ILX Dynamic mini build from Calgary, Alberta
RSB = Progress tech 24mm, or 22mm. Eibach 19mm, or CT engineering 19mm. Exhaust is couple weeks away if you want a legit bolton made specific for the ILX -2.5 piping (was what they told me when I test fitted almost 6 months ago, could have changed, doubt it tho. Volks look dope, great color contrast /choice. Not a fan of the bike rack,mostly because tards out here in Cali get them just to stick a crapload of stickers on it/their car, and not ever actually using them. But since you actually use it 
http://www.progressauto.com/products.../productID/744
OR
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/eibach-an...roductid=66555
Any input on either of these guys? Why is there such a big price difference for 19mm vs 24mm? Which one would you go for?
mmli213 - I am doing a Redshift GC coil over set up with progress 22mm bar, and asked Chris from Redshift about which bar he recommended and how it would affect the car neutrality and bellow is his response, although keep in mind that I'm getting coil overs which will be stiffer, 350F/440R compared to stock 165F/251R, but should give you a pretty good idea since the rear on the stock setup still has a higher rate than the front by about 100 lbs, which is similar to the setup I'm getting, just stiffer overall:
The 22mm bar will make the car turn better than the stock bar. For some people, that's not the right option. A car setup to be neutral at 40 mph will oversteer at 80 mph. So, a 22mm bar makes the car more neutral at slower speeds (where we usually drive), but you have to be careful as speeds climb.
Yes 350/440 makes good sense. And the 22mm bar is great too. Makes for a very nice handling car... just have to be careful if you are going super fast on a highway offramp...the car will turn great but if you do something too stupid, it will get really light in the back and you have to know how to handle it.
The 22mm bar will make the car turn better than the stock bar. For some people, that's not the right option. A car setup to be neutral at 40 mph will oversteer at 80 mph. So, a 22mm bar makes the car more neutral at slower speeds (where we usually drive), but you have to be careful as speeds climb.
Yes 350/440 makes good sense. And the 22mm bar is great too. Makes for a very nice handling car... just have to be careful if you are going super fast on a highway offramp...the car will turn great but if you do something too stupid, it will get really light in the back and you have to know how to handle it.
Good words^^ Hence why I like to stay close to OEM... just slight upgrades.
I.e. not a crazy intake size but a larger filter inlet with better material, maybe relocate the filter too.
New exhaust but instead of some crazy 3in set up just about .5 to an inch max over stock will do for a DD.
Suspension and wheels, little lower, little stiffer, little wider.
And as for the sway bar, just a slight increase is still going to change performance. But who needs some crazy 32mm sway bar (I say that to not offend those with the 24mm). As said, it can make on and off ramp driving dangerous... especially in wet conditions.
I.e. not a crazy intake size but a larger filter inlet with better material, maybe relocate the filter too.
New exhaust but instead of some crazy 3in set up just about .5 to an inch max over stock will do for a DD.
Suspension and wheels, little lower, little stiffer, little wider.
And as for the sway bar, just a slight increase is still going to change performance. But who needs some crazy 32mm sway bar (I say that to not offend those with the 24mm). As said, it can make on and off ramp driving dangerous... especially in wet conditions.
mmli213 - I am doing a Redshift GC coil over set up with progress 22mm bar, and asked Chris from Redshift about which bar he recommended and how it would affect the car neutrality and bellow is his response, although keep in mind that I'm getting coil overs which will be stiffer, 350F/440R compared to stock 165F/251R, but should give you a pretty good idea since the rear on the stock setup still has a higher rate than the front by about 100 lbs, which is similar to the setup I'm getting, just stiffer overall:
The 22mm bar will make the car turn better than the stock bar. For some people, that's not the right option. A car setup to be neutral at 40 mph will oversteer at 80 mph. So, a 22mm bar makes the car more neutral at slower speeds (where we usually drive), but you have to be careful as speeds climb.
Yes 350/440 makes good sense. And the 22mm bar is great too. Makes for a very nice handling car... just have to be careful if you are going super fast on a highway offramp...the car will turn great but if you do something too stupid, it will get really light in the back and you have to know how to handle it.
The 22mm bar will make the car turn better than the stock bar. For some people, that's not the right option. A car setup to be neutral at 40 mph will oversteer at 80 mph. So, a 22mm bar makes the car more neutral at slower speeds (where we usually drive), but you have to be careful as speeds climb.
Yes 350/440 makes good sense. And the 22mm bar is great too. Makes for a very nice handling car... just have to be careful if you are going super fast on a highway offramp...the car will turn great but if you do something too stupid, it will get really light in the back and you have to know how to handle it.
hmmmm what to do what to do...
Good words^^ Hence why I like to stay close to OEM... just slight upgrades.
I.e. not a crazy intake size but a larger filter inlet with better material, maybe relocate the filter too.
New exhaust but instead of some crazy 3in set up just about .5 to an inch max over stock will do for a DD.
Suspension and wheels, little lower, little stiffer, little wider.
And as for the sway bar, just a slight increase is still going to change performance. But who needs some crazy 32mm sway bar (I say that to not offend those with the 24mm). As said, it can make on and off ramp driving dangerous... especially in wet conditions.
I.e. not a crazy intake size but a larger filter inlet with better material, maybe relocate the filter too.
New exhaust but instead of some crazy 3in set up just about .5 to an inch max over stock will do for a DD.
Suspension and wheels, little lower, little stiffer, little wider.
And as for the sway bar, just a slight increase is still going to change performance. But who needs some crazy 32mm sway bar (I say that to not offend those with the 24mm). As said, it can make on and off ramp driving dangerous... especially in wet conditions.
wow we got jacked with a stock 14mm RSB when a 13' Si has 18mm!
On a side note, have you guys heard of EZ Lip? I'm thinking of getting one since its only $30 or so.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/ACURA-EZ-LIP-...vxp=mtr&_uhb=1

On a side note, have you guys heard of EZ Lip? I'm thinking of getting one since its only $30 or so.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/ACURA-EZ-LIP-...vxp=mtr&_uhb=1

Someone here has used the EZ lip before. They made a thread titled "Protect Your Bumper" or something like that.
If you want my opinion (its a negative one)... I say you are better off spending that $30 on two great craft beers or a bully full of sushi.
The EZ lip is literally a garage door weather stripping you could buy at homedepot for 10 bucks prior to the EZ lip craze.
So I ask you... do you really want to tape a 5 dollar weather strip to your near 30thousand dollar car???
In the end, if you like it go for it. I personally think they look gross and when I see a nice car that has one I normally have a huge smile on my face until I see the homedepot lip and instantly walk away.
If you want my opinion (its a negative one)... I say you are better off spending that $30 on two great craft beers or a bully full of sushi.
The EZ lip is literally a garage door weather stripping you could buy at homedepot for 10 bucks prior to the EZ lip craze.
So I ask you... do you really want to tape a 5 dollar weather strip to your near 30thousand dollar car???
In the end, if you like it go for it. I personally think they look gross and when I see a nice car that has one I normally have a huge smile on my face until I see the homedepot lip and instantly walk away.
Someone here has used the EZ lip before. They made a thread titled "Protect Your Bumper" or something like that.
If you want my opinion (its a negative one)... I say you are better off spending that $30 on two great craft beers or a bully full of sushi.
The EZ lip is literally a garage door weather stripping you could buy at homedepot for 10 bucks prior to the EZ lip craze.
So I ask you... do you really want to tape a 5 dollar weather strip to your near 30thousand dollar car???
In the end, if you like it go for it. I personally think they look gross and when I see a nice car that has one I normally have a huge smile on my face until I see the homedepot lip and instantly walk away.
If you want my opinion (its a negative one)... I say you are better off spending that $30 on two great craft beers or a bully full of sushi.
The EZ lip is literally a garage door weather stripping you could buy at homedepot for 10 bucks prior to the EZ lip craze.
So I ask you... do you really want to tape a 5 dollar weather strip to your near 30thousand dollar car???
In the end, if you like it go for it. I personally think they look gross and when I see a nice car that has one I normally have a huge smile on my face until I see the homedepot lip and instantly walk away.
Those TE's look great. I went with a '13 SI rear sway bar. It made a big difference from our stock 14mm. What size spacers are you running? Are they just in the rear? What are your specs on the TE's? I am able to run 25mm spacers with my 18x8 +44 RE30.
Thanks!
Reason i say this: I have full bolt-ons and a real dyno tune and i'm pushing 165ft lbs. stock is low 150's at the wheel. Really hard to get damn near 30% increase in TQ without some boost. HP seems high too, not 1 9th gen si has hit 200whp with those bolt ons and a tune. All that broke 200whp w/o boost had the RBC swap
Engine mods are:
-RV6 DP catless
-K&N Typhoon intake
-P2R TB Spacer
-Unorthodox Racing pulley set
Reason i say this: I have full bolt-ons and a real dyno tune and i'm pushing 165ft lbs. stock is low 150's at the wheel. Really hard to get damn near 30% increase in TQ without some boost. HP seems high too, not 1 9th gen si has hit 200whp with those bolt ons and a tune. All that broke 200whp w/o boost had the RBC swap
Full-Race 3"'downpipe and exhaust. K&n typhoon and flashpro tune. Plus a ton other non-engine
Already bought a supercharger and should be installed in 3 weeks or so. At that point will also have the prl cai, zdx throttle body, upgraded fuel pump and injectors.
Not trying to be a prick by any means just dont want others thinking you can get those kind of #'s with those mods, trust me i would have 100% done what u did to get 192TQ. Thats a legitimate # that can only be achieved with boost.
Either way props for the tune. Very similar to mine
What bolt ons are you running?[/QUOTE]
Already bought a supercharger and should be installed in 3 weeks or so. At that point will also have the prl cai, zdx throttle body, upgraded fuel pump and injectors.
Not trying to be a prick by any means just dont want others thinking you can get those kind of #'s with those mods, trust me i would have 100% done what u did to get 192TQ. Thats a legitimate # that can only be achieved with boost.
Either way props for the tune. Very similar to mine
What bolt ons are you running?[/QUOTE]
Full-Race 3"'downpipe and exhaust. K&n typhoon and flashpro tune. Plus a ton other non-engine
Already bought a supercharger and should be installed in 3 weeks or so. At that point will also have the prl cai, zdx throttle body, upgraded fuel pump and injectors.
Not trying to be a prick by any means just dont want others thinking you can get those kind of #'s with those mods, trust me i would have 100% done what u did to get 192TQ. Thats a legitimate # that can only be achieved with boost.
Either way props for the tune. Very similar to mine
What bolt ons are you running?
Already bought a supercharger and should be installed in 3 weeks or so. At that point will also have the prl cai, zdx throttle body, upgraded fuel pump and injectors.
Not trying to be a prick by any means just dont want others thinking you can get those kind of #'s with those mods, trust me i would have 100% done what u did to get 192TQ. Thats a legitimate # that can only be achieved with boost.
Either way props for the tune. Very similar to mine
What bolt ons are you running?
No offence taken. I also want to supercharge but 2 things are stopping me:
- $3500 + install
- my lease is up next year and just don't wanna dump so much $$ into it
finally got around to intalling my 13' Si RSB. I don't notice as much of a difference as some of the guys on here, maybe its just me? I guess I cant complain when it only cost me $72CAD for bushings and sway bar (perks of working at an Acura dealership 
Pics for comparison, 14mm (stocK) vs 20mm (13' + Si)


Pics for comparison, 14mm (stocK) vs 20mm (13' + Si)

Great price, nice pickup. I was worried about possible subframe tear-out with the available 24mm and 22mm sway bars from Progress, but now that they went 20mm OEM, I'm not really worried about it at all. I don't think Honda would push the car to the edges of what it can handle. Just wouldn't make sense money wise for them later on if the car had issues. Theres also a crazy HPD sway bar out now too. But unless you have a HPD race car account, you can't buy it. The OEM 20mm bar now pretty much negates the 19mm Eibach bar, since its cheaper (even if we don't have a a Honda employee discount).
Did you buy the '13 Coupe or Sedan SI rear sway bar? And did you replace the bushings and endlinks as well? Thanks.
Thanks! I seem to be finding conflicting information from this forum and Civic forums regarding the bar diameter. Can you tell me if the Si Sedan bar is 15 or 18mm?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rcs86
Car Parts for Sale
3
Aug 2, 2016 06:52 PM
Sarlacc
Console & Computer Gaming
5
Sep 30, 2015 02:15 PM










