I've decided to refinish my childhood bedroom furniture in the hopes of giving it to my son when's he's out of the crib.

Its solid wood, I think Oak and an awful Natural color. I picked up a palm sander and was hopng to get some tips.

First, what grain of sandpaper should I be using to strip off the wood sealer/varnish.

I did a small peice last night and at this rate I'll be sanding well into the new year.

Once its sanded down what needs to be put on the wood before final finishing?

 

I think Dallison is doing this now......

<----No clue......

 

Is it stained? have you tried something like Formby's furniture refinisher before you use the sander.

What are your plans for the finish? Stain, polyeurothane, varnish, paint?

The last step before finishing should be to put on a coat of sanding sealer. If you're planning to stain it, it's a must.

 

No idea.


No, just starting sanding, although just a piece of the nightable.


No idea, I was hoping you gys could tell me. Definently not paint though.


Check

 

to strip i would prob use 60-100 grit. 60 will most likely mow right thru it.

AHH.... i am also using a palm sander, i wasnt sure if you were just using a sanding block.
its a regular dewalt the wife bought for me a couple years ago

i am using liquid stripper right now, very fawking toxic. if i get just a small speck on me it burns until i wash off the area.


my project required the stripper, since there were a few old coats on it, once the stripping material has done its job and is scraped off, i use paint thinner/mineral spirits to clean off the surface.
then i sand away.
like i said 60 grit works very well, so you don't sit there forever. i am almost done my dresser i started on sunday. but i worked all day, but i am sore as hell.
i am in no way an expert, just a beginner, but this stuff works for me.

any liquid stripper should work from any hardware store.

 

oh, if another child is going to be in the crib, i would find something that is somewhat kid safe, since another child may sleep in it

 

So do you absolutely have to use the liquid stripper? There's only 1 coat of stain or whatever it is on the furniture.

BTW - I think I started with 150 grit.

 

No I'm not refinishing the crib, its my old furniture. Bed, desk, nighttable and dresser w/Hutch.

The crib he's in now is brand new and will hopefully get passed to the next kid when its time.

 

depending on how thick the varnish is, its a tough choice

 

and don't forget protection

 

Looks like a big project, can't wait to see the finished pics.

I think a 60 grit will do the job. I'm down to the wood with 150, and alot of pressure.

So whats the difference between a Stain, polyeurothane and varnish?

 

the polyurethane will give it a glossy finish and will protect the wood, the stain will soak into the woodgrain, i guess varnish is an inbetween
i have used stain and poly before

 

Just went through your thread dallison, nice work.

So is polyurethane clear only? I presume it is.

 

i am almost posotive it is

 

Poly and varnish are similar - they both put a protective coat on the wood surface. Varnish tends to have more of a "amber" to it which means it darkens a bit on application. Poly is way easier to work with and is more forgiving to a beginner. Stain is used to change the color of the wood. Poly is the protective coating and gloss. There are poly products out there that are also known as a "one-step" - that is poly and tint. You put one coat on and it comes in colors - looks cheap imho.

If you like a not too glossy finish (hand rubbed look) that retains some of the surface texture of the grain, try a wipe-on poly. Really easy to put on, but requires more coats. Although, I am not sure, but the wipe-on products may not be as durable, thus not appropriate for kids furniture.

 

Thanks. Definently looking to change the color of the wood so stain it is.

So the process is Stain --> Sanding Sealer? or should something go on before the Stain?

 

Use 60 to take off the stain, then 100 or 150 to smooth it out. I have a orbital and square palm sander. The orbital is much faster to stripping.

dallison, that paint stripper is nasty, I've used it to strip off caliper paint. Burns like hell when it gets on you.

 

Honestly I have never used sanding sealer - but it does go on after stain, before topcoat. It is optional.

If the wood is soft you might want to use a wood conditioner to help even staining. I used conditioner on a oak refinish project to even things out. It is not necessary for hard oak though - but I think it made the look a little richer.

A suggestion, follow up each sanding step for each grit with a hand rub with the same grit paper. A random orbit sander will often cause swirls with grit that gets loose from the paper. Those swirls usually do not show up until the topcoat. Personal experience not doing that leaves me frustrated everytime I look close at my china cabinet...