Nope...
my little secret...
I'm talking about the kit for the ball joint...not for removing the bushing...
Just clarifying.

 

 

wow, well that idea's out the window..

im glad i never put them in then, what a waste...

not gonna risk causing an accident for someone else, so i won't sell them either

 

^^^Good man, cheers to an honest person.

J.

 

Yeah, what you a showing there is a set of Pittman pullers which is exactly what I bought from Harbor freight. What doesnt work on Acura's are pickle forks! ;P

Pittman pullers are amazing btw

 

Well I'm old enough to learn some of my lessons from others...thanks for the heads up. Was the HF one this same type of set, meaning multiple pullers?

 

Have you noticed any differences yet using windo-weld?

 

Yeah, it was a set of 3. I bought that particular set because I didn't know which size I needed.

 

Ok, got them changed out today...initial impression, steering is definitely tighter and back to the way I remember her...some challenges I ran into...I'll post up tomorrow. Including some pics...

 

Good to hear. I finished my install today as well

 

Glad to hear you got yours resolved too!

Ok...went to my buddy's shop, GOD I wish I had a lift at home.

Old one DEFINITELY busted...

Used a little ingenuity, a cutting wheel and random diameter pipes/tank caps etc and a vice. Worked for 1 side, but we ended up breaking the vice. Took side 2 to a local machine shop, $10 and all done. Had I known that, I would just taken off both arms, driven to machine shop, gone back to his shop and had 2 beers and been done with this in 2 hours.



Ok...so now my 2 questions,

1- I used the puller tool to pop lower balljoint out...but of course NOT before using the wrong 4 in the kit. I popped the lower part of the boot up and let me tell you, there is NO way of pulling it back down after. Ended up shredding it. SOOOO...I cannot find this part alone, I JUST need the lower balljoint boot so if you can direct me as to where to buy it, or you have one for sale. Let me know please.

2- upon doing this install, I noticed my outer bushing is ripped too...don't think the inner back one (the rear of the compliance one) is shot, but you can see where the strut fork bolts thru, it's clearly cracked. What are the implications of this type of tear. It's not compliance and not a side to side...the suspension just kinda sits there, so does anyone know what symptoms you would experience with this ripped? Both sides are ripped the same. If it's not a big deal I won't bother changing it.

Thank you!

PS, anyone in South Florida that needs anything welded up/metal work done, or paint work done look up misfitmetal.com , good prices and good friend of mine. Off the gratigny and 32nd.

J.

His next project
99 Honda Shadow...

 

1- I used the puller tool to pop lower balljoint out...but of course NOT before using the wrong 4 in the kit. I popped the lower part of the boot up and let me tell you, there is NO way of pulling it back down after. Ended up shredding it. SOOOO...I cannot find this part alone, I JUST need the lower balljoint boot so if you can direct me as to where to buy it, or you have one for sale. Let me know please.

The part number for the lower boot is 51225-SL5-003 and you'll need new grease to pack the balljoint with. There is a complete procedure in the service manual. parkacuraoemparts(dot)com. $11.63 My local dealer with the best prices on the net

2- upon doing this install, I noticed my outer bushing is ripped too...don't think the inner back one (the rear of the compliance one) is shot, but you can see where the strut fork bolts thru, it's clearly cracked. What are the implications of this type of tear. It's not compliance and not a side to side...the suspension just kinda sits there, so does anyone know what symptoms you would experience with this ripped? Both sides are ripped the same. If it's not a big deal I won't bother changing it.

In my case, they are only superficial surface cracks. I'd say you're fine to leave as-is.

Good job on the lift man, lucky!!!!

 

Gerzand, like when I was looking for guidance on the accord fog mod...

YOU ALWAYS COME THRU. Thanks, man...much appreciated. Will do...will leave these bushings...I'm sure they don't serve any purpose other than a resting place and I'm certain it's just a surface crack. Thanks for reiterating that in my head!

 

No problem man, I pride myself in being able to come thru for people. Thats what im all about.

Question for ya.... What did you clean the compliance bushings with before filling them with window weld? I see they have some powder like residue from the moulding process.

Also, where did you pick up your tube of window weld at?

Thx

 

I feel the same way brother...

I just jammed it in there on Tuesday, I didn't take off little rubber leftovers from the molding process, kinda used it as a divider. If there is a powder I would probably use alcohol...I did it all in one shot too and it was hard as a rock by Wednesday.
Bought the stuff at advance auto...although South Florida inflation will get ya...it's $19 for it...

J.

 

Again, you are the man...$12 at local acura, will get one on Tuesday. Where are instructions for install? I'm guessing slide up from bottom

 

Here is a snapshot from the service manual. After closer reading, it appears you may need to get your hands on the specialized tool they list the part # for (07GAG-SD40700). The thing is, I cant seem to find it online. Perhaps its a dealer-only part. If you really need it, I bet the people at my dealer would order it for you....but I'm sure you can improvise.

 

Thanks very much, man...I'm hoping to be able to improvise...

Once you slip the bottom of the boot off the bottom (upward), it is so tight there is absolutely no way to get it back

 

Hey, was wondering, IHC or anyone else...since this compliance bushing is such a failure point on this car...are we adding more stress to it by putting the Progress rear sway?

I thought of this because I thought it was probably a little torn earlier on...but a few months ago I switched the sway bar from street to track...had it like that and one day when it was in the 40's...I was going around a curve and I could swear I actually felt it fail and rip more from that point on when going around curves the front of the car would kinda dance. It was scary. My solution was to drop back to street setting and it got better...but was still there till now that I changed out the compliance bushing.

Just a thought...if it does cause worse damage, figured I'd leave mine set on street from now on and warn people about it!

Thank you!

 

Has anyone tried just putting some window weld on some already cracked bushings? I was thinking about doing this, lifting the car up off the suspension but not into the air to get the cracked bushings into a 'neutral' position and letting the window weld set. Seems cheap and easy, but possibly too good to be true...

 

Honestly, the tears are SUPER tight...so trying to get window weld in there by moving the bushing by hand, you probably won't be successful. As far as putting it in the existing gaps, you can try...but I think the WW is really to add to the structural integrity...I don't think it's strong enough to PROVIDE the structural integrity once it's torn.

 

Did they issue a recall yet? I have a 2007 TLS with 71K on it and am scared to look!!!!

 

they probably won't...
I asked at the local acura dealership once...they told me they've never heard of that failure before. BS...but whatever. If they don't acknowledge it it'll never grow to the point of Acura issuing a recall. I guess a crappy ride isn't enough of a safety concern to fix it.

Now that I've done it once though...I would absolutely not be scared again...borrow that clamp on lower balljoint removal tool...get the lower control arm off in 15 minutes...then drive it to local machine shop. Pay $10 per side to have them press in new ones...have a beer while I wait, and then put it all back together.

Just need to get my alignment redone once more...waiting to make sure I don't want to change anything else before getting the alignment.

 

how are the bushings with the windows weld holding up?

 

Bump...

I have read this whole thread today during various breaks, waiting for the page where some elegant solution bubbles to the top and everyone gives three cheers. Oh well.

I noticed my cracked compliance bushings while doing a full brake job at 62,000. I'm at 72,500 now. I have noticed an ever so slight feeling, halfway between a thud and a click, when accelerating from a stop. Could be these bushings, or an engine mount... will be addressing all this summer.

But just to recap, it looks like the preferred move, here, is to replace the bushings with OEM, preferably 04-06 part number, and then to just wait until it happens again in 10-20K miles? What a pisser...

I am very curious to see how Rockstar's window-welded bushings have held up. Hope this thread comes back! Looks like it has a number of times over the past couple of years.

It is a shame that Honda has not acknowledged this issue. You'd think that damn near 600 posts on the topic would indicate a design flaw worth addressing.

Still, though, I've yet to spend a penny on a non-wear/tear item on my '06 A/T and can't complain too loudly. Still will, of course...

 

So far, so good, man...I think the window weld is adding that slight amount of support to KEEP it from cracking. Who knows?!

I will say what I immediately noticed when the cracks got bad was when I was going around a curve, the front of the car felt VERY unpredictable.

J.

 

For those of you who had done it themselves such as 'Rockstar143'...do you know what diamter pipe was used to press the old bushing out of the control arm? Or, does anyone know the overall diameter of the new bushing?

I'm asking so that I know ahead of time what size pipe I need to press out the bushing.

Thanks!

 

I still have my old one...and a micrometer...i'll see if i can get you some exact MM measurements on it tonight...then you'll know what size you need bigger and smaller.

Honestly though...if you have a machine shop locally...pay the $20 to have the new ones pressed in. Serious...take the arms out yourself and drop them off...come back in and hour and reinstall. Wasn't worth the headache IMO. That said, if you have a MONSTER press or vice, you can press them out pretty easily.

J.

 

Thanks for replying! Will definetly appreciate the size, when you measure it later.

I do have a mechanic friend who can press them for me. I thought about removing the arms myself, to help save him time, but I'm somewhat hesitant being I haven't done it before. Granted, I consider myself mechanically inclined but whenever I'm doing something for the first time, I rather have some guidance and/or photos to follow.

 

not rocket science, man, if you have some wratchets and sockets, you can definitely take them out yourself...just be careful to use the right tool on removing the lower ball joint. I also had the lift to use, so I was lucky.

 

the pipe on the outside diameter would have to be 59.84-60MM
inside pipe to push OUT bushing is 54MMish...
Hope that helps...doesn't have to be that precise.

 

this control arm problem is wack thank god my buddy work at acura & charged me 80 bucks cuz i called a dealer in li and bk they was asking 280 + tax.. then my homie put my car on his lift and did it for 20 bucks....now im thinking i shoulda changed the left one too

 

Definetly will help...Thanks again!

 

anytime, man...good luck!
and yes, good idea to change both while at it!

 

Took my car into Weir Canyon Acura to have a tearing bushing replaced. 43k miles, lowered on tein h tech. No questions asked, covered by warranty, they had the part and total visit was an hour. While there I asked the parts guy for a few oil drain plug washers, he gave me 4 for free. I love this dealership. They are the same ones that mildly curbed one of my wheels, over a previous curbing that came with the wheels when I bought them. When the repair guy came they paid him to fix two of my wheels, so I got two wheels fixed for free.

 

Sounds like how every dealership should be.

 

just changed mines 2 bushings were 56 shipped...my boy charged me 125 to put both in

 

I just checked my compliance bushings.

2008 TL base with 33K miles.

I do see some minor crack, but no major tearing. How bad were some of your bushings when you got them replaced?

Here are a few pics of mine:

 

I have an 06 Accord.... I have been experiencing steering issues for a while now... At least 5-10k miles.

Yesterday I was getting new tires put on and saw this:

Left front lower control arm bushing completely torn. My steering issues consist of a very "wandery" steering that is hard to track straight. Yesterday I got some Michelin Primacy MXM4s on so the car should be tracking straight as an arrow. It is tracking straighter than with the old tires, but not as straight as it should be. There is still a wander.....

This could be causing it right? I only have 62,000 miles on my 06 Accord EXL V6

 

yup...looks like u need new bushings............i replaced mines back in January..........cheapest way is to buy the bushings at the dealer and take your control arms, to your local machine shop.