Hey guys, I have a question.

So after weeks of waiting for all the parts to arrive, I have successfully rebuilt the passenger-side suspension of my dad's car. But there was a problem after the repair.

Before the repair, I got a parking notice. I was panicked, I tried to pull the axle out but couldn't, so I cut the boot, pulled 2/3 of the axle out, put a new knuckle on, and pushed the car to the front of my house. The 1st and 2nd pics were how the wheel looked after I pushed it. It looked negative camber.

So I just finished everything today, but when I put the wheel on, it still looked like the 1st and 2nd pics.

What causes this problem? Is it damage to the frame, where the 3 bolts of the strut are located? I touched all the components of the front right suspension except for the strut(lower control arm, sway bar end link, wheel bearing and hub, cv axle, and the knuckle/spindle). Can it be repaired?

 

what does the alignment sheet say?

 

the car is still on jackstands and the battery is dead. I can put a new battery in but I’m afraid to drive it like that. Could it cause more problem if i try to drive to the near by alignment place?

 

tow it

 

Is the axle all the way in and seated properly?

 

yes, I used the axle like a slide hammer and pushed it into the spline. It slid in and I heard a clicking noise. As do the hub side, I pushed it into the hub several times to make sure it was in all the way. Made some noise so I put the axle nut on and tightened it to specs.

 

Is this bent?

 

Try rolling it and see if there is any rubbing between the tire and the strut. Inspect the lower control arm bushings

 

So I brought this car to the nearby shop and had them inspect what caused the top of the wheel to be pushed inward. The guy said the subframe was pushed to the driver's side a little bit but not enough to hurt anything. He also said that the knuckle/spindle got stressed when I put the bearing and hub in. The distance between the top of the knuckle and the axle nut was ~6.5 in on the driver's side and ~7.0 in on the passenger side. They said I need to buy another knuckle.

Is this possible?

I put the bearing and the hub on myself with the tool from Autozone. I bought the knuckle from a local junkyard and the old bearing was stuck on the knuckle pretty tight. I struggled to remove the old bearing.

Could this be why the knuckle is stressed?

The car is 2014 but the knuckle is 2013, same car same generation but different year.

 

Did you compare your old knuckle with your new junkyard knuckle before installing it?

 

Unless the salvage yard knuckle was already bent / damaged upon purchasing, the 2013 will fit the 2014.


Knuckle - 2014 Acura ILX 4 Door BASE KA 5AT (acurapartswarehouse.com)

 

i did not, the old one was broken. They have the same number on the body so i just remove the old bearing and hub then put the new one in the knuckle. Big mistake

 

i just checked the photo on the salvage yard website and the car got hit on the passenger. The collision might damaged the knuckle ig

 

Post up the link!

Sounds like the shop mechanic was right?

 

actually, there is no website. I got the pics from a different website.

 

Do you guys think that an incorrect length cv axle can cause this? I forgot to mention that I replaced the cv axle with an aftermarket one.

 

^


brah, don't tell me, they removed it for you & you just picked it up & $$'ed?

 

Yeah, I got too silly. But I got the knuckle for $50. Btw my dad just called me and said the cv axle length could be the culprit. But Idk who did he ask

 

Is the car a manual or automatic transmission?
Depending on which, does the one you purchased cross reference with the OEM part #?
They (part #'s) are different between the two transmissions.

 

Automatic transmission. I bought this cv axle. The pic of the wheel was taken before the repair, the car had no axle when I took the pic.

 

^
This is what I'm coming up with based on the information you have provide:


OEM part number information:

OEM 44305-TX6-A01 plugged into the rockauto 'Part Number Search' functionality:

The only passenger side axle that comes up with GSP NCV21066 above.
More Information for GSP NCV21066 (rockauto.com)


This is a typical example of the importance of researching the OEM part number first, before purchasing ANYTHING, per your year make & model.
I base the OEM search on the '4 door PREM (2.0) below since that is the only one that ties to your RA data above?

 

Ok so i checked the compressed length of the one i got and the gsp, both have the same length. Iirc, my car is a 14’ ilx tech 5a 2.0

 

^
So if the passenger side axle compressed length is 22.91 inches on both brands, then that puts you back to either the right knuckle, front sub-frame, lower arm and / or strut assembly mentioned on your other thread?

 

New arm + junk yard strut(car got rear ended). So now it is either the knuckle or the subframe. My told me to get a brand new own knuckle but that thing is expensive.

 

Go to car-part.com, if you have not already, and input your ILX data, when I looked there were four pages with a nationwide search.
Maybe there is another ILX local to you that you can harvest a right side knuckle / sub frame from?
Though you may have another spindle / bearing struggle ahead?

 

I used that website to find used parts in my area. Some yards have the knuckle for my car, but most got hit on the front passenger side. I will try to find a used one for my dad’s car again after I finish tidying up my room.

 

The only other model that shares the exact knuckle part # 51211-TR7-A10 is:


Good Luck!

 

Let's keep the threads to a single one yea? Thanks

 

the mechanic was right. The junkyard knuckle i got was bent and the distance from the top to the middle was longer than the broken oem one, $50 wasted

 

^
So what is the plan going forward, new $$$ OEM?

 

maybe, the hub and bearing are new. Cannot find a cheap junkyard one.

 

Has dad found out yet

 

Yeah

 

Found a yard with a knuckle for $50, but the car looks like this. Should I take the risk and buy it or spend $400 on an oemone?

 

The same junkyard has a 12’ civic si knuckle for $55. The car got rear ended. Guy on the phone was rude af, should i got for it yall?

 

^

Salvage yard lizards can be mean af & sketchy, so be mindful.
If you or they can absolutely confirm that the car is a 2 door OR 4 door (can't really tell by the pictures above) 6MT (interior shot show the shifter?) 2012 Civic SI, then a $355 savings over new OEM is a good thing.
51211-TR7-A10 - Genuine Honda Knuckle, Right Front (hondapartsnow.com)

 

Update!!

put another knuckle in and another shit happened. The wheel now looks slightly positive camber. What could be the culprit now? The subframe? The knuckle again? Am I running out of DIY solutions? Bad alignment? The junkyard strut??