mark_

Hi everyone,

Eibach's website lists only the base model for the ILX...is anyone able to tell me if this kit will be a straight fit for a 1st gen 2.4?
I love my ILX but coming from an MX-5 I'm missing the handling that I used to enjoy.
Yes, I realize I will never duplicate the RWD feel of the MX-5 but the closer I can get the bigger my smile will be.

Thank you.
Regards,
Mark

PRO-PLUS Kit (Pro-Kit Springs & Sway Bars)

4088.880 (part number)

Chrifff

Hello Mark,

I had the 2.4L Dynamic and used Tien springs = About the same drop you will get. To answer you question the frame of all the models of the ILX are exactly the same for the first generation ILX (2013-2015), so you should be good (You will notice there is no option to select a different model on their website for this same reason).

You will enjoy the ride and look way better with it lowered - I hated the wheel well gap. However be a little careful as even this much of a drop you can bottom out the front bumper and grind here or there. You should also consider getting an aliment done afterwards just to ensure you tires don't wear unevenly.

mark_

Thanks Chriff.
Your car looks super low in your signature...too low for my personal tastes. Maybe I'm old school but the tire gap doesn't bother me.
Can't I enjoy a better handling car without lowering it?

Mark

DaIll1

Handling is about more than springs and height, although those are significant.
Going from a Miata sports car that was designed for handling into a entry level luxury family car is quite a step
away from quick handling. You can do things to make it better, but the suspension design alone has you at a disadvantage.
Lowering the center of gravity is a big deal, lower is better, at the expense of comfort and ease of use.
You have to decide what is important in your ride and deal with the positive/negative results of modding.

Chrifff

Mark, Actually my car didn't show as that low (Check out "MY 2013 BUILD" if you are curious) only going over bigger speed bumps or steep driveways, mostly it was the front mud flaps that would touch. I also used spacers to push out the wheels.

As for other options... The ILX unfortunately was designed a little less aggressive (more luxury and comfort) from its brother the Civic SI. This car does not come with a LSD and comes with thinner sway bars. There is an easy and relatively cheap swap/install to put in the Civic SI rear sway bar which would help the cornering a little. Also some coil overs could help the ride without compromising the height of the vehicle.

MickeyILX

Hi, Mark---I'm in the same boat as you are. My 'other' car is a 2006 Miata, Sport model with the stiffer springs and Bilsteins---and the ILX is sprung much, much softer. So far, I have changed out the ILX's rear 14mm sway bar with the 19mm Eibach bar, and it is actually a very noticeable improvement. The rear is much flatter and better planted on turns. The front still rolls more than I'd like, so I am seriously considering the 24mm Eibach front bar. Installation of the front is not as simple as the back, but given the results with the rear bar, I'm hopeful that increasing the stiffness of the front bar will make the ILX ride 'acceptable.'

My handling quality benchmark is actually not the Miata, but my 1997 Integra GSR, which is entirely stock. If I can get the ILX remotely close to that with just sway bars, I'll be happy with it.

I'd also rather not get into lowering springs, because (1) the wheel gap also really doesn't bother me, (2) I don't like the idea of the rear camber being out-of-spec, and (3) given the bumpy roads and steep driveways here, I don't want to scrape or drastically reduce the ride comfort.

aomechmarine

If you have 18 inch wheels your ride height should be slightly higher then mine, and I can say that with springs, YES, I do scrape on awkward or steep driveways, But Obviously I go over them at an angle and I do clear just fine. So yes, it will affect you in that way, slightly less then me if you have 18's. I have a mild 1 inch drop all around, Swift Springs Japan. My buddy improved his TSX looks all around, he got some nice wheels and that helped the wheel gap, even tho he didn't even lower, and he doesn't want to scrape so he doesn't get springs either. If you dn't want springs I'd first suggest you add the 1)front Eibach Sway bar, the 2) rear camber arms (any brand with urethane bushings, not as harsh as the solid metal), 3)front Camber bolts, and get the 4)front tie bar and 5)rear tie bar for the 2014 civic SI. Start with those and then there is still more you can do, but most won't want to, and it won't do as much and there is a tradeoff. There's a trunk brace you can add, and a trunk cross bar, and an X brace thing under the car. Didn't seem very worth it to me.

OH, and TIRES, thats HUGE on this car. if You want to go crazy get summer tires, If you want good all seasons, then just get Y rated Extra load tires with a high mileage warranty if you have 18's. If you have 17's you can only get up to W rated All seasons like I have.

aomechmarine

I still need to add the 1)front Sway bar, 2)Rear Camber arms (I have had for quite a while but never installed), 3)front camber bolts, and a sport alignment. Plus upgrade to 18 inch wheels and Y rated all season. I was driving pretty aggressive the other day, the front was a bit squirrelly. You can feel the front wheel drive understeer. Only thing I have helping up front for that is the front tie bar, and it's not enough. (for sporty/aggressive driving, everyday driving my car is fine).I have the other mods I recommended in the post prior, I still need to do these mods so I can reduce that under-steer a bit more. Also going to add an LSD to better pull out of turns, I think that will ease up on the front end. See again, most won't want to pay to add all that. I don't mind as its a longterm hobby and project.

aomechmarine

Oh the front b0lts are cheap about $20, so are the tie bars, like $50 a piece. Thats like $120-$150 right there, can easily do yourself or just pay a tech $50. Tthe front Sway bar is like $180, But thats real labor so you are gonna pay like an hour or two of shop rate labor, plus you WILL need an alignment after adding the front sway. Tires you can upgrade when the old ones wear out. Rear camber arms can be anywhere from like $150-$350, depends on the brand, they are all about the same, just look for urethane bushing, decent known brand, and aluminum construction. Many will look pretty much exactly the same too. Skunk2 has Metal bushing, more responsive, more Harsh ride, also most expensive, like $360.