just got my bushings today. kinda scared to install them.

 

So I'm in the middle of the LCA removal process and am stuck trying to separate the ball joint from the LCA. I tried the trick here http://www.tuner-junction.com/TJForu...val-trick.html and it seemed to help as there is more of a gap between the LCA and the ball joint but it's still stuck in there pretty snuggly.

 

You may need to grab a puller, see post #462...Good luck!!

 

I got two different pitman arm pullers but they wouldn't fit as the control arm is too big for the jaws to fit into.

I also read just hitting the side of the LCA will cause the taper of the ball joint to just separate. I tried it and to no avail...

 

You can smack the bottom of the ball joint with a hammer. I suggest flipping the nut around and threading it back on just in case you mess up the threads.

 

Oh, ok. I'll try that right now. I'm just scared of breaking the boot/ ball joint.

 

Good thing you have an extra hour tonight Hope that sucker comes apart!!

Who's pressing it for you?

 

i found a shop out in la that will press them for 10 bucks each. I just tried hammering the bottom of the ball joint thread and it is isnt budging.

 

Getting much closer...just got the ball joint to push out from the lca by about half an inch.

 

So my local acura dealer replaced both my LCA's under my extended wrnty. $50 deductible. Total repair cost $907. Car rides so much better than ever. Much more tight and quiet

 

For those who have replaced the LCA bushings themselves, any tips on separating the LCA from the balljoint?

 

A mini sledge or prybar works well.

 

I gave up on trying to install the bushings myself. Took it in to the local mechanic and got the bushings replaced for $120 flat. I brought in the type-s bushings. Would have been $140 if they used their own parts. PM me if you need the name and address of mechanic.

 

That's a huge difference from the $500+ most dealers want to do bushings.

 

I'm in. I think Im guna order these... mine have been torn for a while. Pus I found a decent machine shop to do it.

 

I just got done ordering mines. What do you guys think about this tool? [IMG]www.techshopmag.com/.../sp_tools_introduces_hondaacura_front_lower_ compliance_bushing_rr_tool.aspx[/IMG]

 

i am getting these pressed in tomorrow at 10 am and want to make sure I orient them correctly. i've been through this thread a couple times and havent found anything other than to orient them correctly including the z axis.

i see on the bushing there is an arrow. could someone let me know exactly where to point this arrow on the lca? a pic would be awesome.

 

Here is a pic of my current orientation. the drivers lca is pointed almost directly west and the passenger is at 1 oclock. if you look at them side by side though it seems that they are oriented in some predetermined position if you dont go by the arrows.
[IMG][/IMG]

 

Sorry for the multi post. I didn't have the camera after the first post and forget to mention in my second post that the collars came out of the lca when I seperated the ball joint. I seperated the collars from the ball joint and they look new still. I know the manual says to replace the whole lca if this happens but they aren't damaged. Can't they just be pressed back in?

 

Can someone post up what are the symptoms of torn compliance bushings? I'm getting mine replaced and would like to know what I should be looking for.

 

i went to the dealer had the same issue one of the tech said its normal wear nothing to worry about and i said bull shit!!!!lol going back to tommorw to see if it can be fix!!!!

 

Biggest symptom is vibration in the steering column & a lack of a "SOLID" feel while driving.

 

i just replaced all the bushings in my lca's. they were not fun to get out. i really did not have a correct die to press them out. i did have use of a press. i needed to put the bushings in the press and put pressure on them, then heat the lca very slowly not concentrating the heat in one area for too long. finally after the lca started to get very hot in the bushing location i put a little more pressure on the press and it POPPED loose and i pressed it out. all in all my lca's took 4 hours to do. not fun. i also ended up marking the original position of the compliance bushings and reinstalled in the same orientation. i still don't know if it's right but the car is much tighter now.
new pirellis pzeros a/s 245/45/17 installed the next day didnt hurt.

 

Hey guys, sorry to resurect an old thread but there is alot of info here... has anyone bought borrowed or stole one of these?
http://www.toolsource.com/-p-110222.html?sourceid=blg
No affiliation by the way but I'm considering buying one, it's a bit pricy but there are many Hondas among family and friends,...just wanted to know if anyone had any +/- about the quality.

Thoughts?

 

^interesting...

 

Nice find....I added myself to be notified if it goes on sale. I might just buy it and then resell it in the BM.....

 

^this.... or we can buy one and pass it around the forum with some ones UPS/FED-EX act#. Charging a small maybe $35 rental fee. HRRMM

 

Sorry guys for the late response, I was gonna post up some reviews about this product after I changed out my bushings, but been busy. I am pleased to say that this thing really works, no need for a press. I bought the product with the intentions that if it wasnt strong enough to push out the bushing then at least I would have the correct sized die for usage with a press from harbor freight. Needless to say, this thing works like a charm. It is worth every penny, and the cool thing is that if you were able to obtain the correct size die for other bushings on the vehicle then you could possibly use this set up to push them out as long as the threaded rod that comes with the kit can fit through the center hole of said bushing.

 

I missed your original post with the link. Guess you were the first to see this tool. Great info!!

Can you post some details/hints on the use of the tool when you have time? Also, any hints on getting the control arms off? Lots of folks seem to have great difficulty getting those #!$*@ things off.

Where did you buy it from and what price did you pay? I'm really thinking about taking the plunge. Both my bushings are torn and at 105K I think it's time to take care of it.

 

Never tried this, but with this tool maybe the LCA doesn't need to be removed from the car, just unbolt, drop down, use the press then reinstall.

 

Man, that sure would be nice. How far down will the LCA drop? Based on the photo over at SP tools (see link below), looks like it'll need 8"-12" clearance to operate...Not sure which side of the LCA that photo is showing and which direction the bushing presses out/in (top or bottom or either)?

http://www.sptool.com/images/stories...65130_ex01.jpg

 

Well I had checked mine about 5days ago, and I am pleased to say that mine are still good on both sides... 08 TL-S under 19k... I have set my mentality on these will be going bad sometime within the next 20k or so...

 

Bushing come out the side. Reason I mention this is that on some cars I will drop the lca, not break the ball joint to change a CV joint or axle. The inner part of the lca should drop down qite a bit after loosening the stabilizer link. Worth a shot.

 

Yeah, but which side? ( i.e. up or down as you're looking at the LCA on the car).

I'm guessing it's not directional and the bushing will come out either side. Definitely worth a try. Maybe TacaoBell can further enlighten us....

 

One is vertical and the other is horizontal, but just an educated guess, I say they should be able to be removed either way, up or down or left or right.

 

Its defiantly a tricky situation to be in. Recently i took my 2month new to me 08 TLS to the dealer because of a squeak i would hear at random times. Come to find out sub frame is ripped near the front lower control arm bushing (not covered in warranty for a list of shallow reasons) .. The dealer not only wanted to charge me 1100 for a new sub frame but another 600 for an entire new control arm . Altogether 3k. I called up one of the mechanics i knew and took it to his shop. Instead of replacing the entire control arm and sub frame, he quoted 600 to take the sub frame to an aluminum manufacturer he knew to be fixed and to replace the busted bushing. I went with that. But to sum it up, the dealer does seem steep but will warranty their work and you KNOW it will be right. The shops may save you some money but may not give you the same sense of "its fixed for sure" feeling.. not sure if this will help or if im just ramblin on.. either way my $0.02 for free..

 

Thanks for the report, I'll definately be getting one.

 

Unfortunately the LCA has to be removed to use the tool. There is just not enough clearance/play for the tool to fit inside. Taking out the lower control arm is not too hard. To do it, first you have to remove the strut fork, then the bottom bolt of the stabilizer link and swing it out the way. Next you have to remove the lower ball joint, then the other two bolts that hold the LCA and your done. Using the tool and working by myself with no lift, I got both sides done in about three hours. It could have been less, but the garage was freezing and I had to redo the left side because I had the bushing upside down. Just remember to note which side is top and bottom because they both have arrows printed on them on both sides. Hope that helps.

 

Was afraid of that.

Did you put weight on the suspension before tightening the bolts?

 

I've ordered the tool, after shopping around the best price that I found was $140.00 + shipping.

I figure if I do both sides the tool will have paid for itself, everything else is gravy.