil, or you will get an apparently high reading when the amount is actually correct. Most cars used to call for checking the ATF level with the engine running for this reason.
There is ATF in the transaxle and its reservoir (in the case itself) and in the torque converter.
You want to measure (read) what is in the transaxle, available to the trans oil pump under operating conditions. If you wait a while (too long) after you shut off the engine, the oil (ATF) from the TC will start to drain back into the trans and you will get an OK reading when there is actually too little oil, or you will get an apparently high reading when the amount is actually correct. Most cars used to call for checking the ATF level with the engine running for this reason.
You want to measure (read) what is in the transaxle, available to the trans oil pump under operating conditions. If you wait a while (too long) after you shut off the engine, the oil (ATF) from the TC will start to drain back into the trans and you will get an OK reading when there is actually too little oil, or you will get an apparently high reading when the amount is actually correct. Most cars used to call for checking the ATF level with the engine running for this reason.
Makes sense....Thanks.
A lot of people check their ATF level when their car is cold (usually in the morning) and are surprised to find out that the level is way above the upper line. As Jim_c explained, this is caused from the tc draining and is absolutely normal.
Also, don't stress out if your level is just slighly above the upper mark when you do your hot reading. This won't any issues so don't go crazy trying to get it perfect.
Also, don't stress out if your level is just slighly above the upper mark when you do your hot reading. This won't any issues so don't go crazy trying to get it perfect.
This weekend I drained the tranny oil in my 2013 TL FWD and 2012 Accord SE and used the dipstick tube to refill. Both were very easy to do and didn't take much time at all. I'll continue to use this method every 15K miles. Thanks for all the info guys!
Just did my 2010 sh-awd, had the front end on Jack stands....drained out 3.5 qts and put back in a little more then 3.5 qts and it still reads at the bottom "hot" mark....service manual says 3qts...
I feel like it needs a little more to bring it between the marks
I feel like it needs a little more to bring it between the marks
When I did the fluid change I also used about 3.5 quarts of Acura DW1 to get it to the proper level. Make sure the fluid is warm when you are checking it and the car is on a level surface!
The Filler bolt on my 2013 was SIEZED!!! Instead I used the dip stick hole to fill via a funnel. Unlike the 2004 TL and 2007 MDX, the dipstick hole is the size of a quarter and any funnel can fit into it easily!
The Filler bolt on my 2013 was SIEZED!!! Instead I used the dip stick hole to fill via a funnel. Unlike the 2004 TL and 2007 MDX, the dipstick hole is the size of a quarter and any funnel can fit into it easily!
Thanks csmeance....the car was pleanty warm sitting on level ground...checked it this morning while it was cold and reading exactly in the middle of the two marks, which is where I want it to read when warm....
Is it possible since I had the front end on Jack stands and the rear on the ground that I drained more out then the book calls for? The service manual says 3qts for a drain and fill on sh-awd ...I know for sure I drained over 3.5qts
Is it possible since I had the front end on Jack stands and the rear on the ground that I drained more out then the book calls for? The service manual says 3qts for a drain and fill on sh-awd ...I know for sure I drained over 3.5qts
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