So guys guess we will start with its an 08 type s hasn't been wrecked or body repair in its life

But I have an issue with the inner wheel lip rubbing on the drivers side rear coil.

No spacers lip literally sits on the coil both sides

5mm spacer debit card space until you move the car both sides

15mm spacer almost quarter inch gap until you turn while backing then it's in the coil drivers side only

20mm spacer nearly 3/4 inch gap between wheel and coil until backing and turning at which point it just barely touches the coil drivers side only

All this information to ask beyond sway bar end links and the upper and lower camber arms what keeps the rear wheel true or is it engineered by Honda to have some nominal movement side to side in the rear? Would/does the "toe angle" bar help in maintaining a constant distance? I obviously know all 3 of those bars play a part in where the wheel is in the fender wheel but the lateral/sidetoside movement has me stumped

End links are tight as snot and "appear" to be in good shape.

Not a fan of asking such vague/open ended questions but Im at wits end

 

Get an alignment to see where the specs are..
if out of spec, tech will align to factory specs.

 

jack up the car and use a pry bar for leverage and you can see if any of the bushings have excessive play. Things can seem tight when the car is parked but cause issues when the car is moving. Check wheel bearings also.

Are you on factory suspension? Factory wheels? If the suspension is sagging it can cause this issue esp for the rear of the car. Being lowered would do the same thing. Using wheels with the wrong offset can also cause an issue if it's too low and the wheel is "moved" toward the suspension. Acura likes to use +45 on a 17x8 wheel. Most aftermarket wheels have lower offsets at 8" width.

 

Struggling with multi quote reply so bear with me

Justnspace I fully understand how to align my vehicle on my own and have a shop on speed dial for that

Csmenance 115k zero mile bc extreme lows ingall lower camber and toe arm upper spc camber arm 20x10 255x30x20 fenders rolled and pulled cars on stands have spend 8 hours tweaking lowering moving back on blocks then jack then stands

Jacked up there is no in or out movement on the sway bar end links does go side to side but appears that is the factory design pivot point. Have to take a walk and inspect for wheel bearing play but in my experience they "normally" get noise first

 

-45 offset

 

go get the alignment to check if out of spec.

 

Duly noted any one else with any thoughts or imput

 

+45 my bad

 

3G TL suspension has issues with toe when lowered...the kits fix the measurement, but it doesn't solve the design that allows it to change when lowered/hitting a bump.

Since you are on BC's and running wider wheels you are running into this issue as the suspension moves in an ARC up/down and as well side to side. that's why when you hit a bump the suspension compresses and your inner barrel hits the bottom of the coilover.

So 20x10+45 means that the wheel is:



Beyond doing some other heavy modifications or wheel spacers you won't be able to get much more clearance.

more info on measurement differences:
https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?whe...cl=50mm&sr=0mm

A lower offset like +30 might help which is the same as a 15mm spacer on a +45

 

I'm seeing somewhere in the neighborhood of 5mm of side to side movement in your opinion/knowledge would that be in the tolerance range for the Honda engineering? As I type that I clearly know it's a fairly aggressive set up I have and the simple answer is to raise it but I'm only seeing it on one side

15mm has me barely hitting the threaded sleeve 20mm has tire in fender.

Guess I'll attempt to pull the quarter panel a little more to see if I can get any more gains while I wait on sway bar end links to arrive. I guess a search for some 17 or 18 mm spacers should be on my agenda alao