Started demo on my future bedroom
Started demo on my future bedroom
this was an extra bedroom that we used to rent out... the previous occupant had a few birds and the smell just got into the carpet... it is over 10 yrs old anyways... but planning on putting up new sheet rock and laying down hardwood floors... but here are a few before pics...
there was some very old panels that i had to strip


under the panels were just sheetrock


on the front wall which is the front of the house was some very old insulation that cracked where ever i would touch it... so old and brittle..

after 7 hrs of work... my back hurts...






tomorrow after i get home from work.. the plan is to run the electrical for 2 more outlets and a ceiling fan... this room did not originally have a light so i decided to also put in a fan... more pics as i complete more...
there was some very old panels that i had to strip


under the panels were just sheetrock


on the front wall which is the front of the house was some very old insulation that cracked where ever i would touch it... so old and brittle..

after 7 hrs of work... my back hurts...






tomorrow after i get home from work.. the plan is to run the electrical for 2 more outlets and a ceiling fan... this room did not originally have a light so i decided to also put in a fan... more pics as i complete more...
Originally Posted by cTLgo
was that bird poop on the carpet 

in the pics, all that white on the carpet is from me ripping the sheetrock down... hope to get the bottom of the last wall down tonight after work... the baseboard heat is in front of it and the builder used nails instead of screws to secure it in place... so it is a bitch to remove..
hope to run the electrical tonight...
started pricing out a nailer for the floor.. anyone have any recommendations???
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Do you have a harborfreight or cummingstool near you?
www.harborfreight.com
www.cumminstools.com
I bought my finishing nailer from harborfrieght for $8 my framing nailer for $80. Both work excellent.
I have a 30 gallon upright (claimed 6hp) craftsmans air compressor. It too works good, but you can save some $$ and get one at one of the mentioned shops above.
Also, if you honestly plan on running a 3/4" or 1/2" air gun, air cutters, air ratchet or dye grinder. Get at least a 20 gallon tank for your compressor. A compressor any smaller will be about worthless for any real automotive use....
Now you can use a small compressor for air nailers. They don't use a lot of CFMs.
www.harborfreight.com
www.cumminstools.com
I bought my finishing nailer from harborfrieght for $8 my framing nailer for $80. Both work excellent.
I have a 30 gallon upright (claimed 6hp) craftsmans air compressor. It too works good, but you can save some $$ and get one at one of the mentioned shops above.
Also, if you honestly plan on running a 3/4" or 1/2" air gun, air cutters, air ratchet or dye grinder. Get at least a 20 gallon tank for your compressor. A compressor any smaller will be about worthless for any real automotive use....
Now you can use a small compressor for air nailers. They don't use a lot of CFMs.
just a quick update...
so i got home yest and worked some more on the room... ran the electrical for an extra outlet and cut a hole in the ceiling for the ceiling fan...
but goddamn the builder did now understand the concept of 16" OC... some of the beams are 17" apart, i have one that was 18.5" and every little variance in between... i will take pics of the disaster tonight...
so i got home yest and worked some more on the room... ran the electrical for an extra outlet and cut a hole in the ceiling for the ceiling fan...
but goddamn the builder did now understand the concept of 16" OC... some of the beams are 17" apart, i have one that was 18.5" and every little variance in between... i will take pics of the disaster tonight...
some recent pics...
put up the support for the ceiling and cut a hole for the ceiling fan...



this is what i was talking about with the studs not being evenly off center... my god it was a nightmare...

stripped the carpet... underneath the insulation was some laminate


fucking spots still got glue..

put up the first new sheetrock today... man i am outta shape... i used to be able to do it alone... i need to get back in the gym...


only half done for now... i am beat...



this is what i was talking about with the studs not being evenly off center... my god it was a nightmare...

stripped the carpet... underneath the insulation was some laminate


fucking spots still got glue..

put up the first new sheetrock today... man i am outta shape... i used to be able to do it alone... i need to get back in the gym...


only half done for now... i am beat...
Originally Posted by NSXNEXT
What is the electrical box for the ceiling fan connected to? Looks like it's just hanging from the sheetrock. 

At least I hope so!

Originally Posted by curls
My guess would be it's connected to the wood seen in this picture, right above the box and behind the cable:
At least I hope so!

At least I hope so!


i ain't a gambler to expect the sheetrock to hold up the ceiling fan... but that would prob be funny as hell...
a few updated pics... my back is still hurting...














still gotta sand and finish the floor... then paint and install the ceiling fan then the baseboard heat and trim... then finally done... my god my back is giving me the finger right now...
thanks all...
dave - i was thinking about finishing the floor first then laying town plastic and painting??? i thought that if i painted first, when i went to sand the floor, dust will be all over the walls??? can you tell me why i shouldn't go this route???
dave - i was thinking about finishing the floor first then laying town plastic and painting??? i thought that if i painted first, when i went to sand the floor, dust will be all over the walls??? can you tell me why i shouldn't go this route???
From what we are going to do in our house it takes a couple days after finishing the floors before you can walk on them. This may give you a good break from working, but if you painted before then you could just finish the floors and be done once they were done drying/cured/etc.
Also, in case something happened and you did get a spec of paint on the wood, it wouldn't matter since you were sanding them after you painted
Also, in case something happened and you did get a spec of paint on the wood, it wouldn't matter since you were sanding them after you painted
Ya, mainly for any paint splatters. You can rent a dustless sander, which will knock out a ton of the mess. But "dustless" still leaves a small film of dust behind. But it's nothing compared to the mess using a regular sander.
Plus you don't want to be walking on the floor much and moving equipment/crap around after you get them finished. It's usually best to leave the floor for last. I just put plastic up when I do floors... it's easy... and then you don't have to worry about the cleanup...
Also another thing I picked up along the way is find a good *water based* stain and top coat. Going with a oil based poly makes the area unlivable from the fumes and takes longer to dry. And find a *good* heavy sander... the ones they rent usually suck and leave marks on the floor.
There's some great water based stains/top coats now... like "last n last" and similar...
Plus you don't want to be walking on the floor much and moving equipment/crap around after you get them finished. It's usually best to leave the floor for last. I just put plastic up when I do floors... it's easy... and then you don't have to worry about the cleanup...
Also another thing I picked up along the way is find a good *water based* stain and top coat. Going with a oil based poly makes the area unlivable from the fumes and takes longer to dry. And find a *good* heavy sander... the ones they rent usually suck and leave marks on the floor.
There's some great water based stains/top coats now... like "last n last" and similar...
from what I understand about stain and paint is that if you get paint on an unsealed floor it is much more likely to "seep" into the wood making it much harder to sand out. Your best approach would be to do the floor first and be careful with drop cloths and such.
Originally Posted by The Dougler
from what I understand about stain and paint is that if you get paint on an unsealed floor it is much more likely to "seep" into the wood making it much harder to sand out. Your best approach would be to do the floor first and be careful with drop cloths and such.
Nah, never seen that happen with paint. He's going to take off at least 1/32" when he sands. But the floor should be covered well regardless if it's finished or not......
okay paint is up, ceiling fan installed... installed the rails for the closet doors and started to cut the mouldings...
may have to repaint a few sections since i didn't like how it looked... prob a bit more compounding will be needed... prob reinstall the baseboard shells tonight, paint the inside of the closet and fix those few sections of the walls...
may have to repaint a few sections since i didn't like how it looked... prob a bit more compounding will be needed... prob reinstall the baseboard shells tonight, paint the inside of the closet and fix those few sections of the walls...
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cak165
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Sep 16, 2015 08:17 PM






but i think i will buy the air compressor cause i can use it to work on my car too... anyone got any recommendations???

