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hahaha absolutely bro im not a car genius, thats the reason why im on this page to learn, and avoid research on google I assume there are people here that know, maybe like you....help me, btw finally unlocked my thread
I wouldn't go s/c.. custom turbo would be my route with piggyback controller and meth. Either route will be about 7-10k in parts and tuning. Several TSX guys are on chargers like ccccccolt, look through the TSX board.
I had some cree led for reverse on the TL...
shoot, I still might have them in there...
they're really bright but directional!
I had some ebay cree leds. They were fine while i had them. Never noticed issues.
I got these new ones because thmanx really suggested them and he sounded very knowledgeable. Hes developing his own led line.
I compared them during the day and the new leds were bright enough to show on my garage door in day light. Old leds didnt show at all.
Next i will be buying his brake leds. The reverse leds are philips with 12 year warranties.
As for Fogs, there is absolutely no question; you want Philips.
They have a fantastic PnP LED system that runs at a constant 9W with no fan (it'll make any "80W Cree" bulb look like garbage by comparison, since those bulbs with all there LED's only run at 7-5W depending on heat/quality... and their optics are completely off for usability)
Again as much as the "80W style" claims to be the brightest, this is a false claim.
they get their numbers by multiplying the theoretical maximum wattage of each LED, times the number of LEDs on the unit. aka 5W Cree XB-D's X 16 (That and 99% of these bulbs do NOT use full Cree construction, often replacing them with equivalents from cheeper manufactures)
IF you want something that'll truly be useful as a DRL, you'll want my 9005 20W Homogeneous-LED. These like the Philips, are designed to work properly with your existing reflector.
Test on a 2008 Civic
As a test, I went out and bought the highest quality "80W Cree" bulb i could find, Diode-Dynamics, which use the latest 2.45mm XB-D's all the way around. And while it was the best 80W design I've seen, their output was a sham compared to my 20W design (since the light is actually being focused correctly)
See example below (IL4Spec was a name I as going to use from my previous employer before I went independent)
The tricky thing is the small T10 size 921 bulbs used now as reverse lights simply don't have the punch the previous 1156's and 7440's had.
I've tried a "50W Cree" style 921 (2x front projector 8x on the sides) and all it does is flood the housing, not very useful.
The best ones i've seen are by Philips again.
Don't be confused by the single packaged Xtreme Visions as those are the international name, and sell for $25 each.
You want the 921 US variant (exact same wattage and color), as they sell for a pair @ the same price. 12 year life span and 3 year warranty; these are gold
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License plates
Since our twin plate lights stick out and have a the license plate 90° from the bulb, You'll want a design that features flat COB boards to fire directly downward.
I've looked into bringing in a similar COB design myself, but the current designs i've seen are too long to fit. The Morimotos are the shortest COB board currently on the market & are a perfect fit in tight spaces.
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Brake/Signal bulbs
Really depends on how much power you want.
Ive tested them against the Philips Vision LED bulbs and their output is over 2X as bright (Philips intentionally did this, since they wanted their bulbs to be = to the original brightness. Though I've seen in some housings this results in about a 33% reduction in output vs a halogen.) My bulbs run at over double the wattage to compensate for any differences in housing shape or if you had smoked tails.
Ive been testing these out on the HIDp forum for the last few months now, and the results are just electric. These stomp on everything i've seen to date as far as brightness and housing illumination as they incorporate both the highest quality 2.45mm Cree XB-D LEDs, as well as a proper design to utilize all that power correctly.
All these videos were done when the bulbs were still in their prototype stage, since my previous employer didn't believe in me when I told them they were some serious shit, I decided to bring my design and bulbs with me and go independent.
I'll be re-editing and changing the videos in the future to be posted on my own site.
As well, the 2013 ILX Endurance race car was running the same SC as OSU, the CT SC, but the new 2016 ILX Endurance race car is running a Rotrex SC by Jackson Racing.
Wassup crew, so I got LEDs for my DRLs but i didnt want to connect the resistor or whatever that little gold square is called, i wanted plug and ay like the fog lights, reverse, tags....I connected my DRL directly to output and they are on, but not sure what issues this will create, so i need help....what are the gold squares for and do i really need them? And if i do how do i install them? Do i have to cut cables? Thats would be a non no for me.....
Wassup crew, so I got LEDs for my DRLs but i didnt want to connect the resistor or whatever that little gold square is called, i wanted plug and ay like the fog lights, reverse, tags....I connected my DRL directly to output and they are on, but not sure what issues this will create, so i need help....what are the gold squares for and do i really need them? And if i do how do i install them? Do i have to cut cables? Thats would be a non no for me.....
Those resistors are designs to be plug and play. Are they just open wires or do the resistors each have a male and female plug?
It should have a male/female plug. You just attach the LED to one end of the resistor and the other into the car. Like an extension cord.
The point of a resisitor is to stop a couple things. One is hyper flashing. This is more often seen when replacing turn signals. The DRL does go from low to high beam so not sure what would happen there without resistors.
Second, a resistor will prevent a code from being thrown if the car doesnt detect the LED which is another often occurrence.
If neither of those issues are happening then I would assume you are fine to run them without resistors.
I have installed resistors with both my DRL and Fog upgrades. I would suggest the same as it isnt very hard. It's just like adding an extension cord to a light in your garage.
And what drls did you go with? Did you take thmanx advise?
No i didnt get anything from that post, probably got chinese shit they came in a paperback with plastic and they say kelvin, now that you mention hyperflashing with the naked eye they are fine but when i see it through a camera lense or my phones camera then i can see them flashing, weird shit, yeah the resistors i was bei g offered only had two wires so i didntbget thay shit after i saw they worked, do u have a link where i could get them with the male and femaler adaptor for our car?
No i didnt get anything from that post, probably got chinese shit they came in a paperback with plastic and they say kelvin, now that you mention hyperflashing with the naked eye they are fine but when i see it through a camera lense or my phones camera then i can see them flashing, weird shit, yeah the resistors i was bei g offered only had two wires so i didntbget thay shit after i saw they worked, do u have a link where i could get them with the male and femaler adaptor for our car?
I can pull you a link later.
Until then if you want to look it up just ebay search 9005 led resisitor. Theyll look like the pic i posted before. Probably around 20bucks for 2.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/9005-LED-DRL-Fog-Light-Canbus-50W-6Ohm-Load-Resistor-Wiring-Canceller-Decoder-/330940078458?hash=item4d0d90d97a&vxp=mtr
I clicked the first few. All seems to be shipping from cali for my search. But only 10 bucks for a pair and should be fast shipping still. I have these on my DRLs and fogs.
The flickering you see on your phone is not the same flickering these resistors stop. The flickering you see is only seen via recording electronics. My DRLs with resistors do the same thing when I try to take a pic of them.
Disregard the music but that video with the scion shows hyper flashing verse a relay/resistor to fix it.
You shouldnt have that issue as you arent replacing turn signals.
The issue you could see is an error code the car may throw. I cant say exactly as I dont know the proper terminology but from my understanding LEDs have less current flowing through them which can trick the car into thinking the bulb is out or not even there. The resistor or relay will cancel that error code if you see one.
If you dont see any missing light error codes being thrown on your dash then you probably dont even need resistors. Mine came with the DRLs I bought so I have them. When I buy new DRLs from Thmanx I plan to plug them into the resistors since I already have them in.
You are probably fine without them if you dont see an error code on your dash.
I clicked the first few. All seems to be shipping from cali for my search. But only 10 bucks for a pair and should be fast shipping still. I have these on my DRLs and fogs.
The flickering you see on your phone is not the same flickering these resistors stop. The flickering you see is only seen via recording electronics. My DRLs with resistors do the same thing when I try to take a pic of them.
Disregard the music but that video with the scion shows hyper flashing verse a relay/resistor to fix it.
You shouldnt have that issue as you arent replacing turn signals.
The issue you could see is an error code the car may throw. I cant say exactly as I dont know the proper terminology but from my understanding LEDs have less current flowing through them which can trick the car into thinking the bulb is out or not even there. The resistor or relay will cancel that error code if you see one.
If you dont see any missing light error codes being thrown on your dash then you probably dont even need resistors. Mine came with the DRLs I bought so I have them. When I buy new DRLs from Thmanx I plan to plug them into the resistors since I already have them in.
You are probably fine without them if you dont see an error code on your dash.
Thanks, I just ordered them to se if this actually makes a difference or not, I think the flashing i see through the camera should stop because with the fog leds i do not see any flashing going on so maybe? I will let you know as soon as i get them
hahahaha that was a visual description of something I have no clue what its called, anyways I installed the "gold squares" and this shit did nothing, maybe they will extend the life of the led bulb, but that I will never know but I guess the drl can just be installed directly to the power supply with no problems
I hope you mounted the gold squares to metal as they get SUPER HOT!
I installed LED switchback bulbs in my turn signals so they are white/blue when on but flash amber when you put the blinker on but I did not install the gold squares cuz I would have needed to take my bumper off but when I put my blinker on it flashes VERY fast compared to normal so thats why you need to install the gold squares lol.
I elected not to install mine FOR NOW cuz my car was JUST painted so I didnt wanna fuck around with fresh paint and my luck scratch something
LOL...who are you addressing Jon? Jeff is saying he got bad hyperflashing.
and @ the gold squares...you mean the resistors? I learned the hard way...those fkers get SUPER hot very very quickly...definitely put those on metal.
Jeff, for the TL...there's a thread on soldering a bypass on the lighting board to stop hyperflash without using individual resistors Mine has been going strong for YEARS.
LOL...who are you addressing Jon? Jeff is saying he got bad hyperflashing.
and @ the gold squares...you mean the resistors? I learned the hard way...those fkers get SUPER hot very very quickly...definitely put those on metal.
Jeff, for the TL...there's a thread on soldering a bypass on the lighting board to stop hyperflash without using individual resistors Mine has been going strong for YEARS.
Talking to ragd. He said the resistors did nothing for him. Not sure what he thought theyd do since i said he didnt have hyper flashing and he aaid he had no error codes.
Talking to ragd. He said the resistors did nothing for him. Not sure what he thought theyd do since i said he didnt have hyper flashing and he aaid he had no error codes.
Jon yes you did say i might not need them but for 10 bucks i just had to test it out, hahaha cant believe everything you read online, but thanks!
This car looks perfect. Loving those rims and the red caliper, im looking to do to same with the caliers, its sure does enhance the ilx appearance
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07-14-2015 | 07:34 AM
whalecum back 
