Tranny Problems D indacator flashing??

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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 03:37 PM
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Exclamation Tranny Problems D indacator flashing??

Hey all,Im having problems with my 2004 Tl tranny,The car has just rolled over 194 fairly trouble free miles.But I was driving the other day and the D indacator started flashing,I was running the car a little hard,But It never done this before I drove around 10 miles with it flashing car acted normal. I pulled over shut of and restarted it the light went out so I started to drive up the on ramp for highway and it got stuck in second gear as I was gasing it to merge onto hwy, Had to slow down to a slow roll and it went into 3rd gear,I drove easy for the rest of the trip but the indacator started flashing again??? Today I had same problem light stayed off when I drove easy but when running the car hard light starts flashing and starts shifting funny. HELP

It acts like all the gears are there it just don't want to shift sometimes,mainly when driving hard,but also having 2-5 sec.delay's from park to drive or reverse???
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 04:22 PM
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Hmm not sure, but I can check my service manual when i get back and let you know
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 05:02 PM
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The blinking D light indicates a problem code has been thrown in the power control module (non emissions related transmission problem) and not the ECU. You could scan your ECU at the parts store but you will probably not get any codes if the Check engine light isn't on. You will have to have the dealer pull the real codes out of the Power Control Module (PCM) to find out the exact problem because an OBD2 scanner doesn't talk to the PCM (costs $100). If you look up the blinking D light on the internet, you'll find most cases the dealer does nothing and recommends a replacing the trans. Honda's replacement trans has a 3yr warranty. You can get it replaced for less with a better warranty from another place.

If you want to try the $100 "DIY & pray" first, you could replace the 3rd & 4th gear pressure switches, and replace the trans fluid.

BTW: Did you check the trans fluid level?

Last edited by 94eg!; Feb 22, 2012 at 05:06 PM.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 07:10 AM
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thanx for the feedback, Yes i checked the tranny fluid and i looked all around tranny checking for loose wire or plugs i looked for anything out of the ordinary,I even put it up on a buddys lift and couldnt find nothing, I'm still driveing it today and it is running driving close to normal just a bit slugish..
Any chance you would know where 3rd & 4th gear pressure switches are located?
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 07:46 AM
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They are #12 & #13 at the bottom center of the picture below. The link has part numbers and prices ($35 each). You will also need 2 of the #17 crush-washers and maybe a few fender liner cilps (cause they like to break). I just replaced my pressure switches last night on my wife's 04 Pilot. Right now I'm praying that Jesus keeps my D light from blinking again.

Here are a couple links to DIY's. I don't know that I would trust the part numbers because I don't get the same ones if I look up 2004 TL. Perhaps search for part numbers via your specific vin.

- https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/110-diy-guide-replacing-3rd-4th-gear-pressure-switch-3g-tl-2004-2006-a-729149/

- http://www.piloteers.org/forums/18-m...-switches.html

Here are the parts for a 2004:

- http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/P...gPicture=False


Last edited by 94eg!; Feb 23, 2012 at 07:51 AM.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 07:47 AM
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[URL="https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=729149[/URL]
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 12:50 PM
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it might be ur sensors i took mines to the dealer and those codes pop up for the and i just replaced them on my own (with no knowledge on mechanic) with te diy giude its real easy
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 04:38 PM
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I have no idea what this guy is typing, but I do have some more helpful info that may tell us what's wrong with your trans...


I found out how to pull the Transmission codes without actually going to Honda. Take a paper clip and unbend it so you have two prongs pointing in the same direction. Now jam them into the #4 and #9 pins of your OBD2 service port like the picture below (My Pilot has the plug upside down so pay attention). Grab your pen & paper and sit down in the drivers seat. Now stick the key in and switch the ignition to the On position. Your D light and check engine light will begin flashing. Pay attention to the D light for now.



Record the number of long blinks followed by the short blinks for your D light. Then do the same for your Check Engine light. In my case I had code 27 on the D light. That was 2 long blinks followed by 7 short blinks. Then I had code 70 on the check engine light. That is 7 long blinks and no short blinks.

When I go to the shop manual, Code 70 means "problem with the automatic transmission". This is a generic code and will show up on an OBD2 scanner as P0700 which anyone will tell you "go to the dealer". This only means there was A problem with the transmission. This is where we refer to the code 27 (the real info). This won't show up on a scan tool. Code 27 means one of two things in the shop manual:

- 4th clutch fluid pressure switch (short or stuck ON)
- 4th clutch fluid pressure switch (open or stuck OFF)

Since I replaced both my pressure switches yesterday, I should be good to go.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 06:27 PM
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Here is a list of the A/T trouble codes you can get on your dashboard via the flashing D light. This reference is from a 2004 Acura TL shop manual. Also notice they are in an odd group order (not numerical). According to the manual the codes I've put in bold "are caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission". This means the ones not in bold are BAD NEWS!:

5 - Transmission range switch (multiple shift-position input)
6 - Transmission range switch (open)
28 - ATF temperature sensor (range/performance, short, or open)
15 - Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (range/performance, intermittent failure)
9 - Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (range/performance, no signal input, intermittent failure)

64 - 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th or 5th gear incorrect ratio
40 - Torque converter clutch circuit performance or stuck off
76 - AT clutch pressure control solenoid valve stuck (ON, OFF)
70 - Shift solenoid valve A stuck (ON, OFF)
71 - Shift solenoid valve B stuck (ON, OFF)
72 - Shift solenoid valve C stuck (ON, OFF)
77 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B stuck (ON, OFF)
45 - Shift control system

24 - Transmission gear selection switch upshift or downshift switch (short or stuck ON)
26 - 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (short/ON, open/OFF)
27 - 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (short/ON, open/OFF)
24 - Transmission gear selection switch (short/ON, open/OFF)
16 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A
23 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B
29 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C
7 - Shift solenoid valve A (short, open)
8 - Shift solenoid valve B (short, open)
22 - Shift solenoid valve C (short, open)
1 - Torque converter clutch solenoid valve (short, open)
Old Feb 27, 2012 | 09:09 AM
  #10  
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Thanks for all your help im going to try to replace these 2 pressure switches and do a 3x3 flush,before i do that im gonna pull the codes, ill keep you updated on what i come up with.
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 09:55 AM
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OK I just ran outside on my break and took paperclip with me and paper I got code 27 two long and 7 short, so yea thank you guys soo much im going to do the swithes a.s.a.p and 3x3 flush ill keep posted what happens right after and long term.
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 10:18 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by 94eg!
I have no idea what this guy is typing, but I do have some more helpful info that may tell us what's wrong with your trans...


I found out how to pull the Transmission codes without actually going to Honda. Take a paper clip and unbend it so you have two prongs pointing in the same direction. Now jam them into the #4 and #9 pins of your OBD2 service port like the picture below (My Pilot has the plug upside down so pay attention). Grab your pen & paper and sit down in the drivers seat. Now stick the key in and switch the ignition to the On position. Your D light and check engine light will begin flashing. Pay attention to the D light for now.



Record the number of long blinks followed by the short blinks for your D light. Then do the same for your Check Engine light. In my case I had code 27 on the D light. That was 2 long blinks followed by 7 short blinks. Then I had code 70 on the check engine light. That is 7 long blinks and no short blinks.

When I go to the shop manual, Code 70 means "problem with the automatic transmission". This is a generic code and will show up on an OBD2 scanner as P0700 which anyone will tell you "go to the dealer". This only means there was A problem with the transmission. This is where we refer to the code 27 (the real info). This won't show up on a scan tool. Code 27 means one of two things in the shop manual:

- 4th clutch fluid pressure switch (short or stuck ON)
- 4th clutch fluid pressure switch (open or stuck OFF)

Since I replaced both my pressure switches yesterday, I should be good to go.
Originally Posted by 94eg!
Here is a list of the A/T trouble codes you can get on your dashboard via the flashing D light. This reference is from a 2004 Acura TL shop manual. Also notice they are in an odd group order (not numerical). According to the manual the codes I've put in bold "are caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission". This means the ones not in bold are BAD NEWS!:

5 - Transmission range switch (multiple shift-position input)
6 - Transmission range switch (open)
28 - ATF temperature sensor (range/performance, short, or open)
15 - Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (range/performance, intermittent failure)
9 - Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (range/performance, no signal input, intermittent failure)

64 - 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th or 5th gear incorrect ratio
40 - Torque converter clutch circuit performance or stuck off
76 - AT clutch pressure control solenoid valve stuck (ON, OFF)
70 - Shift solenoid valve A stuck (ON, OFF)
71 - Shift solenoid valve B stuck (ON, OFF)
72 - Shift solenoid valve C stuck (ON, OFF)
77 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B stuck (ON, OFF)
45 - Shift control system

24 - Transmission gear selection switch upshift or downshift switch (short or stuck ON)
26 - 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (short/ON, open/OFF)
27 - 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (short/ON, open/OFF)
24 - Transmission gear selection switch (short/ON, open/OFF)
16 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A
23 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B
29 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C
7 - Shift solenoid valve A (short, open)
8 - Shift solenoid valve B (short, open)
22 - Shift solenoid valve C (short, open)
1 - Torque converter clutch solenoid valve (short, open)
Probably one of the most helpful posts I have read in the last 6-12 months.
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 09:08 PM
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I did the above and got d4 blinking at 4 long and 1 short which would be 41 but I dont see that code above. Can someone help. Thanks.
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by atlclgirl
I did the above and got d4 blinking at 4 long and 1 short which would be 41 but I dont see that code above. Can someone help. Thanks.
What year TL are you working on? The stuff above is quoted directly from the 2004 TL shop manual. Perhaps Honda has added more codes in later years. Are you sure you aren't getting 4 long and 1 long? This would be code 40 and code 1. Both of which are related to the torque converter clutch.
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Old Jan 27, 2014 | 11:03 PM
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Did you ever figure out the tranny issue my 2007 Acura Tl Type S AT is doing the same exact thing.
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 10:15 AM
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had the same issue on my 06 TL turned out to be the #3 #4 transmission switch solenoid.
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Old May 13, 2014 | 09:49 PM
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I just tried it today on my 06TL, turned the key to the 2nd position. All the light came on solid, but the D light and engine light were not flashing. I just wanted to make sure that I did this correctly; so I only turn the key to the 2nd position and NOT starting the car right?
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Old May 14, 2014 | 10:54 PM
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94eg!'s Avatar
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correct. You don't actually start the car. You just switch to "on", right before the starter kicks.
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Old May 14, 2014 | 11:07 PM
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my 4th gear pressure switch failed and never set a code. The only indication of a problem was a pulsating while driving and a slam into 4th when cruising for long distances and then asking for the lower gear. Replaced the switch and voila probem is gone and transmission shifts normally in all gears now.
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Old Oct 13, 2014 | 07:38 AM
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Having transmission problems and the code I'm getting is 49?...9 fast blinks and 4 slow...2004 acura tl automatic



Can anyone help
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Old Jul 28, 2015 | 08:57 PM
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I just did mine and for the "D" light I got 1-long, 0-short blinks, on the CEL I got 0-long & 5-short blinks. What codes are those ? HELP !!!!!!
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 04:39 PM
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From: Cleveland,OH
Originally Posted by 94eg!
Here is a list of the A/T trouble codes you can get on your dashboard via the flashing D light. This reference is from a 2004 Acura TL shop manual. Also notice they are in an odd group order (not numerical). According to the manual the codes I've put in bold "are caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission". This means the ones not in bold are BAD NEWS!:

5 - Transmission range switch (multiple shift-position input)
6 - Transmission range switch (open)
28 - ATF temperature sensor (range/performance, short, or open)
15 - Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (range/performance, intermittent failure)
9 - Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (range/performance, no signal input, intermittent failure)

64 - 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th or 5th gear incorrect ratio
40 - Torque converter clutch circuit performance or stuck off
76 - AT clutch pressure control solenoid valve stuck (ON, OFF)
70 - Shift solenoid valve A stuck (ON, OFF)
71 - Shift solenoid valve B stuck (ON, OFF)
72 - Shift solenoid valve C stuck (ON, OFF)
77 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B stuck (ON, OFF)
45 - Shift control system

24 - Transmission gear selection switch upshift or downshift switch (short or stuck ON)
26 - 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (short/ON, open/OFF)
27 - 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (short/ON, open/OFF)
24 - Transmission gear selection switch (short/ON, open/OFF)
16 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A
23 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B
29 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C
7 - Shift solenoid valve A (short, open)
8 - Shift solenoid valve B (short, open)
22 - Shift solenoid valve C (short, open)
1 - Torque converter clutch solenoid valve (short, open)
can you help me with code 23 & 7 please? I can't find the locations on where there at.
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Old Nov 1, 2020 | 11:26 PM
  #23  
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I got code 25 and 7 but I don’t see 25. Is there any chance you guys would know what 25 means?
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Old Nov 1, 2020 | 11:34 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Angel Morales
can you help me with code 23 & 7 please? I can't find the locations on where there at.
23- A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B
7- Shift solenoid valve A
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Old Apr 23, 2021 | 07:01 PM
  #25  
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Help

Originally Posted by 94eg!
Here is a list of the A/T trouble codes you can get on your dashboard via the flashing D light. This reference is from a 2004 Acura TL shop manual. Also notice they are in an odd group order (not numerical). According to the manual the codes I've put in bold "are caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission". This means the ones not in bold are BAD NEWS!:

5 - Transmission range switch (multiple shift-position input)
6 - Transmission range switch (open)
28 - ATF temperature sensor (range/performance, short, or open)
15 - Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (range/performance, intermittent failure)
9 - Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (range/performance, no signal input, intermittent failure)

64 - 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th or 5th gear incorrect ratio
40 - Torque converter clutch circuit performance or stuck off
76 - AT clutch pressure control solenoid valve stuck (ON, OFF)
70 - Shift solenoid valve A stuck (ON, OFF)
71 - Shift solenoid valve B stuck (ON, OFF)
72 - Shift solenoid valve C stuck (ON, OFF)
77 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B stuck (ON, OFF)
45 - Shift control system

24 - Transmission gear selection switch upshift or downshift switch (short or stuck ON)
26 - 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (short/ON, open/OFF)
27 - 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (short/ON, open/OFF)
24 - Transmission gear selection switch (short/ON, open/OFF)
16 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A
23 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B
29 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C
7 - Shift solenoid valve A (short, open)
8 - Shift solenoid valve B (short, open)
22 - Shift solenoid valve C (short, open)
1 - Torque converter clutch solenoid valve (short, open)
I did this and now my car won’t crank over. I have a 2007 Acura TL type s. The TPMS also went bad.
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