JustinZ

Hey Guys

Finished Up my 105k service and ever since there has been this really bad squeak when accelerating / braking at low speeds from the front passenger wheel side

This is me rocking the car back and forth:

I thoguht it may be the engine mounts, so I replaced the side and front mounts (both of which were destroyed).. Took it for a drive -- Sound still just as loud

So I went around trying to isolate it by spraying white lithium grease on rubber components

and I think Ive isolated it to the front passenger LCA

So while I'm getting ready to spray some grease on it to make sure it was the source, I notice that the arm is really close to making metal contact with the mount:
PASSENGER SIDE:



So I look at the driver side and .. its no where near as low:
DRIVER SIDE:



Sooo I'm guessing its failed...

I think this may have been my fault as well, I used the LCA to lock a breaker bar in place to remove my Crankshaft Pulley when replacing the Timing Belt which may have knocked it loose somehow.
That could be why this wasn't an issue before I did my 105k service.


So question now is, how hard is this to repair?
I've seen the big LCA repair thread but there doesn't seem to be a definitive DIY.

Should I just take it to a shop?

acrdr

Look from under the control arm
Bottom part of the pocket to make sure that the arm is not rubbing through the aluminum
Replace that compliance bushing asap
Before it starts to destroy the subframe

JustinZ

So I tried to get a better look at it, but you cant really see anything without removing the LCA, but I think it is making contact with the frame.

From what I CAN see, if there is damage, it doesnt seem too bad, so hopefully I caught it in time.

I'm going to drop by the dealer and pick up the 2 sets of 3 bushings for each LCA and call around to see how much it'll be to get replaced, if its not too bad I'll jsut pay to have it fixed rather than do it myself (the parts for the homemade tool are not readily available in Canada)

nfnsquared

That definitely doesn't look right, but I find it hard to believe that using the LCA as a pry surface caused it. Are you sure the car hasn't ever hit a curb or nasty pothole on that side? Compare your pic with one where the bushing has just been replaced:

Yours:



New bushing installed:



^^^^ from this link: https://acurazine.com/forums/problem.../#post14345859

A simple bushing replacement may be all that is needed. And to answer your question in the compliance bushing thread: the other 2 bushings will need to be pressed out somehow, but I think you'll find them in decent shape.

JustinZ

Was quoted $600 for the bushings to be replaced (a long with end links which they insisted needed to be replaced as well?)

So I think I'll try and do it myself, picked up new bushings today from the dealer ($~70) and waiting on Amazon for those 2 large sockets to make the DIY tool

FYI for Canadians you can get grade 5 bolts from HD Supply/Brofasco
(cost me ~$17 for the 1/2" x 9" & 1/2" x 8" bolts/washers/nuts)

nfnsquared

End links? Why?

And I really think the other two bushings in each LCA will be fine. You can use the tool to press those out as well, but you'll need different diameter sockets and probably a shorter bolt. I'd just worry about the compliance bushings.

JustinZ

Yeah, the guy said they tend to break when removing LCAs? I dont know

Cool, yeah I think I'll just do the compliance bushing

EddieOnAZ

Yo, what's the deal with the shop you went to? 600$ for a couple bushings and end links which you already have??? Is the guy trying to tell you this is a 6 hours job or something? I had these changed along with tie rod ends and the right upper control arm and it took something like 3 hours. Cost me a lot less than that and I didn't buy the parts myself. I'd ask around if I were you.

BAGII

Replacing the end links is a legitimate concern. after 10 years or so in the weather and elements, they're so rusty that 80% of the time they have to be cut off because the lock nuts are beyond repair. and being that they have to removed anyways to get the control arm out, its not a bad idea to just replace them and save some money on shared labor.

gleetrevino

I had a noise coming from the front drivers side that sounded like a brake issue, stuck or sticky caliper but it was the upper control arm. You could feel in it in the pedal and steering wheel. Had it fixed last weekend and noise is gone, replacing the passenger side in a few weeks. While you are there you should replace the endlinks too. I doubt it's the lower control arm, those bushing are all cracked but that does not mean they have failed. If that bushing failed you would know instantly.

gleetrevino

That noise sounds like endlinks, should be able to hear those everytime you go over a bump. I could only hear the upper control arm when I came to a stop and accelerated. My car has the same miles and live in Chicago with brutal streets in the winter.

Due_Diligence

Get a quote from another shop $600 is a bit much.

acrdr

I replace LCA bushings ( compliance bushings for $300 parts and labor without removing sway bar end links

JustinZ

Just to update
Ok I couldn't get the bolt out myself

Paid a shop $260 (just labor -- I has the bushings) to do it and all is well