Air intake questions
#2
Depends. I have the Injen cold air intake - the DC sports and AEM (cold air ones, because they have short ram as well) are basically the same design as Injen's.
My MPG and the sound change were GREAT - at first. The after a little while, the "computer" adjusted for the change, so then it isnt as dramatic. So if you do exhaust and header - the other basic bolt-ons, you'll get some effect, but to REALLY get the most out of it, you need a tune. Hondata.
AND - If you ever think you might do the supercharger, I would recommend not bothering with the cold air or a short ram, they don't work together on the superchargers available. (im pretty sure they don't with most in general).
Since I have all 3 the difference is very noticeable - soundwise and performance wise. BUT - i don't have a tune, so it could definitely be way better.
My MPG and the sound change were GREAT - at first. The after a little while, the "computer" adjusted for the change, so then it isnt as dramatic. So if you do exhaust and header - the other basic bolt-ons, you'll get some effect, but to REALLY get the most out of it, you need a tune. Hondata.
AND - If you ever think you might do the supercharger, I would recommend not bothering with the cold air or a short ram, they don't work together on the superchargers available. (im pretty sure they don't with most in general).
Since I have all 3 the difference is very noticeable - soundwise and performance wise. BUT - i don't have a tune, so it could definitely be way better.
#4
Before the supercharger I was at 191whp with an intake/downpipe and 3" full exhaust. That's with a real dyno tune. Stock whp for the 2.4l is like 165, no idea what % of the gains were from the intake by itself, but with those 3 bolt-ons and a tune you can achieve over 190whp. I also had a dyno done 1 month earlier (same dyno very similar weather) that put me at 178whp, that was with the bolt-ons and NO TUNE (so about a 13whp gain over bone stock). But again, how much from the intake? Tough to say. Honestly maybe none, maybe a little. I know the K&N Typhoon intake reduced horsepower over a stock air box. So again do any of them really add power...you'd have to see a full stock + tuned dyno vs a stock+intake+tuned dyno to compare.
I have the PRL Motorsports CAI with the battery relocation kit. Highly recommend this one. Fits on the stock 2.4L and the CTe Supercharger if you ever go that route. This is a very popular CAI on the 9th gen forum where there are many many guys with full bolt-ons, tunes and even superchargers.
Hope this helps.
I have the PRL Motorsports CAI with the battery relocation kit. Highly recommend this one. Fits on the stock 2.4L and the CTe Supercharger if you ever go that route. This is a very popular CAI on the 9th gen forum where there are many many guys with full bolt-ons, tunes and even superchargers.
Hope this helps.
#5
To simply that.
Most any car with a stock tune and air intake won't have anything noticeable except the sound and your wallet.
Add an aftermarket tune to that and you may start to feel the difference. Add a few other easy bolt on like upgrading the header/downpipe, cat delete, new intact manifold and match that with a tune and you'll see real improvements.
Without a tune though it'll be pretty unnoticeable.
Most any car with a stock tune and air intake won't have anything noticeable except the sound and your wallet.
Add an aftermarket tune to that and you may start to feel the difference. Add a few other easy bolt on like upgrading the header/downpipe, cat delete, new intact manifold and match that with a tune and you'll see real improvements.
Without a tune though it'll be pretty unnoticeable.
#7
I purchased a PRL SRI and installed it untuned and the car did NOT drive well at all. After exchanging emails with Vit I was told it was better to remain on the stock intake until the car can get tuned. Unfortunately Hondata has not released and updated flash pro for the 2015 ILX and for now looks like a waste of 180$.
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#8
I purchased a PRL SRI and installed it untuned and the car did NOT drive well at all. After exchanging emails with Vit I was told it was better to remain on the stock intake until the car can get tuned. Unfortunately Hondata has not released and updated flash pro for the 2015 ILX and for now looks like a waste of 180$.
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k24ilx (03-13-2015)
#9
Yeah if you look at my 1st dyno chart before the initial tune you'll see a big misfire at low rpms - had to have been caused by 1 or more bolt-ons. Hope Hondata updates soon, sometimes they're pretty slow though. Call them, might actually remind them you never know. Your experience is what most people should realize - on newer cars the actual tune is WAY more important than the bolt-ons themselves. In some cases the bolt-ons do absolutely nothing or even decrease performance.
I ordered the full race catless DP and plan to install it, i was informed it would probably throw a "no cat" code but the car will still run well and i should be Ok.
other than that going to have to hold off on performance till i can get real gains from the mods. New wheels coming to take my mind off it for awhile
#10
k24ilx, for the cat issue you can pick up a defouler which will help the ecu to not throw that error code.
It's literally just a small pipe that holds the sensor an inch or so further way from where it normally sits so that it wont pick up what make sit throw the code.
You wont pass smog with that set up but itll sound beast... may smell a tad as well.
When it comes to Hondata... fuck them.
They make a great product. But they wont make a new product or update any current equipment until their competition does so. Hondata likes to sit around on their asses until someone else proves there is money to be made with a specific model/year.
Ktuner has shown interest in pushing out a tuning option for even the R series in the ILX. Contact them with your interest. They already wanted to ship me s test until for the R20 but I declined for the time being. Hit them up about a k24 option for the 2015 ILX and see what they say. Cooler group of guys than hondata imo.
It's literally just a small pipe that holds the sensor an inch or so further way from where it normally sits so that it wont pick up what make sit throw the code.
You wont pass smog with that set up but itll sound beast... may smell a tad as well.
When it comes to Hondata... fuck them.
They make a great product. But they wont make a new product or update any current equipment until their competition does so. Hondata likes to sit around on their asses until someone else proves there is money to be made with a specific model/year.
Ktuner has shown interest in pushing out a tuning option for even the R series in the ILX. Contact them with your interest. They already wanted to ship me s test until for the R20 but I declined for the time being. Hit them up about a k24 option for the 2015 ILX and see what they say. Cooler group of guys than hondata imo.
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k24ilx (03-15-2015)
#12
The 2.4L ILX has a cold airbox from factory. If you remove the resonator the lower portion of the airbox is sucking cold air from the outside. My current set-up is a removed resonator, HPS silicone intake arm, and a K&N filter. I have not dyno'd it, but it is noticeably louder and seems to pull harder up top.
12 13 14 9thgen Honda Civic Si 2.4L HPS Silicone Post MAF Air Intake Tube Hose Red No Heat Soak
Link for the intake arm if interested.
12 13 14 9thgen Honda Civic Si 2.4L HPS Silicone Post MAF Air Intake Tube Hose Red No Heat Soak
Link for the intake arm if interested.
#13
The 2.4L ILX has a cold airbox from factory. If you remove the resonator the lower portion of the airbox is sucking cold air from the outside. My current set-up is a removed resonator, HPS silicone intake arm, and a K&N filter. I have not dyno'd it, but it is noticeably louder and seems to pull harder up top.
12 13 14 9thgen Honda Civic Si 2.4L HPS Silicone Post MAF Air Intake Tube Hose Red No Heat Soak
Link for the intake arm if interested.
12 13 14 9thgen Honda Civic Si 2.4L HPS Silicone Post MAF Air Intake Tube Hose Red No Heat Soak
Link for the intake arm if interested.
do you have a 15 or 16 ilx? You able to provide any more info on your setup? Any photos or instructions available ? Is the silicone arm replacing the resonator? Which K&N filter are you using?
#14
Whatever drop in kit fits the oe acura airbox. K&N should have a search for that.
Silicon arm replaces the plastic tubing from the air box to the intake manifold. The resonator sits under the air box. I believe triscuit either just removed the resonator or set up his own ducting that just connects the bottom of the airbox to an area around the fog light.
Silicon arm replaces the plastic tubing from the air box to the intake manifold. The resonator sits under the air box. I believe triscuit either just removed the resonator or set up his own ducting that just connects the bottom of the airbox to an area around the fog light.
#15
Whatever drop in kit fits the oe acura airbox. K&N should have a search for that.
Silicon arm replaces the plastic tubing from the air box to the intake manifold. The resonator sits under the air box. I believe triscuit either just removed the resonator or set up his own ducting that just connects the bottom of the airbox to an area around the fog light.
Silicon arm replaces the plastic tubing from the air box to the intake manifold. The resonator sits under the air box. I believe triscuit either just removed the resonator or set up his own ducting that just connects the bottom of the airbox to an area around the fog light.
as for the k&n filter, it seems that they haven't yet developed a drop in filter for the 2016 engine yet. I even looked to see if they had the same one for the TLX or the Accord (both of which have variants of the 16 ilx engine), but both filters are different.
#16
I own a 2014 2.4L. Not sure if the arm is the same for the 16 and above. Sorry I didn't do a walk-through, but it was relatively simple to do.
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