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I just spent $60 and spent over an hour replacing the plugs on my 2011 TL SHAWD and decided to check the service manual after the fact and it says to use Denso plugs for the J37A4 engine. NGK is for the J35Z6 engine (FWD). So pissed right now. What is the difference in these plugs? The car runs great but I want to be using the correct parts
The Denso runs at a heat range of 22 while the NGK runs at 7. If the two manufacturers are using the same scale, then you are running too hot of spark plugs in your J37 with the NGK's. It looks like running a hotter spark plug runs the risk of pre-ignition, however I think our cars are smart enough to know when that's happening and will retard the timing. Otherwise, I'm sure you'd get a check engine light.
Thanks. I ended up ordering the correct Denso plugs and will install them tomorrow. I put the NGKs up on ebay if anyone is interested. Only two miles on them and a little anti-seize on the threads.
Anyone know what would cause the white residue on the ends of my coil packs? The front three are the worst.
Also, this website states them both as cross referenced to each other. DENSO SXU22HCR11 - Alternative spark plugs
Why Acura stated different plugs for the two engines is puzzling.
Also, NGK states NOT to use anti seize on plated threads.
I'm fairly certain both of these plugs have plated threads.
Acura needs to take this our of their service manual.
J-series loves the NGK from my experience vs the Denso's for whatever reason. Denso's loose efficiency after 60K miles where the NGK's last easily till 105K.
Thanks. I ended up ordering the correct Denso plugs and will install them tomorrow. I put the NGKs up on ebay if anyone is interested. Only two miles on them and a little anti-seize on the threads.
Anyone know what would cause the white residue on the ends of my coil packs? The front three are the worst.
The white residue may be from the white ceramic insulator on the spark plugs.
Hmmm, okay. Well I guess I'll keep the Densos. Should I remove the anti-seize? I torqued the plugs to 16 ft-lbs, but now I'm concerned they may actually be torqued more than that (up to 20% more according to NGK). 16 ft-lbs is so little that I should probably just snug them up with a ratchet and that's it.
Curious as to why only the front three coil packs have the white residue though with the front left being the worst. The previous owner experienced some issues and to replace a few failing coil packs. I'm wondering if maybe the front three are the originals and aren't making good contact. I remember the back three coils feeling springy when I reinstalled them last night, but the front three did not. I checked the coils' primary and secondary coil resistances two weeks ago and everything checked out (meaning consistent to one another--still have yet to find resistance specs). I noticed some white residue at that time and wiped it off.
I just checked my owners manual and it lists both the Denso and NGK plugs for the J37A4 engine. The 2WD model gets the ILZKR7B11 and the AWD model gets the ILZKR7B-11S. This puts me at ease.
Last edited by EE4Life; 08-20-2016 at 08:59 AM.
Reason: Corrected NGK part number from ILZKR7B11S to ILZKR7B-11S
I was looking over the service records left in the glovebox by the previous owner and coil number four was replaced due to misfiring. This happens to be the coil with the most white residue on it. Coincidence?
If you used a torque wrench with the correct setting you're probably okay. But if you're concerned there's only one way to be sure. I don't use a torque wrench for plugs and never had a problem. I could be over torquing by 20%. I think the main issue for for me and the use of anti seize is ... getting them out after the next 100K miles. It is a PITA. You have to go real slow and it feels like the treads are galled, but they're not.
Thanks. I ended up ordering the correct Denso plug...
Anyone know what would cause the white residue on the ends of my coil packs? The front three are the worst.
It's "Boot Grease." Keeps the rubber ends of the coil packs from sticking to the plug insulator and tearing when you remove them. If you don't plan on keeping the car till the next plug change you don't need it. If you will be changing the plugs again you should use BG on the bottom of the coil. It can be found in small single-use packs at your local auto parts store.
It's not grease, it's a powdering substance. And I wiped it off two weeks ago when I was checking the coil resistance and it came back. I suppose there could be some residue remaining in the spark plug hole.
Also, NGK states NOT to use anti seize on plated threads.
I'm fairly certain both of these plugs have plated threads.
Acura needs to take this our of their service manual.
I know it an old thread, but let me help clear a few things for everyone. Honda engines, uses nothing but Denso on their emission eqipment. From your throttle like IAC, to spark plug, O2 sensors are all Denso. Denso and NGK have different heat range, the number are not for comparision. if you measure the ends of the plug. They will have different length. Denso should be the shorter in length. You will be fine using NGK but I recommend getting the right heat range.. If the plug is too long, therefore ignition will occur after fuel have been injected and result in extended combustion and overtime will leave a black residual on spark plug tip. Mostlikely will cause misfire where you ended up replace everything u can think off except the valve and piston inside that is now out of clearance and causing misfire. When install sparkplug, using DieElectric grease on the white section of the plug will prevent current from leaking out of the coils. Keeps the coil last longer, and will not harden up and break. It will also keep the spark ceramic section from breaking due to beign expose to high temp. When it break inside the engine. Have fun removing it.. Even better when it on the rear cylinder head. I recommend you use Denso, since all your emmision components are using it. Conformity goes along way when you troubleshooting.
It's not grease, it's a powdering substance. And I wiped it off two weeks ago when I was checking the coil resistance and it came back. I suppose there could be some residue remaining in the spark plug hole.
powder is oxidation! Clean it off with vinegar and water and give a good scrub to all the contacts. Be sure to use dielectric great and seal up everything nice and well. Corrosion on the contacts can cause some improper current flow and lead to issues.
I have tried all 3 of 4 plugs available for the TL-shawd - Personally I like NGK performance plugs the best.
Spark plugs (Long life) OEM
NGK ILZKR7B-11S (5787) 0.044in Gap
Denso SXU22HCR11S (3461) 0.044in Gap
Performance Options
NGK IX LKR7DIX-11S (93175) 0.044in Gap (0.6 Fine Wire) -Available in Canada however not USA yet. (.clubplug.ca shipped to USA for me)
Denso Power IXUH22I (5356) 0.036in Gap (0.4 Ultra fine wire)
Ignition system Spark plugs 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m, 16 lbf.ft)
Just some info - strangely I have tested all of these minus NGK LL (my car had Denso plugs from the factory)- Personally really like NGK IX. Not saying you should or should not, it is your car.
I have a 2012 TL and replaced the plugs myself. I ended up going with ILZKR7B11 plug from NKG which I thought was OEM.
once I pulled out the old ones I noticed they are DILZKR7A11G by NKG. I put the ones I bought it in and it seems to run just fine.
After some research I see that only the 2012-2014 use the DILZKR7A11G and most of the other 3.5’s use the ILZKR7B11...
There is another plug listed NGK LKR7AHX-S - NGK Spark Plug - Ruthenium HX - testing them out as soon as they arrive and the weather plays nice. Iridium plugs are now old new as Platinum before it, now we are up to Ruthenium.
There is another plug listed NGK LKR7AHX-S - NGK Spark Plug - Ruthenium HX - testing them out as soon as they arrive and the weather plays nice. Iridium plugs are now old new as Platinum before it, now we are up to Ruthenium.
Faster ignition and longer durability. Ruthenium HX
Some of the tag lines.
NGK Ruthenium HX™ provides more complete fuel burn than other precious metal spark plugs. The results are quicker throttle response, smoother idle and better cold starts.
NGK’s patented Ruthenium technology is available in our most advanced OEM designs to provide the most optimal durability at high temperatures in various driving conditions.
I can't decide what is best for your vehicle. It is up to you. But i will provide some facts from my trial and errors and what Honda Manual recommend.
First. All J- series are 0.44 gap. The difference are what called "heat range" which is the length where the electro or the tip of the plug are inside engine. A cold heat range are longer on the threaded end, and shorter for a high heat range engine. Lawnmower sparks are an example of a cold heat range sparks. So a spark on j-35 will and should be slightly shorter compare to j.37 with same gap. Fuel nozzle are fixed at the engine. So it spray at same spot every time. Ur spark plug are not, it can be adjusted adjusting the type to hotter or colder. Due to j37 require more travel time for piston to conplete it cycle. It require longer "colder" sparks to ignite efficiently. Ur sparks ignites everytime the cylinder at TDC. So shorter spark will more likely cuasd higher mpg since ur ecu will mostlikely keep it open longer for comprssion to occur. If the piston doesn't move, and ur crank sensor doesn't pickup it signal. That fuel nozzle stay open. U wont see the after effects other than mpg, but down the stretch it will get misfire more frequent. And ur spark are going to have a reisduel mark when u replace it. U can tell an engine performance by the sign that the old spark plug are giving.
black= oil leaks
bent tip= wrong application, mostlike contact with internal.
The service manual which u can get on Acurazine will have more details in emissions sections.
aside from Sparkplugs. Every single emission component on Honda are Denso parts. 02, map, TKP etc.. In my opinion it makes no sense to have ur spark from different manufacturers. If were to use aftermarket, i would just settle for the over price sparks at autozone, or get a chinese brand on ebay. And looking at people passing by on the road.
With Denso, unless it starting to show sign of wear. U shouldn't have to spent money on a new set ever. The one on my car are still same gap and in good shape from the time i made the switch 4 years ago. I check on it annually around this time of year. Yes it seem expensive. But u only paying once. Compare to slightly cheaper and doing it more than once.
And for your info. My car MPG is running at 23mpg. That about 5 higher than it desgin.
To do the test. On the dash, activate "Trip A reset with refuel" and visit the pump at half mark and take note of the mileage and compare it with each other NGK and Denso.
My result had Denso winning by 75mi. That another way to test the theory to help ur decision.
I drove the 12th anniversary 4th gen TL ShAWD w advance package. On 18" wheels instead of 19. And it packed with the RL J37A4 engine which is only available on 2012. Others models are either J37A1 or A3 on RDX. It 12 for 12 celerbration.
There is another plug listed NGK LKR7AHX-S - NGK Spark Plug - Ruthenium HX - testing them out as soon as they arrive and the weather plays nice. Iridium plugs are now old new as Platinum before it, now we are up to Ruthenium.
Let us know what you think of them and if its a difference between the OEM NGK iridium ones. I'm going to replace the ones on my '12 TL SH-AWD soon and I'm looking at the options.
I am suspicious of NGK's use of producing and marketing a spark plug with a Ruthenium electrode.
The NGK website doesn't specify why Ruthenium is a better material.
Most Iridium material parameters considered important for a spark plug electrode are better than Ruthenium.
Iridium:
Hardness is 60% better. (erosion resistance)
Melting point is 200°F+ better (4,429°F vs 4,190°F)
Thermal Conductivity is 26% better
Electrical Resistivity is 41% lower (better)
Possibly it's cheaper or easier to manufacture but that doesn't make it a superior performing spark plug.
I don't recall ever removing an Iridium electrode spark plug and considering it to be worn ... even after 130,000 miles.
Therefore the durability of Iridium is more that adequate.
I am an engineer but I don't design spark plugs for a living.
Ruthenium could be a better performing material but NGK isn't telling us why and the material parameters don't support it.
Some of the info posted here is nonsense. Fake news!!!! Don't believe everything "some guy on the internet" tells you.
The spark plug provide a spark. That's all it does.
Some of the info posted here is nonsense. Fake news!!!! Don't believe everything "some guy on the internet" tells you.
The spark plug provide a spark. That's all it does.
Some things make a difference like electrode gap and the insulator tip length ("hotter" and "colder" plugs).
But yeah, assuming those variables are the same, the exact material of the electrode may not be as important. I believe this engine can use platinum or iridium plugs. I'd bet NGK has a copper plug that would work fine as well, though I don't think there's any copper plug indicated in the owners manual.
But if you put a Champion spark plug in there that was built for a 1979 Camaro, it's not going to work so well.
Some of the info posted here is nonsense. Fake news!!!! Don't believe everything "some guy on the internet" tells you.
The spark plug provide a spark. That's all it does.
OK how's this? "Some guy" above claims that a different fancy Ruthenium plug will give better throttle response. Baloney.
Another poster claims substantially better gas mileage with a different brand of plugs. Nonsense,
OK how's this? "Some guy" above claims that a different fancy Ruthenium plug will give better throttle response. Baloney.
Another poster claims substantially better gas mileage with a different brand of plugs. Nonsense,
I agree, this post has become useless as it contains so much contradicting and incorrect information.
OK how's this? "Some guy" above claims that a different fancy Ruthenium plug will give better throttle response. Baloney.
Another poster claims substantially better gas mileage with a different brand of plugs. Nonsense,
I would agree, assuming the specs are the same. For example, if the plug has the same dimensional specs such as insulator length and electrode gap, it should be fine. I certainly wouldn't spend the extra $$$ for the Ruthenium if the only difference between it and the Iridium is the composition of the tip material. I don't buy into the claim that it would provide a more complete burn or something like that. The efficiency and effectiveness of the combustion process is going to be influenced a lot more by other engine health factors - valve/piston ring conditions, compression, A/F ratio, fuel quality, fuel injector operation, timing, etc. While there's more to a spark plug that "a spark is just a spark", as long as the plug meets the specs indicated by the manufacturer, buying something with a different electrode material probably isn't going to make a difference.
It would be interesting to see a comparison between copper, platinum, iridium and this new ruthenium. Same engine and conditions, running a dyno to see if there's a hp/tq difference. And if possible, run some sort of test to determine if fuel efficiency is any better. I doubt there's be much of a difference.
08-19-2016, 07:31 PM
